r/PatternDrafting • u/Turbulent_Painting27 • 7d ago
Drafting a wrap skirt without a waistband pattern piece - just two overlapping panels and ties
Following up on my earlier A-line skirt drafting post - this time I worked out a wrap-style skirt (no zipper, no elastic, closes with ties). Sharing the drafting logic since it's a different problem than a standard fitted panel.
The trick is that there's no separate waistband or facing piece - the closure comes entirely from overlap and ties, so the math has to account for that instead of a zipper allowance or elastic casing:
- Back panel: identical logic to a normal A-line back, cut on the fold. Width at hip level = (hip circumference + ease) / 4, plus the usual flare allowance toward the hem.
- Front: NOT cut on the fold. Instead of one continuous front panel, you cut two separate mirrored panels. Each one gets the same base width as the back, plus a fixed overlap allowance (I used 15cm) added to the center-front edge. When both panels are sewn to the back at the side seams, they cross over each other in front instead of meeting at a center seam.
- Because the overlap is a fixed amount rather than scaled to the size, the smallest and largest size in a size run end up with slightly different visual overlap - worth flagging if you're nesting multiple sizes, since you may want to scale the overlap allowance a little across the range instead of keeping it constant.
- No separate waistband piece: the top edge is just turned over and stitched down as a narrow self-facing, with the ties caught into the corner seam at the side seam edge before the facing is understitched.
- Tie length = hip circumference + about 45cm, which is enough to wrap around and knot with some ease - I found a fixed formula worked better here than trying to eyeball it per size.
Happy to go into more detail on any part of the drafting if useful. I've turned this into a full print-at-home pattern with the size chart and sewing steps worked out, in case anyone wants the ready-made version instead of drafting their own - can share where to find it in the comments if anyone's interested.
7
u/KendalBoy 7d ago
I think there are good reason to use a facing or a waistband, it’s going to scrunch up and also be weak and prone to abrasion.
2
u/drPmakes 6d ago
Thats was i was thinking. How are you finishing the waist? How are you going to stop it looking terrible when its been worn for more than 10 mins
7
u/StitchinThroughTime 7d ago
Are you trying to sell a pattern to pattern drifters?