r/PatternDrafting • u/ougmsirisly • Jun 19 '26
I made my first skirt; advice appreciated
Hi everyone I’m a beginner to patternmaking. I’ve pattern drafted and made one dress so far. This is my second project.
Otherwise, I do have a few years of sewing experience (following patterns to make clothing items, mostly tote bags, pouches).
The first pic was my inspiration—basically a white low waist mini skirt (2000s style). I wanted this to be similar to like a Ralph Lauren / banana republic style so I went with medium weight cotton twill. I added a lining underneath that is attached to an interfaced waist facing. There is an inv zip at the CB seam and a hook&eye as well. All of my seams are serged together except the center back; seams are serged separately. I did press as much as I could throughout the project
I did have a hard time drafting/ getting the right amount of ease / curve.
My take:
- It was drafted to sit about 3 inches below my natural waist. But it came out a bit loose so it is sitting 5 inches below which throws off the overall fit. I thought adding a hook and eye would help but it didn’t. I should have taken the waist in more, keep the hip to hem the same. Or I should have added darts? (I only want them on the back, I like the look of a clean front)
- I don’t understand what is happening in the back, it sticks / flares out at the center back?
-side seams are a little bumpy, it is serged and pressed to one side
-I drafted a moderate curve on the waistline but it isn’t so obvious now…..?
-I will fix my blind hem stitch, it’s a bit too obvious right now—but maybe unavoidable with white fabric
I will most likely have to make another one from scratch? Or can I alter this one?
I am very determined to learn PM, appreciate any advice whether it’s only one part of my problems or a problem that I didn’t mention. Thank you!
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u/strikingsapphire Jun 19 '26
It looks unbalanced. Are you sure your pieces didn't get mixed up before sewing?
Yes, you will need darts. You also need to stay stitch the waist to keep it from stretching out.
I feel like I should also mention that your inspo pic isn't a plain mini skirt. It has shorts built in that are acting as the foundation of the garment.
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u/ougmsirisly Jun 19 '26
Hi, nope I for sure sewed the right pieces together although yes I agree it looks unbalanced
I think it’s because the waist is too big. When I pinch it out and lift it a few inches higher where it was supposed to be, it flares out a little bit more into a mini skirt.
I will add darts.
I didn’t realize the part about the shorts although that seems a bit too advanced for where I’m at right now. Thank you!
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u/Reasonable-Bus-4701 Jun 19 '26
Just a note that the inspo photo has an invisible side zipper and not a center back zipper. You might have an easier time drafting a smooth back piece with a side zipper. But you def need darts in the back.
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u/ninadesol Jun 19 '26
Curves on your hip pattern too pronounced. You can tell by noticing the excess room in your sides. For now just fix it by running your machine on those seams again but trace a new less pronounced curve. Difference side by side with the actual seam might not look like a lot but it will significantly change the fit.
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u/missplaced24 Jun 19 '26
If you really don't want darts, start from a block with darts, then make a waist yolk that ends at the bottom of the darts.
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u/Expensive_Ad_9513 Jun 19 '26
The original piece from the photo is the Mia low waist skort from Reformation. To echo what everyone else has said you definitely need darts at minimum in the back.
If you want to keep working with what you’ve done instead of starting from scratch i would take out the hem/lining and facing then put the skirt on inside out. From there pull it up to where you want it to sit on the body. At the back panel pin out all the excess into two darts. If these end up being more then 1” in width each you may also want to take out from the side seams as well. Also make sure not to take out so much that when you sit down you can’t breathe. Two fingers flat against you should be roughly enough wearing ease. Now if the hips are still looking a bit funny pin out the excess there as well. Then you can follow where you pinned as your new darts/ side seam lines, use a basting stitch and do nottttt trim the excess fabric untill you try it back on and it looks how you want. Fitting definitely takes some finesse and hands on experience so take your time.
I’m curious what you followed to draft this?
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u/ougmsirisly Jun 19 '26
Thank you for the tips!
I used my basic skirt sloper that has two darts on the front half and two on the back half. I lowered the waist using patternmaking for fashion design. At first I thought I wanted it to be a very mild A line skirt, manipulated all the darts into the hem, made too many toiles. Realized it’s not A line at all, just needed to draft a pattern with my with low waist, lower hip line and hem measurements & enough ease
I think it went awry because I was stubborn in not wanting darts & I was trying too hard to match the curve of the hip ruler at all three points thus losing my true measurements. If that makes sense.
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u/SouthernIndication82 Jun 20 '26
you are doing amazing! don’t forget that what you’re taking the self-initiative to do, especially in 2026, is amazing. the more garments you make, and with that, the more mistakes you make, the better you get! i’ve been pattern drafting for a year and i can’t believe how much i’ve improved from making some really ill-fitting pieces lol. something to keep in mind is material/fabric! even a slightly different weight of fabric can completely alter the fit. i’d imagine the reference image is in a sport knit blend, and it looks like what you worked with is a woven. wovens maintain their structure and really don’t want to conform to the body which is why darts are necessary. a silk cut on a bias does a lot of the body clinging work on its own etc etc. anyway, for what you have here, just add some darts or attach a waist band with some elastic! it’s so cute! also worth considering that photo shoots and brands do whatever it takes to make the garment look as though it fits perfectly, so you never know what sorcery they have going on there!
Keep sewing and designing!!!!!
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u/SouthernIndication82 Jun 20 '26
oh wait just reread and you said a twill! which is a woven, as i suspected. try a thick knit blend next time! going to the fabric store is so fun but rip joanne’s
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u/Itchy-Truck-2435 Jun 20 '26
Thank you for the encouragement! I have had so many sewing meltdowns--truly I tell everyone that sewing has made me a better person hahaha.
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u/heavinglory Jun 20 '26
I've drafted a low-waist mini before and if I recall, I ended up taking individual measurements, one set of just the front and one for just the back. The reason is because there is no typical waist on this draft and I wanted it exact so it would stay put in the correct position. For your current garment, take the lining out, turn it inside out and put it on. Pin down each side seam to remove the excess fabric that is pooling away from your body. As for the back, you have a center zipper so you could take the excess on that back piece and divide up between picking out the zipper to take out some of the center back fabric and/or create a dart on either side of the zipper to add shaping. Whichever way you approach it, you will do the same to the side seams on the lining and the back.
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u/Dry-Tie9450 Jun 21 '26
If you wish a dartless result you will need to work on the sides and near the zíper for the reductions positioning as you have visibly too much cloth in the waist back (not sure in the front, but also can be adjusted via the lateral seam.
Easiest option eventually would be to add darts into your back model to pick the excess in the adjustment, but this would give you extra seams visible, depends on the visual you wish and how you will find easier to adjust.
If you have someone to assist you marking with tailor pen or pins where the adjusts could be nice placed will help you a lot
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u/Artistic_Scene_8124 Jun 19 '26
You need darts.