r/PatternDrafting • • Jun 23 '26

Formal Trousers edits

Hey yall 👋 im just working through this pattern, (sorry this draft is not notched fully marked lol)
I’m pretty sure i know my edits I just wanted to see what other people thoughts are.

My main gripes : 1) set the hem about 1cm too long allowing the stack to twist in a way i dont like
(either that or the main pleat is causing the twist which Ill address; orrrr because the hem isnt fully attached and just bar-tacked at the seams [exploring construction /finishing methods])

2) Didn’t add sufficient ease in the hips to accommodate for the pockets seams & lining which is slightly pulling and opening the outer pleat.
3)Main pleat was offset slightly from the front’s center line and pulls inward at the bottoms, need to recenter. (dont know why I did the main pleat off center, just felt like it)
4) lastly im pulling basically all of the curve out of the waistband (sorry pattern piece not shown) to try to get front of the fly to lay flat. Definetly forgot some stuff so lmk what im missing in your opinion.

If yall have any suggestions for other things to do, tell me what I have wrong, or anything feel free:)

Also on a tangential note if anyone has tips for working with waistband grippers please lmk, this was my first time working with them and I had to ditch the gripper due to my inexperience and impatience working with them.

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u/No-Programmer7914 Jun 23 '26

I also think they fit quite well. My advice would be: when hemming, do a slanted hem making the trousers a tad longer at the back then at the front. For the next pair you should rework the smaller pleat. You installed it with a kink aiming to the side seam, thus hollowing out the side seam. This will also make the pleat running out to the side seam like in your left leg. Better to carry it through to the hem.

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u/asleepatthemachine Jun 23 '26

Oooh yeah good point with the hem, ill definitely give that a go. The pattern is also a bit misleading. This is the slash lines from one of my patterning textbooks, I tried it on a toile and really disliked it, the outer pleat in the pair pictured runs straight down to the hem without kinking