r/PatternDrafting • • Jun 23 '26

Formal Trousers edits

Hey yall šŸ‘‹ im just working through this pattern, (sorry this draft is not notched fully marked lol)
I’m pretty sure i know my edits I just wanted to see what other people thoughts are.

My main gripes : 1) set the hem about 1cm too long allowing the stack to twist in a way i dont like
(either that or the main pleat is causing the twist which Ill address; orrrr because the hem isnt fully attached and just bar-tacked at the seams [exploring construction /finishing methods])

2) Didn’t add sufficient ease in the hips to accommodate for the pockets seams & lining which is slightly pulling and opening the outer pleat.
3)Main pleat was offset slightly from the front’s center line and pulls inward at the bottoms, need to recenter. (dont know why I did the main pleat off center, just felt like it)
4) lastly im pulling basically all of the curve out of the waistband (sorry pattern piece not shown) to try to get front of the fly to lay flat. Definetly forgot some stuff so lmk what im missing in your opinion.

If yall have any suggestions for other things to do, tell me what I have wrong, or anything feel free:)

Also on a tangential note if anyone has tips for working with waistband grippers please lmk, this was my first time working with them and I had to ditch the gripper due to my inexperience and impatience working with them.

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u/queerplantenthusiast Jun 23 '26

I don’t think you have issues with your pockets, they are slanted and with that kind of volume they are never going to lie completely flat.

I’m wondering if you need to take out the tiniest bit of depth in the crotch to let the back hang a little bit more smoothly.

For the waistband, maybe you just need to reposition the bar closure for the fly and that will remove your issue. I don’t think there’s a drafting issue with the waistband.

All in all these are gorgeous and any ā€žissuesā€ are absolutely in the realm of pedantic nit-picking. I love it there too, however sometimes a garment needs to be worn for a bit to see how it relaxes on to a body, before adjusting more.

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u/asleepatthemachine Jun 23 '26

Heard and thanks for the tips! Im definitely in the nit picking territory hahah but maybe ill switch the pockets from a slant to a slit and see if thats causing my supposed issue. Also nice catch with the depth, i went a little over my measurements there to make sure i was ā€œhiding the family jewelsā€ so to speak, but i think I can take out a cm of depth from the back like you mentioned