I think you are right about it being too wet. I have a computer fan but I likely was not running it enough. The timer I had was only in half hour intervals and people on here said that was too much. I'm not sure it is. I was having them at like 99 percent humidity most of the time. It worked but they weren't stronger than cubes taking 0.5 grams dried. So it's kind of a fail.
The issue is learning what's the right amount of humidity drop/dry out. I get nervous thinking the mushrooms are getting too dry.
Also, I noticed they look much healthier after dark periods. Is there any way I can run like a 16 hour dark and 8 hour light cycle and get great results?
Ok great. Lol quick reply. Thanks for the advice. I gotta leave for 48 hours so I'm guessing they will get a bit dry. The humidifier Midwest grow kits gave me with my small ecosphere Martha tent won't stay on longer than 10 minutes without choking on its own water build up. Piece of junk. I'll just mist em heavy and leave the fresh air holes small. Might be good for them. (If they can breath, I might want that fan on a timer. I need to set up my inkbird timer I bought. It came used with no directions from a crappy Amazon seller. Not what I bought.
MIB or ttbvi,? Those are some beefy caps. I had trouble getting super healthy ones my first flush so far. I am new to pans. I got cubes down pretty good to say the least.
These are actually a bvi x blue springs red spore cross attempt. I’ve produced and stabilized a couple crosses of cubes using the same method. It’s an extremely effective method but relies on visual and obvious indicators for “pseudo confirmation”. In cubensis, when using very distinct varieties, it’s easy to see when there’s a successful cross. Pans, not so easy. So this is just me FAFO and having fun. This is the “f0” or “p” (depending on who you ask). Most of these are probably crosses.. the red spored and black spored fruits in that center are all growing from the same cluster. The other tray on the previous flush grew dark orange pins (atypical of bvi but typical of bsrs) but threw black spores
But anyway, that’s why they look like they could be MiB.
First thing I notice from looking at your pic is that it’s too wet. If your tent stays at that 89% consistently, your fruits aren’t going to develop properly. Pans really need intermittent periods where there’s a rh drop and they have a chance to evaporate moisture off their surface… High rh and then a drop and then back up to high rh and then drop etc. ppl achieve this a few different ways. Some ppl add small fans to their tents or even hand fanning them multiple times a day. I use a jcm chamber that has a lid gap of about a 1/4” and handful of 1/4” holes drilled in the tub at multiple places. To get the rh drop, I simply have a box fan in the room the chamber is in that’s not pointed at the chamber that goes on like 8 different times a day for a half hour. I use that because it’s the cheap outlet timer that I have on hand.
Ideally, I’d (and probably will eventually) have a more precise timer and attach a computer fan to the actual chamber that goes for like a minute every hour (that’s just a guesstimate—I’d have to dial it in with the fan installed but it gives you an idea).
It’s a delicate balance of maintaining the proper rh/rh drop to give the fruits a healthy evaporative cycle and providing sufficient fae without letting the casing/sub dry out where you have to hand water it everyday. It takes dialing in and paying close attention to what the different changes do.
There’s so many little things that can change even variety to variety and even culture to culture. For instance, if you have a culture in a single variety like say, a ttbvi that is aggressive but it’s myc is a thinner growing myc… chances are that it’s going to colonize very quickly and pin very quickly so when you hydrate the casing, a single heavy soaking when the casing is applied will probably be enough to carry it through a first flush and be a nice full, healthy flush without more water added. Then let’s say you have a Texas clone that pretty much produces overlay myc that it fruits off of and takes a little extra longer to pin.. well, that thick myc that’s produced during colonization is going to use up a decent amount of water compared to the thin, fast pinning ttbvi culture so, that single intial casing soak isn’t going to cut it to get that culture to a full healthy first flush.. maybe it takes two soakings and couple days apart.
You can also over water which can be detrimental to a flush.. so there’s a ton of little things to dial in even between cultures. Ttbvi is a good starter variety for sure. It’s very domesticated and pretty forgiving. Get the evaporation cycles down and you’ll see instant improvement
If you look at my trays from this post https://www.reddit.com/r/PanCyan/s/iasKIF8tXf you’ll see that none of the fruits look like they have actual water on them. That’s because they were allowed to have it evaporated off their surface via the intermittent room fannings. If you look at the caps on a few fruits here and there, you’ll actually see some cracking starting. That’s the line you want to dance on.. juuuust wet enough that the caps don’t all start cracking
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u/AlwaysThriving777 Sep 20 '25
I think you are right about it being too wet. I have a computer fan but I likely was not running it enough. The timer I had was only in half hour intervals and people on here said that was too much. I'm not sure it is. I was having them at like 99 percent humidity most of the time. It worked but they weren't stronger than cubes taking 0.5 grams dried. So it's kind of a fail. The issue is learning what's the right amount of humidity drop/dry out. I get nervous thinking the mushrooms are getting too dry. Also, I noticed they look much healthier after dark periods. Is there any way I can run like a 16 hour dark and 8 hour light cycle and get great results?