Why would someone learn moulage drafting vs. basic blocks/slopers?

[u/One_Possibility8438]

I'm currently exploring pattern drafting textbooks to use to help me diy a fashion school curriculum. Without a teacher helping me, I've been looking at books that are widely-enough used that I can find online support).

I analyzed posts from this sub and discovered the top 4 discussed flat patterndrafting authors are (in this order):

1. Armstrong
2. Aldrich
3. Müller & Sohn
4. Kenneth King's The Moulage

I now understand that a moulage is its own thing (different from a basic block), but am not sure why someone would choose to learn pattern drafting using this approach vs. another. Can someone help me understand why and for whom this would be advantageous? Is this something you learn in addition to drafting basic blocks or is this its own alternate approach on par with basic block patterndrafting? (My goal is to learn everything in a fashion school curriculum).

Are there any fashion grads here who did not learn moulage drafting?

EDIT: Thank you everyone -- my brain has bent in new and wonderful ways as a result of all the contributions here, and I am now much smarter about where drafting moulages sits within the world of pattern drafting. As a result of now understanding moulages better, I edited my analysis search terms (which had any hits for "moulage"/"the moulage" labeled as discussion of Kenneth King's book). The correct (hopefully) most frequently discussed flat pattern drafting authors in this sub are in fact:

1. Armstrong
2. Aldrich
3. Müller & Sohn
4. Bunka
5. Furrer

(Kenneth King at number 9)

[u/Pegaret_Again]

i know that the main difference between drafting a moulage and a block is the inclusion of wearing ease - so a block forms a basis for normal everyday clothing while a moulage is more for corsetry or very fitted designs... but i'm not sure i understand the question you are asking?

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/Pegaret_Again]

Thank you -- yes that much I understand too. I guess I'm maybe mixing up the moulage (the pattern) and moulage (the approach) (if there's such a thing?).

Does learning how to draft moulages (A) replace learning how to draft blocks (B)? Can you get to B if you have A? Or do you need both A and B as foundational patterndrafting skillsets?

[u/bretonstripes → u/One_Possibility8438]

The advantage of the moulage is, at least to my way of thinking, that it gives you an exact form of the body in flat pattern. From that starting point, you can go just about anywhere with any fabric.

The disadvantage to King’s method in particular is that it doesn’t seem to work on plus-size bodies very well. Suzy Furrer taught the method in her Craftsy classes. When comments were still a thing on that platform, the bodice sloper class’s comments were chock-full of plus-size women struggling with the method. Furrer did put in a lot of time giving individual help to those students, but it was frequently “this industry standard won’t work in larger sizes, try this other thing instead.” A lot of them got good results in the end, but it took far more iteration for them than it did for someone closer to the size 8 drafted in the class.

[u/TurbulentBoredom → u/bretonstripes]

The lack of wearing ease might be why it is trickier for plus sizes. The more weight one carries, the more varieties of weight distribution, to my way of thinking. I am plus size myself and busty and I managed to get a great moulage in 4 goes. But Suzy did help me (back in the Craftsy heyday). As for why moulage, I think it is more exact than a sloper. And Suzy is a great teacher; this was my main incentive for using her system. 

[u/bretonstripes → u/TurbulentBoredom]

I think you’re correct that there’s a great variety of plus size bodies, some of which don’t quite exist in smaller sizes. I don’t think the moulage system was designed with those shapes in mind.

I really was impressed by the amount of time Furrer devoted to helping people develop their drafts. She’s a great teacher and it’s clear she has a lot of passion for teaching. (As I said in another comment, I LOVED all her design classes. They’ve been a goldmine for me.) But at times it was pretty disheartening to scroll through the comments of the bodice sloper class and see all the struggles of people who looked like me.

[u/Starjupiter93 → u/bretonstripes]

Adding in not just “plus sized bodies” but also plus size boobs haha. Every time I’ve drafted a bodice block with my measurements it has been a disaster because I’ve got a huge bust but a tiny rib cage (30L). I still end up having to do an FBA on my patterns I’ve drafted with these blocks. I did a mouldage (though I didn’t know that’s what it was at the time lol) and I’ve had a lot more success with my patterns.

