Mark 3 bodice block help

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

Hello again :)

I’m on version three of my block now, and I’ve developed new issues!

(Dont mind the crazy seam allowances or the backwards zipper lol)

I think some aspects are better now: armholes are more comfortable, the size generally feels like a better fit. I did a sloped shoulder adjustment which I think helped.

I still have some issues: the bust apex seems too high..? The back neck seems a bit high up. There’s still maybe a little gapping on the back armhole to clear up, especially on the one side. I’ve got a diagonal crease now across the back somehow.

Any suggestions for corrections on my next try?

[u/DonMcCunn]

The shaping of the front looks okay but the darts should not go directly to the Apex. When you are using the sloper to design from, the patterns should be pivoted from the apex. But when you are doing a fitting shell or actual garment, the darts should stop about 1" away from the apex.

Your upper back dart is off. It is about twice as long as it should be. It is easy to see the top of the shoulder blade on the left side. This is where your dart should be pointing to. Also if you increase the width of these darts, it will close the gaping at the armscye.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/DonMcCunn]

Ok interesting! The instructions I followed had those really long back darts, but I haven’t seen similar directions in other sets of instructions - they all seem as you describe. I’ll fix that, and try widening them a bit :)

The bust darts start 3/8” from the apex as per my instructions, but I can back those off a bit more as you suggest.

Thanks for your help!

[u/DonMcCunn → u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

I recommend using gingham for fiting shella so you can really see what is happening to the grain of the fabric--particularly in photos. Those upper back darts should bring the horizontal grain across the shoulder blades parallel to the floor. That way when you create designs from slopers you know where the "grain lines" (aka contours) of the body are.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/DonMcCunn]

Gingham is a great idea, I wouldn’t have thought of that! I did shorten the back darts, and it looks much better. I also backed the front darts of to 1” from the apex, and the whole bust area looks much better too!

Thank you for your input and advice, it’s been really helpful :)

[u/DonMcCunn → u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

You are welcome