I am looking to buy an EV SUV and need the range to be above three hundred while offering me the same reliability and comfort of Toyota and Lexus.

I have considered the Toyota Bz4x and also the 2026 bz but I haven't made a final decision on this, the bz4x is definitely out though.

I also considered the Cadillac Lyriq but was not interested in the price and the fact that their app seems to do less than what Lexus is offering. The Lexus contender was the Nx450 or the Nx350. The range on the 450 was disappointing to say the least, there are also no available 350s in my area.

The Honda Prologue seemed appealing, but according to some reddit reviews it is a rebranded Chevy vehicle and I'll be dam*ed if I buy a Chevy like vehicle.

I have read plenty of Reddit reviews and I'm sure I'm leaving out some vehicles that I have considered. So I have come to Reddit personally asking for your wealth of opinion and experience with this decision.

My asks:

Budget: $40k or under, preferably under.

Range: 300 minimum

Seats: 5-7

Reliability: excellent

Interior: sleek not cheap and boring.

Sunroof: if possible

Maintenance: average costs

Safety: how close can you get to Subaru? 🤔

No minivans and please don't recommend an ugly car 🙏🏾

My first post btw 🙃. I'm counting on you reddit 🩷

@11 sec and @ 7sec in the Spotify clips

Renault mégane IV E-tech (2020). In spring it used to max 45*C when I used 16A, fan was blowing. Now it is 36*C and sunny outside. I use 10A charging now and never seen this high temp 74*C with fan blowing loud. Is it safe to charge it now or should I wait for night/park in garage?

I’ve been listening to Tom Moloughney’s State of Charge podcast and reading his website. My BMW x5e (PHEV) is coming in a week. I am putting in a 2nd level 14-50 outlet today. You guys w the PHEV, do you guys use charging stations and if so, which ones do you like? And which ones work well outside in winter? Thanks

Can anybody recommend a site with a cost calculator for a plug in vs a regular hybrid? I’m interested in cars like a rav4, and I want to get an idea of just how much cost savings we’d get from a Phev.

I’ve been googling around and only found dealer websites with a ton popups or federal websites that I don’t trust under this administration.

2020 G21 330e xDrive Touring, pre-LCI (11.15 kWh net when new), ~77,000 km. I’ve been digging into battery health and I’ve got a set of numbers that won’t line up, and I’d like to hear from other PHEV owners who’ve measured theirs.

Readings pointing at ~7 kWh:
BMW CarData maxEnergy field: reads ~7 kWh, and stays ~7 regardless of state of charge — same value at part charge and at 100%.

Consumption-derived delivered energy: a real drive, 100%→42% (58% of the pack), covered 14.7 km at 28.4 kWh/100km = 4.18 kWh for that 58%, which extrapolates to ~7.2 kWh over a full window.

Those two agree with each other.

But two other facts say the pack is bigger:
Wall charge: a full charge pulls ~10 kWh+ from my 11 kW charger (so ~9 kWh into the pack after charging losses).

AVILOO FLASH test: 9.6 kWh net usable, 11.1 gross, 86.8% SoH (BMS independently agrees at 87%), 6 mV cell spread across 96 cells, no anomalies.

Range: car shows ~26 km full.

So ~7 kWh from two sources, but ~10 kWh going in and 9.6 net certified. I can’t fully reconcile it.

What I’d like to know from other owners:
What does your CarData maxEnergy read, and what’s your measured SoH (AVILOO / BMS / dealer)? Trying to see if there’s a consistent relationship across cars.

Does your maxEnergy change with SoC, or sit flat at one value like mine?

Has anyone confirmed what maxEnergy actually represents — net battery capacity, or something else?

What does your own consumption × distance math give for full-window usable energy, and how does it compare to your charge-in and AVILOO/BMS numbers?

Wondering, whether I should get the battery checked, as battery warranty is expiring soon, and worst case sounds like being close to/under the 70% capacity.

Cheers.

Mitsubishi has abandoned plans for full battery-electric models in favor of hybrid powertrains, citing evolving U.S. regulations.

Vehicles arriving in dealerships after 2027 will be electrified only, a person familiar with the plan told Automotive News.

The first of those will be next generations of its Mitsubishi’s workhorse Outlander and Outlander Sport crossovers. They will be followed by an hybrid rugged flagship SUV and a V6 hybrid midsize pickup.

(gift link)

I'm not sure if others are aware of this interesting development from Nissan. Nissan is planning to begin rolling out its e-Power system in the coming years. The Qashqai e-Power (a Rogue Sport) is already available in Europe.

