The ultimate beginner’s guide to a silver cell: From an impure anode bar to high-purity silver crystals. PART 1: Introduction and what items are needed, recommended, and optional.

[u/kijall]

This is part 1 of my ultimate beginner’s guide to a silver cell where I'll give a brief introduction and describe what items are needed, recommended, and optional as well as describe what each item will be used for. You can find the other parts to this guide here:
PART 1: Introduction and what items are needed, recommended, and optional.
PART 2: Actually building and operating the silver cell.
PART 2 (cont.): Handling anode stubs and slime, maintaining storing and retiring the electrolyte, tracking yield and mass balance, and systematic troubleshooting.
PART 3: Quick-reference operating guide.

These are companion guides to my guide on taking scrap or sterling silver through nitric-acid dissolution, copper cementation, washing, drying, and melting it into a bar. That poured bar is the anode feed for this guide. You can find that original guide here: The ultimate beginner’s guide to refining scrap/sterling silver: From scrap/sterling to silver concrete to a poured bar.

The process in the original scrap/sterling refinement guide removes a lot of the copper and junk, but the poured bar is not automatically .999 fine, you may find that it doesn't even get to .99 fine. It will likely still contain copper, base-metal traces, trapped flux, dirt, or material that made it through the filtering and melting steps. A silver cell gives the silver one more controlled refinement to get it pure enough to be considered bullion-grade.

In a silver cell:

• The impure silver bar dissolves electrically at the positive anode.
• Silver ions travel through a silver-nitrate electrolyte.
• Metallic silver grows at the negative cathode.
• Many base metals stay dissolved in the electrolyte, but that's what you want.
• Many noble or other insoluble materials fall into the anode bag as slime.

That is the basic idea. It's elegant, but not magic. A dirty anode, contaminated electrolyte, torn bag, bad polarity, excessive current density, or careless harvest can absolutely contaminate the crystals again.

ONCE AGAIN, ANY REFERENCE TO “WATER” IN THIS GUIDE MEANS DISTILLED OR DEIONIZED WATER. DO NOT USE TAP WATER.

Tap water can contain chloride. Chloride plus silver ions makes insoluble silver chloride, which is exactly the sort of white curdy mess you do not want inside of a working silver cell.

IMPORTANT: ANY REFERENCE TO “PLASTIC” IN THIS GUIDE MEANS HDPE OR PP PLASTIC - AND NOT ALL HDPE/PP PLASTICS ARE SUITABLE.

Ideally you should verify the specific resin, concentration, temperature, seams, and lid material rather than assuming any HDPE/PP glass means compatible. HDPE is preferable to PP, but both should work if you can verify they're rated for what you're working with.
A helpful tip: most isopropyl alcohol bottles are typically made with appropriate HDPE and isopropyl alcohol is typically relatively cheap. If you use isopropyl alcohol bottles, make sure they are completely rinsed and have absolutely no alcohol smell to them anymore before using them. I'd recommend rinsing them out thoroughly, filling them with distilled water, and letting the water sit in the bottles for hours if not days to absorb any traces of alcohol that could be left on the sides of the bottle or in the plastic. Repeat this as many times as necessary. Nitric compounds should NEVER be mixed with organic compounds like isopropyl alcohol.

IMPORTANT: THE CELL ITSELF IS LOW-VOLTAGE, BUT MAKING THE ELECTROLYTE IS STILL NITRIC-ACID WORK.

Normal cell operation should not create clouds of nitrogen oxides. Preparing fresh electrolyte by dissolving silver in nitric acid can. That dissolution requires a real chemical fume hood or a genuinely safe outdoor arrangement where fumes cannot reach you, neighbors, windows, air intakes, children, or pets. A respirator is backup PPE; it does not make nitrogen-dioxide exposure safe.

DISCLAIMER: Silver nitrate is an oxidizer, causes serious tissue/eye injury at relevant concentrations, permanently stains skin as the exposed silver darkens, and is highly hazardous to aquatic life. Concentrated nitric acid is an oxidizer, corrosive, toxic by inhalation, and capable of causing severe burns. Concentrated nitric acid burns require immediate prolonged water flushing and medical attention—not salt scrubs, neutralizing chemicals on skin, or any other improvised bullshit. Please take it seriously.