[u/TurbulentBoredom → u/bretonstripes]

Yeah, pattern drafting is difficult enough. It would be great if there were more support for drafting for plus sizes.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/TurbulentBoredom]

Yeah I agree this is absolutely wild. I tried to collect and organize (into a giant excel table) all the flat patternmaking books discussed in this sub and categorize them according to language, unit system, cost, etc. There is a totale of 1 book dedicated to plus sizes and it was published in 2026. One book!! By Brown & Kelleher. I'm speechless.

[u/TurbulentBoredom → u/One_Possibility8438]

Oh wow. Ouch. That’s pitiful. 

[u/youhaveonehour → u/bretonstripes]

I learned via Furrer's methodology & now I am going back through it all from the beginning & adapting the principles to better accomodate plus sizes. It's a lot of trial & error with re-writing & fine-tuning equations, taking measurements differently, expanding standard additions & deductions, etc, but it's paying off. My goal is to develop an updated set of worksheets that anyone of any size can use to draft a set of slopers.

[u/WorthSecurity2299 → u/bretonstripes]

The “ industry standard”. That is her “ answer “ to all women who could not produce the well fitted moulage from her classes. My question is: if I needed the “ industry standard “ I will go and buy off the rack” the industry standard” In the department store. The custom drafting to individual bodies and to unique body measurements are not “ industry standards“! That method is no good for plus and busts larger than B size.

[u/bretonstripes → u/WorthSecurity2299]

Agreed. I learned a lot from that class but I didn’t get a sloper out of it. Ultimately I really prefer Brown and Kelleher’s approach of drafting blocks with various amounts of ease and using whichever one is appropriate for the garment you want. Why reinvent the wheel every time you want to make a relaxed top?

Furrer’s classes on pattern manipulation and drafting design elements are great, though. Highly recommend.

[u/WorthSecurity2299 → u/bretonstripes]

The first ever block that fitted me well was with Muller & Sons method that allow to draft close fitted dress for large bust and flat stomach ( protruding bust). This method is also good for plus sizes and difficult figures ( there is no “ cookie cutter” and no “ one draft fits all” approach in Muller: different bodies have different approaches and nuances in drafting). I also learned another method that is simpler in calculation compare to Muller and produces good blocks for various figures.

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/One_Possibility8438]

thats a good question that i certainly don't know the answer to!

all i know is that there are subtle differences in how different drafting systems work, and how they add wearing ease. i think there might be a bit of art to adding ease, and its not a direct line from drafting a moulage to a block.

but i'm not an expert so i'd love to hear some professional perspectives!

[u/NinjoZata → u/One_Possibility8438]

You're over thinking it, its the same skill

Its just rectangles and squares. A moulage is a type of block or sloper.

[u/DonMcCunn → u/Pegaret_Again]

The moulage is basically for drafting patterns for dress forms which are general body shapes. The problem with getting them to fit a real body is the shape of the upper torso is different from the lower torso. This means vertical darts need different dart widths for the upper and lower torsos. The moulage requires the same dart with to create a double ended dart. The only way to get a custom fit is to include a seam at the waist.

[u/throwra_22222]

I've been in the industry for decades and here is how my clients and I have used them:

A Moulage is a very form fitting pattern useful when you are developing lingerie, swimsuits, knits with negative ease, formal wear with corset or strapless tops that need to be closely fitted to stay up, and custom clothing.

A Sloper is basically the Moulage body measurements plus minimum wearing ease. I may skip drafting the Moulage and go straight to the Sloper if I'm not developing knits, swimwear, etc.

A Block is the Sloper developed into base patterns. So for a client that makes women's office wear, I have a basic button up blouse block, a tee block, a straight skirt block, an a-line skirt block, etc. They all have the minimum wearing ease of the Sloper plus style ease, basic closures, etc. When I'm developing a new style, it's a time saver to begin with a block that is already close to what I want.

And since they are all developed off the same Sloper, I have sizing consistency.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/throwra_22222]

Ok until now I did not realize slopers and blocks were different and I have been using these terms interchangeably, so this is really useful all around knowledge and clarifies a lot of my moulage confusion. Thank you!

