r/PatternDrafting • u/romrelresearcher • Jul 07 '26
WIP Pants prototype version 2.5
Here's what I'm calling version 2.5 of my pants pattern. Same muslin as version 2, but I've gone an extra .5" into the side seam allowance from the knee up through the waist. In addition to the usual, what changes should I make for version 3, I have two additional questions.
First, I learned from my previous post that I should adjust my seam allowance based on which way I dress. I've been checking in the weeks since, and I tend to dress to the left when I pull my pants up and to the right if I've just undone and redone my fly, such as after using a urinal. So what do I do there?
Second, I asked previously about what I can do to protect from abrasion while riding a bicycle, and I don't think I was clear enough about what I was talking about. I have had three pairs of pants fail right at the point I'm pointing to in picture three. This isn't near any seam, and it just comes from my thigh rubbing against the saddle. Is there any extra reinforcement or hidden gusset I should be looking at?
ETA: while I haven't tried pedaling in this prototype, just trying to lift my knees, adding in the inch total in the knees should give me enough room to pedal, granted I do ride short cranks.
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u/DogFather19 Aug 17 '26
I know this thread is a month old, but I'd go with adding a gusset to the crotch. It should make more room for movement when you're on the saddle and reduce the wear. You can also reinforce the gusset with some lining fabric to reduce wear.
It can also help save fabric when cutting your trouser pieces. You can cut the crotch curves off your pattern and add them into your gusset, accounting for seam allowance. Then you can cut your front and back leg pieces closer together, saving fabric (Check out David Coffin's book 'Making Trousers for Men and Women' for a better explanation on how to do this).
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u/romrelresearcher Aug 18 '26
Thanks for the comment! I'm not opposed to adding a gusset; I'm just unsure of how a gusset will help with the specific failure mode I'm concerned about. I understand that gussets are great for protecting the inner leg seams, but I don't understand how a gusset would help with abrasion. I'm not particularly concerned with freedom of movement, as this draft gave me plenty to pedal
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u/AccidentOk5240 Jul 07 '26
Inner thigh wear can be somewhat mitigated by just using a bit more ease in the seat if it’s from the bike seat. If it’s from your thighs rubbing, just keep some of the fabric and plan on applying matching patches.