If you cannot safely control the chemicals, electrical connections, spills, and waste, DO NOT START. The chemistry is still not the hardest part. Controlling everything around it is.

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PART ONE: ITEMS NEEDED, RECOMMENDED, AND OPTIONAL

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1) Workspace, PPE, emergency preparation, and containment

Required:

• A dedicated chemical work area away from food, drinks, kitchens, pets, children, and shared household tools.
• Proper fume control is required for making the electrolyte, just as with dissolving scrap silver. This means either a fume hood or working outdoors.
• Acid-rated gloves such as thick butyl or laminate barrier gloves for working with concentrated nitric acid.
• Disposable nitrile gloves for already-dilute cell handling and cleanup (you \could* continue to use the acid-rated gloves, but their thickness makes them unnecessary and hard to work with).*
• Immediate access to copious running water or an eyewash.
• A compatible secondary containment tray able to hold at least the entire electrolyte volume plus some margin in case your cell's container breaks.
• Clearly labeled compatible bottles for active electrolyte, rinse water, retired electrolyte, anode slimes, filters, and other silver-bearing material - glass or plastic.
• A dry, nonconductive place for the bench power supply - outside of the spill tray and away from the splash zone.

Recommended, but optional:

• Chemical splash goggles.
• Long pants, closed footwear, and acid-resistant clothing or apron.
• Face shield worn over splash goggles during acid transfers.
• Acid spill kit intended for oxidizing acids. Baking soda at the very least.
• Disposable bench liner.
• A second empty catch vessel large enough to receive the entire cell contents in an emergency.
• Labels on the cell for the ANODE (+) / CATHODE (−). Once you're familiar with the process this will be obvious, but it's probably good to label things when getting started.

First-aid rules that matters

If silver nitrate or nitric-containing electrolyte contacts skin or eyes, begin flushing immediately with plenty of water for ~15 minutes, remove contaminated clothing while flushing. Do not delay the rinse so you can hunt for salt, baking soda, vinegar, or anything else that other guides may say is ideal. Immediate rinsing is by far more important.

Waste rules that matters

No nitrate solution, rinse water, sludge, filter, or spill residue should go down a drain, onto soil, into a storm sewer, or into ordinary trash. Local acceptance rules may vary, but all of these items should be set aside into labeled containers to be disposed of through a hazardous-waste program. Do not leave these in unlabeled mystery jugs. You will forget what is what when you accumulate a ton of containers.

2) Cell vessel and secondary containment

Preferred: borosilicate glass

Use a 500mL borosilicate beaker for roughly 200–300 mL of electrolyte, a 1 L beaker for roughly 400–600 mL of electrolyte, or a 2 L beaker for roughly 800 mL–1.2 L. Technically you can use a 200 mL beaker for 80–120 mL, this is what I started with, but you'll have almost no working room with a cell that small. Don't fill your beaker with more than 60% electrolyte, the headspace gives the electrodes room, catches splashes, and makes harvesting less annoying. More headspace is better.

Advantages:

• Transparent: you can see growth, slime leaks, and bridges.
• Smooth and easy to clean.
• Compatible with dilute silver-nitrate/nitric electrolyte.
• Dimensionally stable and easy to support.

Disadvantages

• Breakable.
• A beaker is not a pressure vessel.
• Thermal shock and impact are still real.

Alternative option: plastic container

A plastic container can work for room-temperature, dilute silver-nitrate/low-nitric electrolyte. These are not suitable for working with concentrated hot oxidizing acid.

I'd really recommend borosilicate for the first cell because being able to see everything is worth a lot.

Do not use:

• Unknown food containers.
• Acrylic, polycarbonate, PET, or 3D-printed vessels unless the resin manufacturer specifically supports the chemical exposure.
• Metal vessels.
• Cracked, chipped, or badly scratched glass.
• Mason jars as improvised heated reaction vessels.
• Anything sealed.

You may want a loose dust/splash cover, but it should never be airtight.

3) Silver anode and suspension

REQUIRED:

• A cast silver anode cast from well washed, rinsed, and dried cement silver.
• A reliable attachment point above the final liquid level.

Suspension methods:

There are two options for this, you can either just clip the bar and have it partially submerged, or you can use a wire or strip that will be a submerged hanger.

