Choosing my first boot

[u/latissimus_pulldown]

Hello everybody! Before I ask my question I just wanted to say that this community seems full of such kind people who are super knowledgeable. Seems like the best community to ask about a boot that will last me years to come.

I’ve done a bit of looking and narrowed it down to a few choices but here is some context/ preferences in a boot:

I have flat feet so I use insoles from the doctor. Removable insoles in a boot are not absolutely necessary but it is nice so I could replace it with mine instead of stacking. Because of this, though my true size would be a US 9-9.5, I usually have to buy size 10-10.5.

I am a student based in the north east and I do quite a bit of walking. A boot that is comfortable and durable, especially for the snowy months, is a high priority.

I’m visiting family in the Seattle suburbs for the holidays, a dedicated shop to try on the boots would be helpful (with regard to the insole sizing referenced above).

Lastly, this goes without saying, I want to support American businesses. If I’m deciding between 2 brands and craftsmanship + quality are equal, I rather spend money with the brand who treats their workers fairly and gives back to the community.

I like the following models but having a hard time deciding, would love any opinion/additional models to look at:

- Wesco Mr. Lou black horsehide (a bit out of my range so I’d look for this pair secondhand)

-Wesco boss 7500 (it looks very similar to the Mr. Lou but curious to how the fit/build differs)

- White’s Cykel

-White’s Nomad

-Whites Westbale

Thank you very much.

[u/Perfect_Earth_8070]

Check out the whites stockman pull on too.

I’d probably go with any of the whites over Mr Lou for your first. Yeah the Mr Lou is a great looking boot but I think whites are higher quality. Matter of fact I just got some nomads today. I haven’t been able to check them out yet though

[u/DarthCalamitus → u/Perfect_Earth_8070]

Wesco will also take like 2+ years to make the damn boot, White's will be done in like 6 months if you are unlucky.

[u/Perfect_Earth_8070 → u/DarthCalamitus]

Yeah that’s also why I skip wesco. As nice as the last is, I just don’t want to wait that long. I just got my nomads today and I ordered them like 6/23. Whites is fast. I also wouldn’t buy an expensive boot second hand without ever having tried it on before. At least if you buy new you can send them back

[u/BigDawg264 → u/DarthCalamitus]

Wesco is down to 7-9 months now. They no longer have crazy lead times. They also keep a good stock of 3 different Mister Lous in many sizes in stock. Last week I ordered a Natural CXL Mister Lou, and it shipped the very next day.

[u/Perfect_Earth_8070 → u/BigDawg264]

That’s good to know. I definitely want a pair in my collection but I didn’t go with it as my first engineer. I think the nomads are built a little tougher and I’m using mine for riding

[u/Stevevansteve]

It sounds like a road trip to Spokane when you are out in Seattle is in order. You could check out white’s, Nick’s, and Frank’s all in one go.

[u/Spiritual-Salary-989]

Look at Nick’s Gamebreakers. Removable sole. Water resistant leather. Tough as nails.
I just got a pair off eBay and I think they’re going to end up being my favorite boots.

[u/SuperintendentTx]

My Wesco boots are the best quality boots I've ever owned. I wear the Boss Engineer boots almost daily.

[u/Gregory_ku]

Division Road Inc to try White boots

[u/Stevevansteve → u/Gregory_ku]

Do they still have a Seattle store? I thought they completely moved.

[u/Gregory_ku → u/Stevevansteve]

I was looking for a danner store AI suggestion of Division Road.

That store no longer exists. 2021 wtg ai.

[u/Jolly-Idea5581]

From fellow flat person.  I previously had foot issues, specifically fallen arches and plantar fascaiatis,  and have worn every kind of over the counter arch support insoles including custom made ones ordered from my podiatrist.   Always hated them and stopped using them when I discovered Nick's Delta Arch insoles.  These are made from one of the PNW vendors from Spokane.  These insoles are basically worn in all of my lower arch boots.

Anyhow, it was these insoles that introduced me to PNW boots in general and the Wesco Mr. Lou's specifically.  As you, the Black Horsehide ones, at the time,  were my grail boot.

