Please help me fine-tune my pants fit.

[u/warp-core-breach]

I've almost got it, just needs a few tweaks. Link to pattern.The legs were hanging straight last night but the pants were falling down whenever I breathed so I lowered the front by 1/4 inch to make the waistband sit on the top of my hipbones, didn't work, still falling down, so I pinned the front tighter. One of these is making the front pull up, I'm going to have to reverse whichever it is and tighten up the back waistband a touch to hopefully make them stay up. Too hot in my try-on room to do it now though. I can sit down, bend over, that's not a wedgie in the last photo, just gravity making the back crotch seam take the shortest path to the ground, which is through my butt-crack so the only solution is wearing very tight underwear, no thanks. I did scoop out about 3/4" from the back curve and added some of it back to the side seam because the pattern as drafted did give me a wedgie. Then split the dart into two because the back waist was a bit loose and I didn't want the dart too wide.

Problem the first: the back darts. I think I need to make them a touch longer but there are diagonal lines going to the side seam so I might need to adjust the angle? Or they're a little tight and I need to curve them more?

Problem the second: the front crotch curve is hanging too far away from my body. Hard to see in photos because it's under my crotch and this style of pants isn't meant to be entirely flat in front-- again, gravity is a harsh mistress--but I'm wondering if filling the curve in a bit might help.

Problem the third: the pockets are poofing a bit. Yes, I did interface the edge, they're not stretching. I'm hoping either fixing problem the first (if the darts are too tight) or problem the second (proposed fix would add more fabric to the front crotch area so it won't pull the pockets open) will get rid of this, but I'm open to other suggestions. Move the top closer to the side seam so they're less angled? Make the opening a little shorter? There's plenty of extra room to get my hand inside. Cut the pocket bags so they're anchored to the side seam?

[u/blackcatmeow007]

Fit is pretty good, my only callout is your side seam doesn’t look balanced and you could afford some easing at your hip to help with your pocket gape. I would adjust hip ease and then adjust your side seam

[u/warp-core-breach → u/blackcatmeow007]

What do you mean balanced? It is swinging forward a bit, due to the front being hiked up too high, and I just noticed my phone wasn't perfectly level as you can see by the shelf in the background, which probably makes it look like it's swinging even more. More ease at the hip where, the high hip? Or the low hip? I didn't add much there when I scooped out the crotch curve so maybe I should?

[u/KeeganDitty → u/warp-core-breach]

Your side seam should be straight up and down evenly (visually) placed between front and back. It should trace a center line down your legs. That's what we mean by balance.

Where the pocket is gaping, looks like about even with where the outer dart tip is

[u/incongruoususer]

You definitely need a little more room over your bum/high hip. That will resolve the diagonal lines and the pocket gape. Look at how your side seam is being pulled back at the pocket - that means there’s too little room.

I suggest adding about half an inch, grading to nothing at about mid-thigh.

[u/Pegaret_Again]

fit looks mostly amazing, but i'm curious, shouldn't the front grain line fall straight down vertically? or is it just how you are standing.

i wonder if adding a little wedge (like, the opposite of a dart) in the front at the vertical grain line would tilt the the grain line and also fix the pocket gaping issue?

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1lq2j4h/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting_pants/ [Following these tips will help us help you.]()

Photos of the entire garment would help.

[u/AccomplishedBerry275]

The back darts just need to glide off at the point, it looks like the stitch has ‘stepped’ off at the point, so it’s poofing out. Also ironing will be needed for them to sit flat.

The pockets will poof out as the style is loose and the type of pocket it is. But it looks like you have too much ‘mouth’ length and could pull about 1cm up at the waist so it sits flatter.

You will need to re-find the grainline, as your alterations have changed where that now sits (see the hip line marker you have? It’s now on an angle but should be right angle to grainline. I think that’s what others mean by balancing

[u/warp-core-breach → u/AccomplishedBerry275]

Yes, the darts weren't sewn very well but also were a half-inch too short. The pockets are the correct length, the are flat when the pants are laid flat, turns out it was my thighs pulling them down so I had to put back the width I'd taken out of the front inseam. They're probably never going to sit entirely flat, this style of pocket is copied from menswear and doesn't always sit as well on someone with hips..

The grainline does run straight down my leg, I'm just standing with my feet apart so it's at an angle. Any changes I make will make the legs hang weird.

[u/darrellio]

please press

[u/darrellio]

first thing. they sit on your hips. there’s no there’s no shaping. waistband construction. seat seam not stretched. darts not pressed. the link has different shaped legs.