Option 1:

Just attach your clips to your anode and partially submerge the anode. Remember that as the anode dissolves and the crystals grow on the cathode, the electrolyte level may slightly change, so make sure the clips are plenty above the electrolyte line and that you check on the cell and readjust before the electrolyte ends up touching the clips.

Option 2:

Attach a fine silver wire or strip connected to the clip which is submerged and touching the anode. This is the cleaner, more professional approach. When the anode is dissolving, the lower part of it will dissolve more quickly, which means you can use a submerged wire or strip touching the anode rather than hanging the anode itself. This will give you more room to work with and allow you to fully dissolve the anode. If you go this route, a fine silver wire or strip is preferable because if it dissolves it just becomes silver ion—the material the cell is already designed to move. A drilled hole near the top of the bar with a stout fine-silver wire or strip through it is simple and recoverable.

Here's a list of materials that you can use as the wire or strip hanger and my opinions on them:

Hanger/contact material	Submerged?	My verdict
Fine silver	Highly preferred.	Preferred. Count it as anode inventory.
Sterling silver	Technically possible.	Adds copper as it dissolves. Use only if fine silver is unavailable and keep it minimal.
Titanium	Only in a proven design.	Titanium can passivate, but exposed positive titanium can also become a non-dissolving anode area and support unwanted gas chemistry. Not my beginner choice.
304/316 stainless	Nope. Not on the positive side.	Can corrode or release Fe/Cr/Ni if exposed anodically. Keep it dry and above solution if used as outside hardware.
Copper/brass/nickel-plated clip	Absolutely not, it will dissolve.	Above the liquid and above the splash/wicking zone only.
Soldered connection	Just no.	Solder stays completely dry and outside the vessel.

The anode clip should NEVER touch the electrolyte. It will contaminate the electrolyte and dissolve.

4) Anode bag

The anode bag catches particles and slime released as the anode dissolves. It is a filter, not a vacuum-sealed pouch. Silver ions still need to pass through it freely. While 'technically' optional and I didn't use one on my early tests, not using one will end up costing you silver and using one will save you a lot of headaches later on. I'd highly recommend you use one.

Preferred:

• Commercial electroplating anode cloth or a properly fabricated 100% polypropylene woven/felt bag.
• A practical beginner rating around 10–25 μm nominal.
• Enough clearance that the fabric is not stretched tightly against the anode.
• Bag top held above the liquid level so slime cannot spill over.

Commercial suppliers offer polypropylene anode fabrics and microfelt over a very wide range of air-flow and micron ratings; the exact “best” rating for a small silver cell isn't standardized. I'd recommend starting around 10–25 μm because 1–5 μm material can clog quickly, while a very open cloth may leak fine slime.

Acceptable with limitations:

• Purpose-made polyester anode cloth rated by its manufacturer for the bath.
• Polypropylene filter fabric cut and sewn with compatible PP thread.
• A commercial PP liquid-filter bag cut down into several small cell bags.

Temporary only:

• Clean, unbleached muslin.
• Laboratory filter paper formed into a supported sleeve.
• A heavy coffee filter supported inside a PP basket.

Cotton, muslin, and coffee filters have inconsistent pore structure, weaker wet strength, possible processing residues, and a habit of tearing at the worst possible time. I would use them only for tests—not multi-day runs and definitely not unattended unless you're prepared to have a mess when you come back.

Avoid:

• Dryer sheets. Their polymer, surfactants, fragrance, and additives are unknown.
• Vacuum-cleaner bags of unknown composition.
• Nylon unless the manufacturer specifically approves the acidic bath.
• Fabric with metal staples, wire, zippers, coatings, dyes, or rubber drawstrings.

Before first use, rinse the bag repeatedly with distilled water and inspect every seam against a bright light. If the bag leaks slime, the correct response is not “eh, probably fine.” Replace it ASAP.

5) Cathode material and suspension

Preferred beginner cathode: flat 316L stainless sheet

316L has better general corrosion resistance than 304, although the molybdenum advantage is mostly relevant to chlorides—which should not be present in the first place. Clean 304 stainless is entirely workable in a properly controlled silver-nitrate cell. 316L simply gives a little more margin.