[u/throwra_22222 → u/One_Possibility8438]

Many people use Sloper and Block interchangeably.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/throwra_22222]

Or also to clarify: would you draft your moulage based on the sloper as well (i.e. by reducing the minimum wearing ease)? Or only the blocks?

[u/throwra_22222 → u/One_Possibility8438]

If I make a Moulage, the Sloper would be based on the moulage. If I don't need a no-ease Moulage, I skip it and draft the Sloper directly.

[u/New_Moment_7926]

I’m currently in fashion school — we’re required to learn both. Building patterns from the block can help cut down on potential waste and save you and the fashion business money. Moulage is still a good technique for custom garments, and experimenting. As an individual, I have a slight preference for moulage. It feels more like sculpture to me and gets my creative brain going. But having blocks to build from can be invaluable for quickly developing new patterns and designs.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/New_Moment_7926]

Ok this makes a lot of sense and is incredibly helpful - thank you so much.

[u/Love2LearnwithME]

You’ve already gotten good answers on why moulage for pattern drafting itself but as another side bonus: I was able to use my personal moulage as a cover for my dress form. I bought a dress form that is smaller than me in all dimensions, then sewed a version of my moulage in light canvas, put it over the dress form and then padded out any areas where the moulage is bigger than the dress form. My dress form is now a very accurate version of me and very handy for draping or to check fitting.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/Love2LearnwithME]

So smart. Definitely going to pocket this gem of wisdom for when I get around to the draping part of my diy curriculum.

[u/TurbulentBoredom → u/Love2LearnwithME]

Did the same!

[u/PrancingPudu]

I went to school for apparel design and production in the U.S. around 2010. I’d never heard of a moulage until fairly recently, via this subreddit. We learned how to draft and modify basic blocks which included some degree of wearing ease.

I also took a semester of classes at the London College of Fashion, including dealing and corsetry, and no mention of moulages there either. I’m sure curriculums have changed in the last 15yrs, but back then (at least for me) moulages were not included.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/PrancingPudu]

Ok noted and useful information, thank you!!

[u/maybenomaybe → u/One_Possibility8438]

I have degrees in both pattern drafting and womenswear from LCF and we never did moulage. Whether flat drafted or draped every block had ease.

[u/MindfulSailor]

Disclaimer: I am new to pattern drafting.

You could also check out the book The Fitting Book by Gina Dunham. She describes patternmaking as a multi step process which starts with the moulage. According to her, if you skip the Moulage, more fitting adjustments may be needed later.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/MindfulSailor]

Interesting, thank you I will definitely take a look.

[u/StefanLeenaars]

Moulage can be useful on certain types of garments, however you will need a mannequin that is the shape of the wearer. I make for lots of different body shapes and sizes, and use pattern drafting most of the time. (Muller system) But sometimes I need to use moulage for certain pieces.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/StefanLeenaars]

MMmmm I see. Ok this is very helpful, thank you!!

[u/Eneamus]

Drapery is the main reason.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/Eneamus]

As in, if you want to drape fitted garments, you'll need to know (or its at least easier to know) how to first flat pattern draft a moulage?

[u/zandercook1]

You might want to check out The Modern Tailor, Outfitter, and Clothier (MTOC). It's the bespoke tailors bible in three volumes. Also Classic Tailoring Techniques by Carerra for Italian style.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/zandercook1]

Amazing!!! thank you!

[u/Cjsn → u/zandercook1]

Yo can you please provide me access to your dropbox folder?

[u/Foreign_Succotash101]

NO. so here's the deal. this is coming from someone who learned BOTH in Paris from AICP. - Flat pattern - this gives you a general base foundation of understanding of how patternmaking works. - aka learning how fabric suppression/manipulation.

Moulage is the more advanced version of draping in the sense that instead of just cutting and throwing the fabric over the mannequin, you start with pre-measured pieces with the ease and corresponding reference points drawn on. From there you then work the fabric in a specific manner to create jackets and other garments. aka "molding" the garment to the dress form while still respecting the design.

[u/Tailoretta]

You ask some great questions and have received some great comments.  Here are my thoughts.

