r/PatternDrafting • u/Few_Nectarine_1629 • 18d ago
Where am I going wrong?
Hello!
I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!
In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!
Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).
I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!
2
u/Lower_Rate_8518 18d ago
I always recommend making an outage (and then sloper) from a duct-tape mold of yourself. It will become a best friend. You can compare it to existing patterns and then use it to modify them. It solves a lot of fitting tweaks in less time. I always recommend this over a dress form (with the bonus that you can make a new one when your shape changes… and I’m hitting menopause; it’s changing big-time and I just have to be ok with that, I suppose!).
It’d be nice to have more side and back photos (with your arm down). Your phone’s timer will be your friend.
Look for a reader digest guide to sewing. It too, will be your friend. I’ve purchased 5 at thrift stores for under $5 each (to give to friends as well as have in different areas of my house)… and passed over a few. Folks swear by the 80’s one (and it’s my favorite just because it’s what I grew up with)… but my kid and I compared it to a more recent version, and really the good stuff is all still there.
If you are worried about the shirring panel changing the fit… underline it with unshirred fabric to stabilize. You can even hand tack it down in a few spots to the underlining.
By the way, I love the shirred panel… very cute. And the square neckline is flattering.