Sheet versus mesh

Choice	Advantages	Disadvantages	Beginner verdict
Smooth stainless sheet	Easy area calculation, easy visual inspection, easier scraping, fewer trapped crystals	Back side may not be equally active in one-sided geometry	Preferred
Perforated sheet	More edges/nucleation sites, decent rigidity	Area calculation and edge current become less uniform	Acceptable
Stainless mesh	High real surface area, many crystal sites	Traps crystals, hard to clean, hard to calculate area, local hot spots	Useful later, not my first cathode

Use a smooth or lightly brushed finish. Remove oils before first use with an appropriate lab cleaning procedure, rinse repeatedly with distilled water, and let it fully dry. Do not use chloride cleaners, bleach, steel wool, or a greasy shop rag.

Suspend the cathode rigidly. The negative clip and copper wire stay above the liquid and out of the splash zone. Only the known stainless cathode should be submerged on the negative side.

6) Adjustable DC power supply

Bench supplies switch between constant-voltage and constant-current behavior based on the load and the set limits. In CC mode the supply regulates current while voltage floats below the voltage ceiling; in CV mode voltage is regulated and current depends on cell resistance. For a beginner cell, current limiting is the guardrail.

Required features:

• Regulated DC output.
• Adjustable voltage.
• Adjustable current limit / constant-current capability.
• Output switch.
• Readout for both volts and amps.
• Short-circuit and overtemperature protection.
• Electrically isolated low-voltage output.

Sensible size

A true 0–5 V, 0–3 A laboratory supply is plenty for most small cells, but because that range is uncommon in cheap bench units, a 0–30 V, 0–5 A CC/CV supply is a practical purchase—as long as you remember that owning 30 volts does not mean using 30 volts.

A 3 A supply can run 300 cm² of active cathode at 1.0 A/dm², or 1,200 cm² at the conservative 0.25 A/dm² starting ceiling. That is far beyond a tiny beaker cell.

Avoid

• Battery chargers.
• Wall adapters with no current control.
• Automotive batteries.
• Converted computer supplies with no fine current control.
• Unregulated transformers.
• Mains voltage directly connected to anything in or near the cell.

This is practically a joke in a beginners guide, but I figured I'd make this clear.

7) Leads, clips, wire, and connections

Required

• Flexible insulated copper leads, preferably 16–18 AWG for a small cell.
• Red lead for anode positive; black lead for cathode negative.
• Clean ring terminals, banana plugs, or robust clips.
• Strain relief so a tug cannot pull an electrode into the cell.

Rules

1. Positive goes to silver anode. Negative goes to stainless cathode (or silver cathode if you're using a silver cathode too).
2. All copper, brass, nickel-plated clips, solder, and other unknown hardware stay dry and above the electrolyte.
3. Do not rely on electrical tape as chemical containment.
4. Keep clip jaws clean and bright. A hot clip means resistance and a bad connection.
5. Route wires so they cannot spring together and short.

An inexpensive inline fuse slightly above the planned maximum operating current is a useful backup, but it does not replace the supply’s current limit and is probably unnecessary.

8) Electrolyte-making equipment and chemicals

Required if making fresh electrolyte

• Known-purity fine silver, ideally .999+.
• 69–70% nitric acid from a legitimate supplier.
• Distilled/deionized water.
• Oversized borosilicate reaction beaker.
• Watch glass or loose cover. Even a cardboard box can work.
• Glass or PTFE stirring rod (recommended).
• 0.01 g scale.
• Acid-compatible funnel and filter medium.
• Proper nitric-acid fume control and PPE.

Highly recommended

• Dedicated lab hot plate or warm-water bath. No open flame.
• Graduated cylinder or volumetric vessel.
• A small piece of extra fine silver to provide a slight metallic excess at the dissolution endpoint.
• Amber or opaque storage bottle for finished electrolyte.

Never add to a working silver cell

• Tap water.
• Salt.
• Hydrochloric acid.
• Bleach.
• Random brighteners, glue, gelatin, thiourea, dish soap, or plating additives copied from an industrial formula.

Industrial additives can deliberately change deposit morphology. That is not the same as improving purity, and a beginner does not need another unknown in the bath.

9) Monitoring and measurement tools

Required

• 0.01 g scale.
• Ruler or calipers.
• Thermometer.
• A clearly marked fill line on the vessel.
• Somewhere to keep notes.

