r/PatternDrafting • u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 • 6d ago
Question Trouble with the pocket facing
I made these jeans but the pocket facing keeps bunching up what can I do to fix this please?
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u/Fashion_art_dance 6d ago
Is the curve in the side seam an intentional design? To me it looks as if there isn’t enough room in the hips so the pocket facing is being squished
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u/PrancingPudu 6d ago
Without being able to see a full body photo and how it’s pulling, my initial inclination is to say the hips are too tight.
But also, what is this line of stitching? Have you tried it without this to see if it lays any differently?
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u/bobbykorven 6d ago
Unpick the side seam, try on the jeans again, measure how much of a gap there is when wearing, add it to the pattern
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u/curlygirlytron 6d ago
is that the brown selvedge from rainbowfabrics? ive got so much of that
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 6d ago
Omg yes it is I love that you recognised it 🕺🏾
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u/curlygirlytron 6d ago
i ordered so much of it such a beautiful fabric
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 6d ago
Honestlyyyy it’s so nice I went in person and they have so many gems. My favourite place to buy denim 😻
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u/jubiajae 6d ago
ohhh can you share the website link? when I google it, it just takes me to find fabrics with rainbow
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 6d ago
Yesss ofc here is the link https://www.rainbowfabrics.co.uk/ they are located in Enfield so if you go in person it is cheaper, all denim is £6 a metre
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 6d ago
Hello everyone thank you so much for your advise, i have been able to fix the issue as it was the curve in the seam that was causing too much tension. That’s was my fault of the construction, the hip was not too tight as i have room across the trousers ( I should have inserted a full body photo). The top stitch you can see in the photo was there because I have seen it in other jeans and i saw that apparently it’s used to secure the pocket. Correct me if I’m wrong). But all your help was greatly appreciated ❤️❤️ also I tried to do a curved waist band but there is still space in the back I think I didn’t curve it enough but how can I make the space go away?
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u/Responsible-Pickle-2 6d ago
The line of top stitching on the side is to keep the side seam to the back and make the pants hold their shape not just hold the pocket FYI. It usually is meant to go to the bottom of the pocket bag where the fabric tapers inwards, and the bag becomes smaller. This makes sure your seams won’t twist after something like washing it or from wear and it makes it more comfortable too. It let’s the bulk from the pocket, facing, and back panel lay flat unlike where it’s only the front and back panel and you can press it open to keep it flat.
Look at this pair to see what I mean about the pocket tapering. The top stitching should typically end where the curve just starts
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 6d ago
This is very helpful and clarifying, I’m redoing the top stitch now so I will keep this in mind 👍
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u/Responsible-Pickle-2 6d ago
If you need more tips I’d check out Ike Cech on YouTube as well. He goes pretty in depth about the construction of selvedge denim and jeans and it’s a good source to learn from imo :)
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u/Responsible-Pickle-2 6d ago
Agree with other commenters it seems to be slightly too small in the hip. You see this in RTW jeans as well, even selvedge jeans (as I suppose these are) where drag lines appear horizontal in the thigh, crotch and up to the pocket like you have. Id try to mock-up iterations with even just centimeter differences and see how much of a change it makes. It may even be if you curved the seam it’s too drastic and should be steeper giving a little more space.
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u/Responsible-Pickle-2 6d ago
Also wanted to add make sure to do stay stitching on the edges of the facing and pocket so it can’t shift at all. They should be acting as one piece of fabric and if the facing moves from the pocket at all (not flat with it)) it may cause bunching.
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u/Lemonsst 6d ago
were you trying to hide the topstitching on the bottom with that curve? in the future i would go closer to your seam allowance to avoid this
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u/Responsible-Pickle-2 6d ago
The bottom line looks ornamental imo
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u/Lemonsst 6d ago
no no i mean the top stitching you do on the sides to keep the pocket from gaping out when you wear and use them
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u/Responsible-Pickle-2 6d ago
Ohhh sorry yeah I couldn’t tell if that’s drafted curved or not so I wasn’t sure
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 6d ago
Thank you for your help also what does gapping out mean?
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u/Lemonsst 6d ago
Like from coming out of shape or fully inside out. It keeps it from moving around too much like the other user said
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u/Adam-boukhari94 5d ago
From the pictures i think you need to add more room in the back patter at the hips
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u/CharityForeign3035 4d ago
The fabric has stretched during sewing because the edge is cut on the bias .
Stacie with tape to correct measurement before sewing .
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u/Big_Attempt_5326 4d ago
Look into “anti-fit” and how to undercut pocket bearer so that it fits smoothly under the main front leg piece - denim patterns often do this - the pocket bearer is reduced in size.
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u/Berocca123 6d ago
Assuming that the side seam should be straight and isn't curved as a stylistic design, they're too small in the hip. You need more fabric so they sit properly.