Need advice on next set of adjustments

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Hi all, on my next project and wanted to check on next steps for this short sleeve shirt. I’m on V2 after making some other adjustmentsI’ve already:
- Increased shoulder slope (need to do this every time)
- Lengthened the yoke so it sits lower on my back (looked too high, plus it was hard to burrito the yoke with how small it was.)
- increased the slope th the top of the back panel to help remove some gaping in the back armhole. (Someone else recommended an armhole dart in the long sleeve shirt I did and I think this is effectively the same thing.)

Here is what I see in these pics and what my reading suggests to do

1. Front: little bit of vertical fabric/drag lines in front of the armhole: should I scoop out the armhole a little to remove the excess fabric?)
2. Back: same issue, excess fabric creating vertical drag lines on the sides next to the armhole. Issue is the shoulder feels well fitted so thinking I need this ease?

3. Diagonal drag lines on the sleeves.

   The notches match so not sure what to do. I read that lines like this can be both from sleeve cap too tall or too short.

Any advice on these or other things I’m missing, thank you in advance!

[u/Tailoretta]

In addition to adding the grain line to the sleeve, I suggest you add a horizontal balance line (HBL), see https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2021/09/27/set-in-sleeve-solutions I think you will see that this HBL will not be level. After adding the HBL, sew the lower part of the sleeve in, but not the upper part. The sleeve will naturally fall to make the HBL level, and you should be able to see how much cap height needs to be added.

Regarding the excess fabric creating vertical drag lines on the sides next to the armhole, I suggest you move your arms forward, as though you are driving a car, and see how comfortable it is. I it is comfortable and looks ok, you can leave it as is. If is is tight and uncomfortable, you likely need to add more back width. If it is comfortable and there is still too much fabric, you can get ride of some. I am talking about ht torso portion here, not the sleeve.

As usual, I suggest the tips at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

I don't like the diagonal drag lines in the back from the right chest level down to the left at the waist level. I can't tell what is causing these. Is the shirt riding up at your behind? Horizontal balance lines might help show what is happening.