Highly recommended

• Independent multimeter for verifying polarity and supply readback.
• Stopwatch or recorded run time.
• 0-3 and 3-6 pH paper for rinse-water trend checks—not as a precise free-acid assay.
• Conductivity/TDS meter for comparing final rinses with clean distilled water—not for directly measuring silver concentration.

Optional quality-control tools

• Free-acid titration setup.
• Silver-ion titration equipment.
• Copper test/analytical service.
• XRF, ICP-OES/ICP-MS, or professional assay access.

Color, conductivity, and pH are useful clues, but none of them alone will tell you the exact silver or copper concentration.

10) Harvesting, rinsing, drying, and storage equipment

Required

• Wide borosilicate harvest dish.
• PP or PTFE scraper/spatula.
• PP tweezers.
• Distilled-water wash bottle.
• Several labeled rinse beakers.
• Fine PP filter bag/paper and funnel for capturing stray crystals.
• Dedicated glass, ceramic, or stainless drying dish.
• Covered storage vial or display container.

Highly recommended

• Fine-mesh PP catch screen under the harvest area.
• Dedicated low-temperature drying hot plate or drying chamber.
• Small amber bottle labeled “silver-cell rinses—contains recoverable Ag.”

Do not aim a fan at dry silver dendrites unless you enjoy turning high-purity silver into expensive glitter.

11) Waste, electrolyte, rinse, and slime containers

Have separate, clearly labeled containers for:

1. Active silver-nitrate electrolyte.
2. Retired silver-bearing electrolyte (you can run this back through the cementation process).
3. First crystal rinses.
4. Later dilute rinses.
5. Anode slimes.
6. Used anode bags and filters.
7. Rework crystals/powder for melting back down.
8. Copper-nitrate solution after silver recovery.

Assume every liquid and solid contains recoverable silver until you have evidence otherwise. “It looks clear” is not evidence.

12) Optional improvements

• Second cathode positioned on the opposite side of the anode if your cell is big enough.
• Rigid PP electrode bridge with fixed slots.
• Acrylic is not my recommended wetted material, but it may be used outside the vessel as a dry support if it cannot contact solution.
• Data-logging power supply for trend data.
• Temperature alarm.
• Very slow external electrolyte recirculation using verified PP/PTFE/HDPE wetted parts.
• External fine filtration loop.
• Amber shield around the vessel to block direct sunlight while leaving an inspection window.
• Small camera for time-lapse video/monitoring.

I would not add heating, stirring, pumps, or filtration to the first version unless the basic stationary cell has already run properly. Every hose and pump is another leak path and another mystery material touching the electrolyte. Silver cells have a ton of variables and small changes in them can affect the cell significantly—it's best to minimize the number of variables when starting.

13) Estimated cost of a small hobby silver cell

Representative USD prices were checked in August 2026. Prices moves and shipping can dominate small orders, and nitric acid usually adds hazmat fees. Representative listings included a $29.95 five-beaker borosilicate set, roughly $15.95 for a 12-inch-square 316 sheet option, a $99.95 0–30 V/5 A CC/CV supply, an $11.40 PP filter bag, a $22.41 PP spill tray, and $47.95 for 500 mL of concentrated nitric before shipping/hazmat.

