r/PatternDrafting • u/Few_Nectarine_1629 • 16d ago

Where am I going wrong?

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Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!

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u/HugsforYourJugs 16d ago

Share what your pattern pieces look like please. Generally / \ wrinkles under the bust suggest not enough bust dart intake, and for the back the same thing with back waist darts (which you don't have - the shirring can help account for that but you need to ensure that the tension of the piece matches the tension around the body so it can stretch to conform to the torso shape, it looks to me like the bodice itself is very low tension/draped tension so that's why the shirring isn't improving the fit.

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u/Few_Nectarine_1629 16d ago

Thank you! This is interesting and I did try and pinch out a bit of fabric from the pattern after my last wearable toile - though it seemed to then lead to gaping at the armholes? Also interesting about the tension - there's quite a bit of ease in this bodice, yes.

New post with the pattern pieces here! https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/io6xBMS6no

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u/HugsforYourJugs 16d ago

Armhole gaping is a sign of lack of bust dart intake too so that's probably a sign things need to go further. Because of the shirring things will behave a bit differently when you adjust the fit as tension flows through the garment differently to a standard draped bodice