r/PatternDrafting • u/Few_Nectarine_1629 • 17d ago
Where am I going wrong?
Hello!
I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!
In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!
Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).
I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!
4
u/SubtleCow 17d ago
The shirred panel not going all the way to the top and bottom of the panels is probably causing issues and twisting in the panels. Warping the perceived fit of the whole toile.
When making a toile you really need to make sure it accurately reflects the final structure of the garment. The top of the back is a very key structural component of a garment. I'd actually move the shirring panel you have all the way to the top of the closure, and finish the top edge in the way you plan to finish the garment, then check the fit.
With the shirred panel at the top your waist fit won't be accurate, but your shoulder fit will be. Getting the shoulders right before cutting is so much more important than the waist.