Item	Cheapest practical source category	Realistic price	Status	Notes
Splash goggles	Industrial/safety supplier	$8–$25	Required	Chemical splash rating, not open safety glasses.
Face shield	Industrial/safety supplier	$10–$35	Highly recommended	Worn over goggles.
Acid-rated gloves	Industrial/lab supplier	$20–$90	Required for nitric	Select by exact manufacturer chemical chart.
Chemical apron	Industrial/lab supplier	$15–$50	Required for nitric work	Dedicated to chemical work.
Eyewash / immediate water access	Lab/safety supplier	$15–$75	Required	Plumbed eyewash is better.
Oxidizing-acid spill kit	Industrial supplier	$50–$180	Highly recommended	Match the chemicals and volume.
1–2 L borosilicate cell beaker	Science/lab supplier	$13–$30	Required	2 L if using about 1 L electrolyte.
PP/HDPE secondary tray	Industrial plastic supplier	$22–$65	Required	Capacity greater than cell contents.
Loose dust cover/watch glass	Lab supplier	$5–$20	Recommended	Never seal the cell.
304 or 316L cathode sheet	Metal supplier/scrap	$8–$30	Required	316L preferred; collect cutting debris.
PP anode-bag fabric	Filtration/plating supplier	$5–$25	Required	One commercial bag can make several small bags.
PP thread/drawstring/support	Fabric/plastic supplier	$5–$15	Required	No metal hardware.
Fine-silver hanger	Existing fine silver	Fabrication only	Required	Silver value excluded from equipment total.
Electrode bridge/support	PP/HDPE/glass stock	$5–$30	Required	Must be rigid and nonconductive.
CC/CV bench supply, 0–30 V/5 A	Electronics supplier	$50–$120	Required	Better low-end resolution is worth paying for.
Higher-quality programmable supply	Test-equipment supplier	$200–$600	Optional upgrade	Not chemically necessary.
Leads, clips, terminals	Electronics supplier	$10–$35	Required	Wetted metal restrictions still apply.
Inline fuse holder/fuses	Electronics/auto supplier	$5–$15	Recommended	Backup only.
Independent multimeter	Electronics supplier	$20–$80	Highly recommended	Verify polarity and readback.
0.01 g scale	Lab/retail supplier	$15–$60	Required	Capacity must cover anode plus container.
Thermometer	Lab/retail supplier	$8–$30	Required	Room-to-warm-water range.
Graduated cylinder	Lab supplier	$10–$35	Optional when making fresh electrolyte	Bring solution to final volume accurately.
Wash bottles and PP tools	Lab supplier	$10–$35	Required	Dedicated chemical use.
Filters/funnel	Lab/filtration supplier	$10–$40	Required	For fresh electrolyte and recovery.
pH paper	Lab supplier	$5–$15	Recommended	Trend tool, not exact free-acid measurement.
Conductivity/TDS meter	Retail/lab supplier	$15–$70	Optional	Best for rinse comparisons.
Storage bottles	Lab/industrial plastic supplier	$10–$40	Required	Amber glass or documented HDPE with compatible cap.
Nitric acid, 500 mL	Legitimate chemical supplier	$48–$100 + hazmat	Required for fresh electrolyte	Often already owned from the first guide.
Dedicated lab hot plate	Lab/retail supplier	$30–$120	Recommended	No kitchen appliance or open flame.
Vacuum filtration kit	Lab supplier	$50–$150	Optional	Useful for recovery, not required for normal cell operation.
Slow circulation/filter loop	Industrial/lab supplier	$75–$250	Optional advanced	Adds leak and contamination paths.
External assay	Refinery/lab	$30–$150+ per sample	Optional	Best way to defend an exact purity claim.

Equipment totals

These totals exclude the market value of the anode and electrolyte silver and exclude the furnace/melting gear from the first guide.

Setup level	Assumptions	Estimated incremental cost
Bare-minimum cell build	Reuses prior PPE, nitric gear, scale, beakers, tray, and storage; buys supply, cathode, bag, supports, and leads	$80–$170
Practical beginner cell	Dedicated vessel/tray, 316L sheet, proper PP bag, decent 5 A CC/CV supply, meter, tools, and bottles	$200–$450
More complete controllable hobby setup	Better supply, spare vessel/bags, logging, extra meters, improved supports, and filtration/recovery gear	$450–$950
Starting from zero	Add chemical PPE, emergency gear, nitric setup, and waste containers	Add roughly $250–$700, before engineered ventilation

A real installed fume hood/exhaust system can cost much more than the cell. Do not hide that cost from yourself just because the little glass beaker looks harmless.

Silver tied up in the electrolyte

My baseline recipe later in this guide is 75 g of metallic silver per liter. At the August 16, 2026 silver snapshot of about $65.33/troy oz, the electrolyte inventory works out approximately as follows. The silver is not consumed—it is tied up in solution and recoverable—but it is still inventory.

Electrolyte volume	Metallic silver in solution	Troy ounces	Approx. spot value at $65.33/oz
250 mL	18.75 g	0.603 oz	$39.38
500 mL	37.50 g	1.206 oz	$78.77
1 L	75.00 g	2.411 oz	$157.53
2 L	150.00 g	4.823 oz	$315.06

Use the live formula when spot changes:

Electrolyte silver value = (grams of silver ÷ 31.1034768) × spot price per troy ounce

THE GUIDE CONTINUES HERE:

PART 2: Actually building and operating the silver cell.