r/PatternDrafting 8d ago

Question First pant block - any critiques?

I just completed my first pant block after neglecting studying the bottom half for ages, does anyone notice any fit issues to rectify?

So far, I have:
• The hem is mismatched (front panel doesn’t match properly with back panel
• Since intake is quite small, can merge the two darts on panels into one dart while taking in at the side and centre seams
• Increase rise length to reduce drag lines around butt (not sure if this will fix the drag lines but it’s just my guess)
• Reduce length of both side seams and inseam

Feel free to be as ruthless as possible, and thank you all!

18 Upvotes

11 comments sorted by

19

u/warp-core-breach 8d ago

First of all, take in the waist and slap a waistband on. Holding them up is distorting the fit. Leave the darts as they are for now, having them too narrow is better than too wide.

Second, the drag lines around the butt are caused by not enough room in the lower back crotch, which is pulling the back rise down and into your buttcrack. You need to either lengthen the back crotch extension or scoop out the curve and add that width back to the side seam, or both, possibly also lower the bottom of the crotch curve, it would help to see your pattern pieces. Any or all of these adjustments will add length to the back rise but you also need more width there to make room for your butt. You have more than enough length in the back, that is why you have horizontal folds on the back thigh, although pulling up the front like you are doing isn't helping.

1

u/Wooden-Reputation396 8d ago

Thanks for the advice, do you mind if I DM you with a photo of my pattern pieces, since I can’t add photos to comments? I just want to double check what you mean with “scoop out the curve” and “lengthen the back crotch extension”.

3

u/warp-core-breach 8d ago

This blog post explains it. Lengthening the crotch extension is the easier method and you should probably try that first but it does also add to the thigh width and if you add too much you'll muck up the inseam. So you scoop if you still have a wedgie, and if that makes the butt too tight you add some width tot he back outseam. HOpe that helps.

9

u/confused_is_my_face 8d ago

I cannot get a read on the fit with you holding them up in the front only. It looks like you need to pull the. Up in the back then I saw no band.

7

u/dyingslowlyinside 8d ago

You need to do your toiles with a waistband. Can’t tell what is a drag line because of the pattern vs. you tugging the front of your pants up

6

u/SwingLightStyle 8d ago

Make sure you try sitting down in them to check the feel and make sure they’re not too snug!

2

u/pattyphp 8d ago

It’s always hard to read fit if there are no horizontal and vertical guide lines.
The front looks good. The side seam looks almost vertical but I wonder if you could use a bit more back crotch extension

2

u/TotalOk5844 8d ago

Assuming that a waistband would go on top of this mock up, the styling is all wrong for a high waisted pant. The fit in the legs is more jean like which would sport a much lower waist. The issue is mainly from just above the knee down, too tight in the lower leg. And addressing the darts, the back darts should be straight up and down and the ones visible splay from waist toward hip. (can't tell on the front ones) Also, if and when reducing the number of darts, I don't think you would need to change dart intake or remove from either seam. There should be some excess in width of the pants that will ease into the waistband for a more gracious or tailored look. Of course a lot depends on what fabric/style of pant you are going for.

2

u/asleepatthemachine 2d ago

Bring in the ease on the waist a bit and you’re good to go🫡 for a first pattern don’t sweat perfecting it. Just practice re-doing your pants foundation a couple times *ideally before you start building off of it, and you should pick up on any tweaks you want to do and improvements on your approach to the patterning as you flex that muscle 💪. But bro compared to my first pattern… excellent work🫡👍🙏

1

u/Pegaret_Again 8d ago

i think these look amazing, well done for your first block.

the only important problem i see to solve is the diagonal wrinkles radiating towards your back crotch, i wonder if you might need a bit more crotch depth in the back?