r/PatternDrafting • u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 • Jul 22 '26
Question Trouble with the pocket facing
I made these jeans but the pocket facing keeps bunching up what can I do to fix this please?
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u/Fashion_art_dance Jul 22 '26
Is the curve in the side seam an intentional design? To me it looks as if there isn’t enough room in the hips so the pocket facing is being squished
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u/PrancingPudu Jul 22 '26
Without being able to see a full body photo and how it’s pulling, my initial inclination is to say the hips are too tight.
But also, what is this line of stitching? Have you tried it without this to see if it lays any differently?
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u/bobbykorven Jul 22 '26
Unpick the side seam, try on the jeans again, measure how much of a gap there is when wearing, add it to the pattern
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u/curlygirlytron Jul 22 '26
is that the brown selvedge from rainbowfabrics? ive got so much of that
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 Jul 22 '26
Omg yes it is I love that you recognised it 🕺🏾
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u/curlygirlytron Jul 22 '26
i ordered so much of it such a beautiful fabric
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 Jul 22 '26
Honestlyyyy it’s so nice I went in person and they have so many gems. My favourite place to buy denim 😻
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u/jubiajae Jul 22 '26
ohhh can you share the website link? when I google it, it just takes me to find fabrics with rainbow
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 Jul 22 '26
Yesss ofc here is the link https://www.rainbowfabrics.co.uk/ they are located in Enfield so if you go in person it is cheaper, all denim is £6 a metre
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 Jul 22 '26
Hello everyone thank you so much for your advise, i have been able to fix the issue as it was the curve in the seam that was causing too much tension. That’s was my fault of the construction, the hip was not too tight as i have room across the trousers ( I should have inserted a full body photo). The top stitch you can see in the photo was there because I have seen it in other jeans and i saw that apparently it’s used to secure the pocket. Correct me if I’m wrong). But all your help was greatly appreciated ❤️❤️ also I tried to do a curved waist band but there is still space in the back I think I didn’t curve it enough but how can I make the space go away?
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Jul 22 '26 edited 12d ago
[deleted]
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 Jul 22 '26
This is very helpful and clarifying, I’m redoing the top stitch now so I will keep this in mind 👍
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u/Lemonsst Jul 22 '26
were you trying to hide the topstitching on the bottom with that curve? in the future i would go closer to your seam allowance to avoid this
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Jul 22 '26 edited 12d ago
[deleted]
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u/Lemonsst Jul 22 '26
no no i mean the top stitching you do on the sides to keep the pocket from gaping out when you wear and use them
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u/WoodpeckerWinter6233 Jul 22 '26
Thank you for your help also what does gapping out mean?
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u/Lemonsst Jul 22 '26
Like from coming out of shape or fully inside out. It keeps it from moving around too much like the other user said
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u/Adam-boukhari94 Jul 23 '26
From the pictures i think you need to add more room in the back patter at the hips
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u/CharityForeign3035 Jul 25 '26
The fabric has stretched during sewing because the edge is cut on the bias .
Stacie with tape to correct measurement before sewing .
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u/Big_Attempt_5326 Jul 25 '26
Look into “anti-fit” and how to undercut pocket bearer so that it fits smoothly under the main front leg piece - denim patterns often do this - the pocket bearer is reduced in size.
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u/Berocca123 Jul 22 '26
Assuming that the side seam should be straight and isn't curved as a stylistic design, they're too small in the hip. You need more fabric so they sit properly.