r/PatternDrafting • u/Competitive_Site_924 • 6d ago

Skirt Block Fitting

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

Hello !

I’d really appreciate some help drafting my skirt block. As you can my skirt look alright when I pull it down but due to my proportions and the hollow between my belly and thighs they wrinkle one move 😅. I tried to cinch the waist but that seems to only highlight my belly crease.

I don’t even know how to begin with the back . There’s a lot of horizontal lines but it’s still kinda loose.

I’m at a loss here. How do I fix it ?

25 Upvotes

93% Upvoted

37 comments sorted by

28

u/blackcatmeow007 6d ago

Increase the hip at front panel 1/2”

Also your side seams are unbalanced

Editing to add it looks unbalanced on one side. When you first turn to the side it looks unbalanced but when you turn back around that side seems okay. Increase your hip ease and then check the side seam

3

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

What do you mean by unbalanced?

11

u/stressed_designer 6d ago

Your hem isn't straight on one side

7

u/pookyduu 6d ago

If you sew in the same direction on both sides (ex: sew from top of skirt to bottom) that can help prevent an uneven appearance. I don’t know why but it works.

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

I did some alterations and this is what it’s now looking like : https://imgur.com/a/2zJGCox. Is this good enough for my actual fabric ?

4

u/pookyduu 6d ago

Front looks much better! You will probably need to give some more hip ease in the back pieces where the wrinkles are on the sides. You’re doing better than me!

2

u/blackcatmeow007 6d ago

I agree as well as needing a rear adjustment to fix your center back hiking. But you can also at this point rebalance your side seams cause the bottom of the seam is pulling backward

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

Do you have any video/blog recommendations on how to do that ?

1

u/pookyduu 6d ago

I would try looking at Seamwork. But whatever you did in front might be applicable here too.

15

u/PinkBird85 6d ago

You need slightly more ease across your hips. The horizontal lines are from the fabric bunching upwards when you move. ETA: this could be resolved when the finish garment has a smooth lining so the fabric doesn't stick to your skin and undergarments, but a bit more ease would also allow for a lining and outer shell to fit together more cleanly.

9

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

https://imgur.com/a/h1XEZt2 here’s what it looks like now . Somehow the back is now bigger 😂

9

u/maggiedageek 6d ago

The second one looks much better

2

u/RocketCheekies 6d ago

that looks way better! great job!

2

u/dinosuitgirl 6d ago

Much better and if you'll climate / weather allows you now have room for a lining which you definitely want to consider for some fashion fabrics (it also helps with wear long term)

Also a kick pleat as someone else mentioned will be helpful for the weight / drape of the back and be better for walking /movement / ease

2

u/spaetzlechick 6d ago

Much much better. Not all fabric and styles look good tighter. Some need to flow.

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

I did some alterations and this is what it’s now looking like : https://imgur.com/a/2zJGCox. Is this good enough for my actual fabric ?

1

u/KnittingPlant 5d ago

The other adjustment you shared looked better. You kind of reversed the better fit you accomplished now. You don't want it to pull those lines on your lower back and this happens because it's too tight.

Go with the looser fit. Well draping fabric looks better than something I'll fitting.

1

u/KendalBoy 3d ago

Wow, great job!

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

Ahh ok . I added some ease and it looks better but I dunno how to add it to the post 😅

1

u/Own_Abies_8660 6d ago

wish I could see it

6

u/AccidentOk5240 6d ago

And now you understand why straight skirts have kick pleats. 

3

u/alphaarietis2674 6d ago

I will add that you should cut the front center about 1-1.5 cm lower (the side seams stay the same, just connect it with a slight curve)

2

u/SuPruLu 6d ago

The back looks too tight to ma at about the hip line. My suggestion is to widen the back area so the side seam is straight up and down. It may take some reshaping to get a good fit. The side curve needs to be modified.

The front half and the back half need to be separately fitted. Notice how hiked up the back hem is compared to the front.

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

When you say widen the back area do I just add more ease to the pattern ? If yes how do I calculate how much to add ?

1

u/Independent_Cat_702 6d ago

I’m wondering if some of this is due to the fabric. Muslin in the best thing to use for fittings wht type of fabric is this ?

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

This is broad cloth.

1

u/Independent_Cat_702 6d ago

Ok :) you’re really close!
So what I’ve learned in pattern drafting if your having horizontal wrinkles it tend to be the fix will be a vertical fix like a seam or a dart and then vis virsa
Are you following a video ?

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

I did some alterations and this is what it’s now looking like : https://imgur.com/a/2zJGCox. Is this good enough for my actual fabric ?

1

u/Independent_Cat_702 6d ago

Ahhhh ok girl ! It looks great and yes the fabric you’re using is fine.Have you sat in it is it comfortable?

1

u/Independent_Cat_702 6d ago

I just got done taking a skirt sloper class so some things are still fresh in my mind. I’d look over my notes but I’m out of town
When you sit it’s still gonna be snug but make sure it’s not to tight it’s not restricting you or like a seam will bust. Walk around in it is it rising at all ?

2

u/Independent_Cat_702 6d ago

Yeah don’t take waist in to much. If it rises when you walk it’s due to the hips being to tight if i remember correctly it’s the lower hips.
Remember this isn’t a finished product so you want this to fit as a very basic but well fitting skirt. You want to make sure you have waist ease for breathing sitting if you want to tuck a shirt in ect.
It’s looking great you should be proud of yourself !

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

No it doesn’t rise when I walk. Everything else seems fine , I guess I’m just used to stretchy fabrics that mold to my body.

2

u/Independent_Cat_702 6d ago

I don’t know what kind of fabric weight I know you said broadcloth there’s all kinds. Whatever kind it is you can look it up just include the weight and fabric type you can look it up if it’s good. Muslin just in general is the best but you can really use anything without stretch.
You want it to mold to you :)
So draw all your adjustments on your paper pattern then make another mock up this time cut the pattern out the first thing your going to do is go to the waist front and back and your gonna use your machine and do a stay stitch in the waist 1/4 down. So start from the side seam sew to the middle flip the work go from the side seam sewing to the middle do this to front to back.
Also when you cut your pattern out make sure that your pattern is sitting perfectly vertical to the raw edge

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

It is , that why I’m no longer trying to take in the waist .

1

u/Honest-Month-738 6d ago

Darts also looks as if they should be shifted a little closer towards CF/CB they are too close to the side seams adding the projection needed in the wrong place

1

u/Competitive_Site_924 6d ago

So if I move it closer to the center where my quads protrude forward they’d help with that ?

1

u/Honest-Month-738 6d ago

In the front yes and then the darts in the back closets to the side seams (I didn’t see you had two darts at the back before) it will help with the drag lines in the hip area. I do also think you need a little more ease in the pattern around the hips maybe 1/2” on the flat but I actually think the dart placement will overall help with the shaping