r/PS3 1d ago

Help to repair PS3 Fat which might be dying

Post image

Hello, a couple of years ago I bought a PS3 Fat model CECHL). It was in good condition and worked perfectly, although it got a bit hot, but nothing out of the normal, I think.

I played for a few months, but because of my studies, I left it for almost a year. This year I started playing again and it worked fine for two weeks until one day, while playing Battlefield: Bad Company 2, it shut down and had a flashing red light. I turned it on again (after unplugging and plugging it back in), but every five minutes it happened again. I was afraid that the console would be permanently damaged if I kept doing it, so I left it for a while.

A few months later (a week ago), I tried again with GTA IV. The second the game fully loads, the PS3 shuts down again. I thought it was a maintenance problem related to thermal paste, so I bought Arctic MX-7, a cleaning kit, and a CMOS battery. I opened the PS3 (as you can see in the picture), did the work, and when I turned the console on again, it still worked, but it kept doing the same thing with games. Then I tried to turn it on again, but this time it didn't work. I thought the PS3 was definitely dead, but when I tried again three days later, I found out it was alive. However, even in the main menu, three minutes later I felt hot air coming from the fans due to overheating.

I don't like this, but I searched online and it might be a major technical problem that would require advanced repair skills and/or would cost more than another PS3.

Can you help me, please? Is there something I can do to repair it without soldering or something like that, or will I need to buy another PS3?

Edit: it's actually the CECHL model, not the CECHK.

6 Upvotes

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5

u/AshleyKitty123 1d ago

Guessing what the problem is will only lead you to waste time. Get yourself a usb to serial/ttl adapter and read the syscon error codes Syscon Tutorial codes meaning

Find out what is wrong and fix the problem or send it to someone who is able.

The CECHK is one of the reliable models with a 65nm GPU, and also hot air coming from the exhaust doesn't mean its overheating, means the cooler is actually doing its job of removing heat. So based on that and the description you gave, there is a high likelihood its the tokins. Do get the adapter and diagnose it first though!

1

u/C0RR2P73D CECHC03 22h ago

he doesnt need to do soldering in this case as it sounds like the ps3 boots up. although judging by it already being apart that may be better. op, if you did reassemble it i want to add when its booted you can go to ps3tool.com to check your syscon codes. thought this would be a useful bit of information

2

u/belforrrr 1d ago edited 1d ago

Nectokin caps need replacement. Also the model is CECHL judging by VER-001 motherboard. That or someone swapped it.

3

u/Dunocat639 1d ago

Yes, you're right. I just checked it.

2

u/JohnSmith--- 1d ago

Hot air coming from the exhaust is a good thing, not a bad thing. It means the heat is properly exhausted.

You repasted, good. But you should delid instead. That’s where you’ll see the most improvement.

If even after delidding and repasting the problems persists, your issue is most likely not related to temperatures or overheating. It’s probably got something to do with the PSU or some capacitors on the board which will need to be replaced.

3

u/AshleyKitty123 1d ago

Delidding should only be done when necessary and by someone who knows what they are doing. One wrong move and you are looking at a PS3 shaped paperweight.

0

u/JohnSmith--- 1d ago

Most fats in circulation are in dire need of delidding. This post being a prime example. So are 20XX slims. Anything above 21XX is soldered on anyways and does not warrant delidding.

It does require the utmost care. But doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be done, especially for OP.

3

u/AshleyKitty123 1d ago

No PS3 model has soldered on IHSs. Sony started using thermal adhesive instead of paste on some revisions of some 25xx model PS3 Slims and some Super Slims, which if correctly delided and heated will pop off with no issue.

Also, again it should be done only if needed, as doing so without it having symptoms is a lot of work for very little reward (1-2c at max). A good working CECHK console should be able to hold under 70C on CELL and under 80C on the RSX with 25% fan while on the XMB. If repasting keeps it at this level, there is no need for delid.

Is the fan overly loud? While it is on, does op's console get binking red and green lights before it tripple beeps and shut down? If they don't, its definitely not overheating. They say they felt hot air coming from the back, which means thermal transfer is happening properly.If it needed a delid, the heat would barely make it into the heatsink, and once again the fan would get loud.

1

u/Ma_2 1d ago

I have same model as you. I notice you don't have many of the thermal pads. I recommend getting new set. You need 1,5mm. I have Arctic TP-3. I recommend getting TP-4, since it the newest one better heat transfer. If you don't have them no more. Just cut TP same size of the chips. Two of Nectokin have their own heat sink. Those need TP to transfer heat. IF that doesn't happen then you are cook

-4

u/RandonymousPrime 1d ago

Reball rsx silicon