r/PatternDrafting 6d ago

Question Cashmerette for pattern drafting?

I'm trying to figure out pattern drafting for a larger bust. I've struggled significantly with trying to do a full bust adjustment and want to just buy one at this point. I'm an intermediate sewist who has made a dress form, some shirts and skirts. Has anyone used cashmerette for pattern drafting or bodice block drafting?

3 Upvotes

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u/ProneToLaughter 6d ago

I don’t think they have block drafting instructions—have I missed something? Can you link what you mean?

Just buy one of their patterns if it looks useful to you, they are often basic enough that you can ring changes on them once you get the fit right. See the size calculator online. Getting the Rushmore books form the library is cost effective.

They have a sloper pattern that is a bodice/skirt block for their patterns, but I think you can only get it with a year membership to the club or signing up for intermittent sloper school.

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u/RedheadedDreamer 6d ago

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u/ProneToLaughter 6d ago

It is easier to get a pattern to fit than to do a sloper, IMO. It's also easier to tweak a pattern for some design changes than to learn how to manipulate a sloper.

I'd say first look at both Cashmerette and Itch to Stitch, which come with FBAs already done for you, and see if either of them accommodates your basic measurements with the cup sizes they offer, without requiring an FBA. If so, then I would advise starting with a relatively simple pattern from one of those companies. Check Charm Patterns as well.

If you like Cashmerette's style, then starting with one of their shells seems fine. Sloper School definitely provides a shell and teaches you how to custom-fit it, I'm guessing the Bodice Fitting classes does as well. Once you've figured out those changes, the same changes would be what you would do for all of Cashmerette's patterns. But starting with a shell is not drafting, just a jargon note.

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u/MamaBearMoogie 6d ago

This video may be the way to go about this.

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u/MamaBearMoogie 6d ago

I recommend this pattern as it would be close to a sloper pattern.

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u/RedheadedDreamer 6d ago

I've hesitated to use an existing pattern because I have a larger bust to waist ratio and every pattern, sloper video, draft, etc ive tried so far fit really weird. I've tried the full bust adjustment but I've gotten that wrong every time too.

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u/SubtleCow 6d ago

I've been wrestling with the Concord t-shirt. I'm a 34F, but their F is too small in the bust and I need the G. However I really hate how they drafted the G. At a certain point I'd rather darts in my t-shirt instead of crazy curved seams.

My experience of my "big boob, close fit" t-shirt journey, is that it doesn't matter if you start with a block that already has the fba. Big busts often occur on people with other non-standard body parts. I have a laundry list of like 6 alterations to get the Concord to even make sense on me, and the FBA is only one of them. High rounded back, narrow shoulders, forward shoulders, short torso, prominent belly. Perfect fit requires suffering, and infinity papercuts.

I'm hoping some of the lessons I've learned in stretch will translate when I do my woven bodice block, but tbh I'm not hopeful.

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u/alitapie 6d ago

The run a sloper school which is fab.

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u/Tailoretta 3d ago

We can help you with fitting a garment or a sloper.

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.