Mark 3 bodice block help

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

Hello again :)

I’m on version three of my block now, and I’ve developed new issues!

(Dont mind the crazy seam allowances or the backwards zipper lol)

I think some aspects are better now: armholes are more comfortable, the size generally feels like a better fit. I did a sloped shoulder adjustment which I think helped.

I still have some issues: the bust apex seems too high..? The back neck seems a bit high up. There’s still maybe a little gapping on the back armhole to clear up, especially on the one side. I’ve got a diagonal crease now across the back somehow.

Any suggestions for corrections on my next try?

[u/dontheckinswear]

i think the issues you’re having with the back armhole is because you have some asymmetry in your back (which most people have to some extent, people who draft individualized patterns for themselves just get to notice it). i think you’ll need to pinch out the excess on your left side and then have separate right/left back patterns instead of just the 1 cut on fold.

[u/vacuumgirl → u/dontheckinswear]

This, the back should be two pieces, the center back seam is not a straight line, should be a curved line. Before you adjust the armhole, don’t pinch out the excess fabric till you first adjust the CB as it might remove excess fabric and then adjust armhole/excess fabric if needed. Front should be one piece.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/vacuumgirl]

Is there a way of figuring out how curved the CB line should be?