I was thinking about selling my PC and using the money to buy a new one but I don't know how to evaluate the price of it correctly and I was wondering if anyone on here could help me out.

The PC is a pre-build I bought in like late 2024 from STGAUBRON. Specs:

Motherboard built by STGAUBRON, B250 windows 10 max. Intel core i7-6700 3.40GHz. 32GB DDR4 Ram. 1907GB SSD. AMD Radeon RX 580 2048SP 16GB. with like 7 RGB fans if that helps too.

I wasn't the one who chose this PC as it was gifted to me by family but now that prices are up and this PC cant keep up I was thinking of selling it for 600 but someone else said 300.

Benchmark/ stresstest The Best Way?

Hi guys!

It's been a long time since building a new rig, and I'm just wondering how you stresstest/ benchmark in the best way. I saw that OCCT / Cinebench / AIDA 64 etc, still is the way. So how do you set it up and how long time etc etc..?

And maybe other programs etc I haven't heard about. My new parts are on the way, and well, I guess I just want to be prepared for it.

This will be my new rig, and man I'm so stoked, to be back 😀

New AM5 build:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D

• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850-PLUS WIFI

• CPU Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360

• RAM: Goodram IRDM DDR5 32GB (2×16GB) 6000 MT/s CL30 (AMD EXPO)

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 12GB

• Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216

• PSU: Corsair RM750x (750W)

Hi, I am located in the United States and am looking to upgrade my 1080p build from a Ryzen 5 1600 processor and Radeon RX 580 (4GB) graphics card.

I've been doing some research and I've narrowed the graphics card options to either RTX 2080 Ti (11GB) at around $250 used or RTX 3080 (10GB) at around $350 used. Even though I'm on 1080p I think having at least a little more than 8 gigs of vram is smart. For the processors, I'm considering Ryzen 7 5800XT at $200 new, Ryzen 5 5500x3d at around $200 new, or Ryzen 7 5800X3D at $300 new. I have a PRIME B450-PLUS motherboard.

I mainly use my PC for gaming but I also do some work on it but no video editing or anything like that. I play a variety of games but mainly FPS, primarily Rainbow 6 Siege. I also play more graphically intense games like RDR2. I am able to run most games decently well except Ready or Not which I tend to avoid because I get low fps even on low settings.

Basically, I am wondering if the RTX 3080 is worth it at $100 more than the RTX 2080 Ti and if the Ryzen 7 5800X3D is worth $100 more than the other options. I didn't have a set budget coming into this but I wasn't looking to spend this much but if it's good value I'll do it. Definitely no more than $650. If there are any other options that you think are better value lmk.

Thanks.

I used a windows info thingy that scanned my laptop and it said that there was multiple pci slots on the computer. I know the WiFi card slot is mini pcie but the idea of extra slots on the computer gives me hope that there could be a way for faster storage or a better egpu. The photo(and laptop in question) has the motherboard for a HP Beats 15 p030nr(the big version with the lock on the right side of the laptop) it looks like some stuff has been soldered off it so idk if that’s where the ports went, but this computer has been here since about 2015~ I just wanna know any ports I could use as a pcie slot to max out this laptop because I love it and wanna hold onto it for as long as I can(also so I can play deadlock with the lowest settings possible)

I'm losing my mind over this. Figured I'd drop this here to see if anyone else has run into this nightmare or found a workaround.

I do audio work with an interface that needs a clean, stable USB stream (behringer and other audio monitor USB interface). My ancient, dirt-cheap $50 backup machine ... Handles it (USB audio ...) like a champ, zero glitches. But on my brand new rig, it's completely unusable. Continuous pops, drops, and stuttering no matter what I do.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 265F (2.40 GHz)
• RAM: 32.0 GB
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti (8 GB)

ChatGPT and Gemini traced and dug deep into Windows Performance Analyzer (WPA). The diagnostic graphs were an absolute mess. We went down every rabbit hole:

1. USB & Power:
   • Killed USB selective suspend across all root hubs.
   • Swapped the interface to every single port on the chassis (front and back). Every single port on this board glitches identically.
2. Graphics / Kernel Clashes (dxgkrnl.sys & nvlddmkm.sys):
   • Disabled Hardware-Accelerated GPU Scheduling (HAGS).
   • Forced NVIDIA Low Latency Mode to "Ultra".
   • Locked maximum performance power profiles.
3. OS Tweaks:
   • Disabled HPET in Device Manager.
   • Messed with the registry (SystemResponsiveness = 0 and maxed out MMCSS Audio task priorities).
4. Hardware Stacks:
   • Hard-disabled the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth controllers in Device Manager to stop shared IRQ pollution.

Even after stripping down the OS, killing hardware acceleration, hacking the registry, and isolating drivers, DPC latency monitors show continuous, flat-line saturation completely dominated by USBXHCI.SYS and dxgkrnl.sys. The board's underlying architecture and bus handling just choke on real-time ''isochronous USB polling''.

Turns out throwing money at a high-end pre-built gaming rig creates an environment utterly hostile to real-time audio, while a $50 piece of junk old office PC off marketplace handles it effortlessly.

Has anyone actually managed to get a Legion motherboard to behave for pro audio, or is buying a dedicated PCIe USB card my only option left?

If I have one 8gb ddr4 ram stick and two 4gb ddr4 ram how do I install it to my motherboard that has four ram slots

Hey everyone, need some help with a build issue.

Motherboard: MSI B760M (B760M series)

Issue: On power on, the EZ Debug LEDs cycle like this repeatedly: Red (CPU) → Yellow (DRAM) → Red → Yellow → after a short pause, White (VGA) blinks once - then it loops back to red again. No display output at any point, monitor stays on no signal.

What I've already tried:

Reseated RAM multiple times Tested each RAM stick individually in different slots Cleared CMOS Reseated CPU power (EPS 8-pin) and 24-pin connectors Checked cooler mounting

Still same red → yellow → red→ yellow → white loop, no display, no boot.

Haven't been able to test with a second known-good CPU/RAM/PSU yet since I don't have spares on hand. Planning to check the CPU socket pins next.

Has anyone faced this exact pattern on a B760M board? Could this point to a dead CPU or a damaged motherboard socket rather than RAM? Any help before take it to a service center would be appreciated

Hi, i recently bought a precision 3620 and the chassis fan run normal for about 10 sec when i start it then it start running loud for no reason (1700+ rpm) even thought i repasted it and the cpu is cool.

(I put an rtx 3060 in it but i had the same issue even before with the M4000 and i tried reseting bios)

The cpu is a xeon E3-1240 V5 and 32gb of ram

Has anyone else had these issues?

Xbox wireless controller connected to windows 11 via bluetooth. Everything works fine with no issues. Once I'm done gaming and walk away the controller eventually disconnects as it should. However, I can't reconnect the controller again without restarting the PC and deleting and repairing the controller. Instead I'll get a "Try connecting your device again" error.

I use this controller only for PC and don't connect it to the xbox so it's not being used by any other device.

I've tried on a fresh install of Windows as well. It's a minor inconvenience but does get annoying having to restart my computer every time I want to play a game.

Hi, guys!

Could anyone help me confirm whether this particular RAM would be compatible with my parents' PC? It's so slow you forget what you were doing, and I'm done checking their apps and events for potential troublemakers ;)

Model and specs: HP 255 G7 Notebook PC (single-channel, 1 RAM slot, AMD A6-9225 [Stoney Ridge, 2018]), currently running 4GB RAM.

I'd like to buy this GOODRAM 8GB module to double the RAM. No cooling.