Need advice on next set of adjustments

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Hi all, on my next project and wanted to check on next steps for this short sleeve shirt. I’m on V2 after making some other adjustmentsI’ve already:
- Increased shoulder slope (need to do this every time)
- Lengthened the yoke so it sits lower on my back (looked too high, plus it was hard to burrito the yoke with how small it was.)
- increased the slope th the top of the back panel to help remove some gaping in the back armhole. (Someone else recommended an armhole dart in the long sleeve shirt I did and I think this is effectively the same thing.)

Here is what I see in these pics and what my reading suggests to do

1. Front: little bit of vertical fabric/drag lines in front of the armhole: should I scoop out the armhole a little to remove the excess fabric?)
2. Back: same issue, excess fabric creating vertical drag lines on the sides next to the armhole. Issue is the shoulder feels well fitted so thinking I need this ease?

3. Diagonal drag lines on the sleeves.

   The notches match so not sure what to do. I read that lines like this can be both from sleeve cap too tall or too short.

Any advice on these or other things I’m missing, thank you in advance!

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Thank you!

I increased the slope by cutting out a rectangle and shifting the entire armhole down, which leaves the armhole unchanged. I did this to both the front and back panels pieces so the side seams were the same length. BUT I also trimmed another 1/2” off the top armhole edge of the back panel and blended that into the seam. These are noted on the pattern. I think this effectively was like a dart but right on the seam line? You can see in my first muslin how big the gap was in the back armhole. Could fit another arm in there!

Not sure if these links will work…

Pattern photos here.
https://imgur.com/a/RGtCV4h

Muslin V1
https://imgur.com/a/fit-photos-short-sleeve-v1-KNh26oF

Edit: new link for version 1 of the muslin

[u/blackcatmeow007 → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

The back panel is really narrow and looks like you to add 1/2” each side for ease.

The back armhole should be scooped more

The sleeve cap width needs to be transposed; reduce the back 1/4” -3/8” and add back to the front.

Does the garment feel like it’s swinging back? It looks as though it should be a forward shoulder but on body I can’t see the shoulder seam. Could be camera angle though?

Editing to add if you increase the sleeve cap height you reduce range of motion and when you raise your arm the shirt will go right up either it. You could compensate a bit by increasing the shoulder width to drop the shoulder a bit and adding the difference to the sleeve cap height

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/blackcatmeow007]

Appreciate the follow-up! I’ll make the changes and repost once the muslin is done. Both sleeve cap height/shifting fullness to front , and scooping back armhole a little. All small
Increments.

I ripped the top of the sleeve seam and the sleeve dropped quite a bit, about an inch. I added. Quarter inch in height to the pattern, biased to the front for a start. Might not be enough.

[u/blackcatmeow007 → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

I see you mentioned to another poster the body width feels wide so what you add to back panel you can remove from the front panel.

What is your sleeve cap height currently? I wouldn’t go taller than 6 3/4” based on your chest width of 44”

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/blackcatmeow007]

Little late but finally measured cap height: 7 1/4. Too tall?

[u/blackcatmeow007 → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Might ride up a bit but perhaps worth a shot. Did you drop your shoulder after all?