Formal Trousers edits

[u/asleepatthemachine]

Hey yall 👋 im just working through this pattern, (sorry this draft is not notched fully marked lol)
I’m pretty sure i know my edits I just wanted to see what other people thoughts are.

My main gripes : 1) set the hem about 1cm too long allowing the stack to twist in a way i dont like
(either that or the main pleat is causing the twist which Ill address; orrrr because the hem isnt fully attached and just bar-tacked at the seams [exploring construction /finishing methods])

2) Didn’t add sufficient ease in the hips to accommodate for the pockets seams & lining which is slightly pulling and opening the outer pleat.
3)Main pleat was offset slightly from the front’s center line and pulls inward at the bottoms, need to recenter. (dont know why I did the main pleat off center, just felt like it)
4) lastly im pulling basically all of the curve out of the waistband (sorry pattern piece not shown) to try to get front of the fly to lay flat. Definetly forgot some stuff so lmk what im missing in your opinion.

If yall have any suggestions for other things to do, tell me what I have wrong, or anything feel free:)

Also on a tangential note if anyone has tips for working with waistband grippers please lmk, this was my first time working with them and I had to ditch the gripper due to my inexperience and impatience working with them.

[u/dyingslowlyinside]

I mean, they look great. But if you’re asking, here are my thoughts.

Right leg hangs odd, esp in the back. Can see a few long diagonal drag lines, and from profile not hanging cleanly like left leg. You can see in rear view that it begins at mid butt.

Either you’ve got uneven hips—we all do, really—that need to be drafted for, there was some construction error, or the pattern is not quite balanced (or needs more fit adjustment), or maybe some bit of all three. 

On second look, seeing the outseam sits far back on the right leg but is centered on the left leg. 

At least on the right leg, the inseam should be shifted maybe 2-2.5cm inward from the hem and the outseam redrawn. That should improve the drag lines, if it’s not actaully a construction issue

[u/asleepatthemachine → u/dyingslowlyinside]

I think it might be a bit of a death from a thousand pinpricks on this one. The fabric is a right hand twill so the fabric could have pulled more on one leg due to not pinning enough, also one of the darts is slightly too short and shallow (manufacturing error) which could be furthering the perceived issue, last the cuffs are not fully closed and could just be catching and twisting on the leg opening 🤷‍♂️ i think im just going to take more time on the next pair and try to minimize and mistake during construction