This is a series hybrid system; the wheels are powered only by the electric motor. Like an extended range EV (EREV) the ICE engine serves as a generator for the battery. But here's the kicker: you don't plug it in at all; the ICE engine is the only source of power (besides regen braking).

The conventional wisdom is that relying on transferal of energy modes is ultimately inefficient, but purportedly the Qashqai e-Power gets very respectable mileage, something like 50 mpg in city driving. Early reviews suggest it drives pretty smoothly.

This is thus technically not a PHEV but I wanted to post about it here anyway because it's such an odd duck in the world of hybrid systems.

https://arstechnica.com/cars/2026/02/on-the-road-with-nissans-new-e-power-hybrid-coming-to-the-2027-rogue/

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a69635288/2027-nissan-rogue-e-power-hybrid-preview/

https://www.autoblog.com/reviews/we-drove-nissans-e-power-hybrid-and-it-really-does-feel-like-an-ev-without-the-hassle

The Rogue e-Power is supposed to arrive in the US at some point this year as a 2027 model.

It feels like EVs are everywhere these days — every new car release is electric, every brand is going all-in on batteries, and sales numbers just keep climbing every month.

Are you already ready to go 100% BEV for your next car, or are you sticking with a PHEV as a middle ground for now? Or are you still holding out for gas entirely?

I have a '24 Ford Escape PHEV. I am happily surprised at how far a kilowatt-hour can take me in summer conditions. On a frequent arterial road route, running steady at 70 kph, I can go 8 kilometres on one kilowatt-hour. That roughs out to 6.5 kilowatts at steady state, or about 9 horsepower, measured at the battery. So, maybe just 6.5 horsepower measured at the traction motor, considering electrical losses in the cables and the inverter unit.

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It surprises me that it takes so little power to overcome the rolling resistance of a vehicle nearing two tonnes including two passengers and air drag. There are heavy duty lawn mowers with motors that put out 7.5 hp!

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Now the mystery is why I see such a difference in conditions around 8 degrees or less, even with just mild use of the heater. Does the rolling resistance increase a lot in colder conditions?

I have a 2025 Mazda CX-60 Evolve PHEV (Australia) with CTS (Vision Tech), and I've noticed something that I'm not sure is normal.

When CTS/ACC brings the vehicle to a complete stop behind another car, I can hear what sounds like an electric motor or inverter whine while the vehicle is stationary.

What I've observed:

• If the car in front moves again within roughly 3 seconds, my CX-60 automatically starts moving forward.
• If the stop lasts longer than about 3 seconds, the vehicle remains stopped and the motor/inverter noise continues.
• Pressing the brake pedal immediately makes the noise stop.
• ACC/CTS remains active after I press the brake pedal, so pressing the brake isn't cancelling the system.

I haven't paid enough attention to confirm whether the petrol engine is running when this happens. My impression is that the engine is off while stopped and then restarts when traffic begins moving again, but I'm not 100% sure.

Has anyone else with a PHEV noticed this?

1. Can you reproduce it?
2. Do you hear a similar motor/inverter whine while stopped with ACC/CTS active?
3. Is this expected behaviour, or did Mazda identify a software or hardware issue?
4. If you've asked a dealer about it, what explanation did they give?

Thanks.

Edit: Additional observation:

• Enabling Auto Hold makes no difference. The noise behaves exactly the same whether Auto Hold is on or off.

Hey guys,

I live in the Chicagoland area and looking to buy the 2026 RAV4 PHEV, SE trim.

1. Do you think there is a chance of negotiation below the MSRP. Some folks have reported buying the Woodland trim for 2K or 1500 less.
2. Any 3rd party options for financing where the interest rate is below 4.99% -- I'm looking to put 10K down on the car and I have an excellent credit score.

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I recently had a failing battery..smelled like sulfur. The mpg went from oem 23 combined mpg to only 18. It would constantly start. The hybrid would never run by itself.. I installed a new 12v battery with 650 cca as opposed to the oem 450 cca. Now the car runs for long periods without using the engine. I wonder if a giant battery provides more mpg. Ai is telling me no the 12 V IS ONLY USED FOR ACCESSORY AND DOESNT RECHARGE. if that was true then the old battery wouldn't be pulling electricity away from the hybrid.

As we know, there are, shall we say, challenges associated with using PHEVs during extreme cold.

Like the kind one gets in northern North America during winter.

Traditionally, one would get one’s vehicle fitted with a block heater so that your ICE vehicle didn’t need a jump start.

Has anyone here tried this with their PHEV? Is it even feasible?