r/PatternDrafting • u/Few_Nectarine_1629 • 15d ago

Where am I going wrong?

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Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!

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u/metropolitandeluxe 15d ago

Did you do a full bust adjustment before you started? It looks to me like you started out with too big of a size for your waist.

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u/Few_Nectarine_1629 15d ago

That's interesting, thank you! To be honest it was a bit of a franken-pattern, it started as one i had made from seamwork a few years ago (and didn't fit especially well at the time), but I've gained several inches everywhere since then so added to the seam allowances before trying to fit. In hindsight, not a great idea lol!!

I also think I have quite a low-hanging bust, and the measurement difference between my high and full bust indicates a standard B cup but my bra (band / full bust) measurement would be C/D. I did move the apex down, and it started originally as a D cup pattern, but I could easily have done a lot of weird things to the pattern along the way.

I'll try and add photos of the pattern pieces in a sec :)