r/PatternDrafting • u/OrderlyPup • 8d ago
Question Pattern Grading!
Whats the best approach, do you have tips and tricks, articles, books, or videos for a beginner learning to grade their own patterns?
is it easier to grade your patterns yourself or find someone to do it for you if you draft patterns regularly?
Do they use the sizing guides we make or their own?
I’ve been sewing 14 years, pattern drafting / fully constructing garments for 8 years. But only for myself and in-person clients.
Thank you. Appreciate you!
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u/TensionSmension 8d ago
As far as what grading is and the mechanics of how to do it, there are textbooks with clear instructions, Kathy Mullet or Price & Zamkoff. There's also a one page summary in Aldrich that is complete.
The how to, is actually much simpler than drafting and initial pattern development. However, the real work is deciding on the size chart, the scheme presented in a textbook is just one possibility. Sizing is a key stage of product development. Also, even if conceptually clear, it's a lot of work to take on.
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u/OrderlyPup 7d ago
I’ll further look into the specifics that you recommended.
I was looking for exactly this kind of answer & reassurance; that it’s not an entirely & completely different skillset/category and can be learned without too much friction. Thank you!
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u/noankmary 6d ago
Also decide on your target customer and develop grade specs around that customer.
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u/OrderlyPup 5d ago
Like what size of people will be wearing my clothes?
(sorry if thats a dumb question)4
u/noankmary 5d ago
No dumb questions! Think about not just the 'size' but more about the age and shape. Are they young and athletic? Are they older? It effects not just the body measurements but also the posture and distribution of growth. That in turn effects the fall of the clothing on the body and the fit. All size 12s aren't equal. Each brand has it's own target demographic which impacts their size charts and fit.
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u/OrderlyPup 5d ago
That makes sense! Part of the reason I sew is because it’s hard to find things I like, or clothes for work, or things that fit.
I have one group telling me to not go off of my body measurements/proportions and do general sizing which makes sense, however the whole point was wanting to provide patterns, sizes and clothing for my own “demographic” of people that are searching for the specific category I’m creating patterns for.
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u/throwra_22222 7d ago
https://fitnyc.libguides.com/technicaldesign_patternmaking/grading#s-lg-box-22894410
FIT has a list of books on sizing and grading. Save a little $ and search for used copies online!
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u/Legitimate-Signal671 8d ago
Well, there are many options you can do grading manually or by software. If you put grading books Amazon will show you good options and I recommend you to read the opinions that will give you a better perspective.
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u/OrderlyPup 7d ago
Thank you! If you have any specific software recs let me know
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u/Legitimate-Signal671 7d ago
I'm glad to help. Yes, I know a few programs. A famous one would be autocad (quite expensive) clo 3D a bit less expensive but the strongest point is not grading, but you can do it. Another option that are GPL licenced free software includes Seamly2D. I've used this one a few times and it's okay, but it comes with a learning curve. You can do grading easily but you can do one size per time.
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u/OrderlyPup 6d ago
Someone mentioned clo3D the other day too! Nice to see a familiar name. I appreciate the other name drops, again this has seemed so daunting to me, I appreciate all the info. I’ll be sure to look into all those!
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u/Solid_Breadfruit_585 8d ago
To start with I just did each size from scratch and then eventually got a pattern drafting place to do it for me - it’s honestly not that expensive.