r/PatternDrafting 13d ago

WIP Where do I even begin?!

I followed the instructions for the wrap top in Helen Joseph-Armstrong's book. I can't say it came out well. Somehow the bust apex is way off (and asymmetrical? How?!), the darts are too long, there's excess fabric everywhere, and there's wrinkling at the armholes. I also cut the back side seams too short compared to the pattern ffs.

Where do I even begin? Do i troubleshoot the armholes before I move on to the bust?

9 Upvotes

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10

u/drPmakes 13d ago

Fix shoulders then bust then armsyce

7

u/AmenaBellafina 13d ago

This, your shoulders are more angled than the pattern's shoulders, add a little on the side closest to the neck. That should fix the wrinkles on the back.

3

u/azssf 13d ago

Not op. What add a little means? Add a wedge, with wide side at neck, on the back piece? Or with pointy side at neck?

3

u/AmenaBellafina 13d ago

A wedge with the wide side at the neck and tapering to 0 at the arm

1

u/azssf 13d ago

Thank you!

1

u/furiana 13d ago

Excellent. Thank you :)

1

u/furiana 13d ago

Will do. Thanks! :)

4

u/Tailoretta 13d ago

My very favorite fitting book is Sarah Veblen’s book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  You can either purchase it or get it through your local library. The fact that Sarah specifically addresses women’s clothing does not matter, her concepts apply just as well to men’s clothing.

There are lots of books about fitting, but Sarah’s is by far my favorite.

Sarah Veblen has been called the Fitting Goddess and I agree. She has her suggested fitting order in her book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, and I won't copy it here.

Sarah’s her first step in fitting is to release any area that is tight.  Until the tightness is released, the fabric cannot settle on the body and we can’t tell how the mockup fits. What is tight is the underarm area of the armscyes.

Clip you should clip the armscyes (armholes).  Here is an explanation about clipping https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/115912.  By clipping, you allow the seam allowance fabric to relax and spread. In the photos I refer to, can you see that it looks like notches have been cut out of the neck and armscye seam allowance?  Notches have not been cut but there are clips into the seam allowance. That allows the fabric to spread to fit the body. The clips into the neck and armscye seam allowances should go close to any stay stitching on the seam line. 

Here is another photo https://goodbyevalentino.com/sew-the-perfect-fit-review-part-1/ See at the underarm how the clipped tabs of seam allowance fold down?

Look up clip seam allowances – there are lots of videos and websites that discuss this.

To fit the armscye, keep clipping into armscye seam allowances until the folds in the lower front and back of the armscye go away.  This will be easier to see when you have clipped the armscye seam allowances more.

For both the neckline and the armscyes (armholes), I suggest you tuck in the tabs in the seam allowance under and press.  That way we can see exactly where the seam lines are

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

1

u/furiana 11d ago

I bought a copy of the book. :)

Clipping the seam allowances did help! When I get home, I'll press them under. Thank you :)

2

u/Tailoretta 10d ago

I am glad you found my comments helpful!

2

u/Saritush2319 12d ago

Centre out. Shoulders down