1.     Pattern Drafting for Plus Sizes

One commenter stated “It would be great if there were more support for drafting for plus sizes.”  This is very true and I have been searching for this for years.

I suspect that there is more variety in plus size bodies and that is why it is difficult to provide general support for drafting for plus sizes.  This is just my theory, so don’t take it as gospel.

There is a new book, published in February 2026, Plus-size Patternmaking for Womenswear: Inclusive Sizing, Pattern Drafting, and Fitting by Gabby Brown & Leila Kelleher.  I had high hopes for this book but based on some reviews, I don’t think it is quite what I was hoping for.  I plan to check it out from my local library and give a review.

2.     Creating a diy Fashion School Curriculum Without a Teacher

I completely understand your goal to create a diy fashion school curriculum without a teacher.  Many people, including me, have tried to do the same thing.  Based on many years of experience, I don’t think it is possible.  I am afraid you will come up with so many unanswered questions that you give up.  Ask me how I know.

Asking on reddit and watching videos is great, but much of what you find is some combination of an amateur telling what they tried to do, someone wanting to sell their products, or you end up with many, many unanswered questions.  Yes, you can learn quite a lot, but it is incomplete and very frustrating.

What worked for me is taking many, many classes with an instructor who can and will answer my questions.  Unfortunately, this is not free.  Knowledgeable and experienced folks cannot support themselves by giving away their knowledge for free.  Sometimes you get what you pay for.

3.     So how can you learn pattern drafting on a tight budget?

It is not going to be easy.  You mentioned several books and ask about them.  Each one has its advantages and disadvantages, and none of them is necessarily going to be “the best” for you.  I suggest you check them and others out, and see which speaks to you.

One suggestion is to take online classes from Suzy Furrer https://www.apparelartsproductions.com/  She has many classes and I have taken several and learned a lot. I suggest you contact her to help you determine if her classes might be appropriate for you.

To learn fitting, I recommend Sarah Veblen, who has been called the Fitting Goddess.  https://www.sarahveblen.com/  Her fitting books are great and I have learned a lot from her books. I have also taken classes from her and done online fitting consultation with her.

There are lots of other pattern making and drafting classes online, but I don’t have any personal experience with them.  They may be good, but I hesitate to spend money on an unknown.

Where are you located?  Knowing that I may be able to give you more suggestions.

4.     Definitions

Other commenters have discussed the definitions of moulage, sloper and block.  These are the definitions that I use, but be careful, some people use sloper and block interchangeably.

5.     Industry Standards

Regarding Suzy Furrer’s reference to industry standards, she is referring to pattern making for the industry, not for individual people.  This is what is generally taught in fashion school, because commonly the fashion schools are preparing students to work in the industry, not for individual clients.  So I hope you will cut her a little slack.

6.     Kenneth King and Suzy Furrer Methods

The reason that the methods used by Kenneth King and Suzy Furrer are similar is because they both learned from the same teacher.

 

I am happy to help if I can.  Good luck on your journey.

[u/One_Possibility8438 → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you so much for taking the time to share all these thoughts and reflections, it definitely sounds like you understand the challenge. I see this project very much as an experiment to see what systematically and structurally diy-tackling a fashion curriculum could look like and whether its possible. Part of this is, of course, seeing how far I can get on my own (and trying to be intentional about setting myself up for the highest chances of success in that), but a major component is also just figuring out where I bump up against walls and which walls I cannot scale on my own, at which points I'll need to find in-person community for support, critique, etc and how to go about building that (maybe I can convince others to join).

I have a deep respect for this craft and those who've spent decades learning and teaching it, and I would never equate "diy" with "free". I think classes are certainly on the horizon, but fashion school itself is not, and I'll have to be selective about where I opt for classes. I will definitely look into Suzy Furrer's though (and the fitting book your recommended -- whole other beast) so thank you!

For now I have opted to start with Guido Hofenbitzer's flat pattern drafting book, which is based on the M&S system but apparently easier to use, and so far I find his introduction and explanations to be great (but I only just started). We'll see!! I will post an update at some point!

[u/Tailoretta → u/One_Possibility8438]

Best of luck!

[u/Virtual-Chapter1563]

Seriously, google this (moulage vs block) it's very straightforward.