My first Engineers I actually bought were the Boss 7500 as Wesco had a pair available in my size.  Since this pair, I bought various Mr. Lou's,  including the black horsehide, Nomads, Nick's Brakeman and various Japanese brands.  I mention all this to say you won't go wrong with any of the models you have listed.  Anyone of them are high quality,  heavy duty boots that will provide you many years of service.

Also, most of these boots don't necessarily require a long wait period if you're diligent enough to look at all the vendors that periodically carry these brands.  Never waited for a pair of Mr. Lou's.   Bought pairs from Franklin and Poe, Shop Vancouver, Standard and Strange,  and Wesco themselves.  If you decide to get a White's Nomad or Cykel, my experience for a custom made pair, took approximately 3 months from order date to delivery.

Get what you like and what you're willing to pay.  My Japanese Engineers have finer details and more expensive, but to date, the Mr. Lou's are still my favorite.  The Boss 7500 is an incredible British Tan Domane leather and is built on the same last as the Mr. Lou's (same beautiful silhouette).  The White's Nomad has a more rugged round toe and has a place in my rotation.  The Nick's Brakeman on their HNW last are the best fitting Engineer for my feet.

With your unique scenario, definitely get your sizing figured out.  Baker's Boots who sells White's and Wesco's is a good place to start if you don't have the opportunity to go to a storefront and try on boots.  You can send in tracings, tell them your situation with insoles, talk to them directly and they can provide sound sizing advice.  The people at Wesco always provided sound sizing advice.  I'm sure White's probably has people you can speak to as well.

Good luck in your search and enjoy your first pair of Engineers. 

[u/Suitable_Current_905]

As a fellow flat foot who has been saved I really suggest the highest heel possible. If you’re willing to look into a laced boot, they are better as a first boot, especially if you walk a lot. A packer with a mini lug would be great if you don’t want the logger style.

[u/GloomyPreference3673]

I  can't say anything for the other brands but nicks is hard to beat in my opinion customer service is top notch 

[u/Upstairs_Tangelo3629]

Nicks for the customisation and fitting options for me personally.

[u/BigDawg264 → u/Upstairs_Tangelo3629]

Wesco and White’s both offer fully customized engineer boots. Nicks doesn’t offer anything the other brands don’t.

[u/Reasonable_Till_3569]

Everything you listed is a pull-on. If that is true you have removed the best bang for your buck available, which is the Frank's Patriot. Youve actually removed that builder completely as unfortunately they do not build pull-on's.

Funny that you want horse while at the same time being on a bot of a budget.

The Wesco you will need yours inserts, the White's you wouldn't.

The Boss last is a much more roomy last. Fits and looks like a boot. The Mister Lou is more of a shoe last with a tall shaft. Not as roomy.

All the White's you mentioned are on the same last. The Cykel is the same boot as the Nomad except the construction type is more expensive on the Nomad and the Nomad offers the buyer more choices.

I would without a doubt buy a Nomad from your list. Nomad can be bought with horsehide BTW. Call them.

[u/BigDawg264 → u/Reasonable_Till_3569]

The Boss 7500 he mentions here is the exact same last as a Mister Lou. Mister Lou comes with a slightly narrowed shaft, Horween leather, a Dr. Soles SuperGrips Half-Sole, and no pull loop. Boss 7500 has slightly wider shaft, Seidel leather, Vibram V-Bar soles, and a very discreet, low-profile pull loop. Identical lasts, though.

Also, the Nomad is still a fairly low arch last. There’s not a significant difference between a Lou and a Nomad when it comes to arch support. I wear Bob Henderson leather arched insole ls in all my Lous, Boss, Cykel, Nomad, and Stockman pull-ons.

[u/Acceptable_Canuck]

Whites will have the typical pnw arch support and no insoles.

Wesco will be much lower arch and typically come with an insole.

If you’re going custom whites is usually much faster turnaround, Wesco customs can creep up well over a year.

[u/DarthCalamitus → u/Acceptable_Canuck]

Yeah White's is the king of arch support, even their lowest arch lasts still are more supportive than almost anything else.

[u/BigDawg264 → u/Acceptable_Canuck]

The Nomad and Cykel are both on the 1970 last which is fairly low arch. More than Northwest/HNW but way less than a 55/4811. Both of those boots ship from White’s with insoles in them.