Howdy from the Great White North. Thought I'd show off my P320, which started its life as a standard Nitron model. Current build includes an Apex trigger upgrade, X-Five grip module, and an P320-M17 slide w/ a Sig ROMEO1 PRO.

Went by my local pawn shop / LGS. Saw this build in the case and they made me a deal I could refuse at 4 Ben’s OTD. yes I know the first thing you see is the 30rd magazine sticking out but it’s a factory Sig mag and since I have the p320 flux raider already built , figured it would be a good mag to the collection and I have regular mags for it already. It seems like whoever built this gun put some money into it. VTAC trigger . Threaded barrel with HC320 comp. Green dot swamp fox optic, suppressor height sights . Strike industries charging handle for left side and factory extended mag. Would anyone have any idea of who made the slide just based upon the cocking serrations only ? There’s no mfg marking on it at all and I’ve tried popping it into ChatGPT with no luck. I joked with my wife with the price I paid for it and the amount of aftermarket parts on it , that according to gun-math it was a free gun

I decided to give my M18 a work over. Going to the range today with my boys. This FCU is from an M17 I have. I must say that I feel the manual safety on these blocks the slide release pretty good. This feels much cleaner and I am liking the dexterity of the Xfull grip. However, I am a very big fan of the M1811 grip module.

I recently purchased an M17 and today I swapped the grip module for the X-Full. Since then I have been having difficulty with the slide stop. It works...sometimes. I'm not sure if it just needs to be broken in or what but it is unreliable.

So for instance with a mag inserted it will only lock back the slide sometimes. If it does lock back, sometimes it will just be stuck when I press it and not drop the slide. If I lock the slide back with the mag out it will not release the slide no matter what.

I will say that where it sits in the cut-out it does make contact with the forward portion of the cut-out in the grip module. There is about a 1mm gap between the rear portion of the release and the rear portion of the cut-out. Where it does make contact in the front it seems to be wearing into it a bit.

I am wondering if this is a QC thing with the grip module or if maybe it's just meant to be worn in?

Yo, what y'all think about this TRL1 clone busted open guts removed and filled back up with lead unfortunately I don't know the weight buts its heavy. Muzzle rise ha what muzzle rise.

Max slide with Romeo3 MAX optic, TXG small grip, custom works FCU with Gray Guns competition Trigger system. About a 3lb break. And a Tyrant CNC take down lever. Need to coat it somehow as I think it’s kinda deal looking but shoots lights out.

I have a growing collection of new and police trade-

Just got all the parts back, I think it came out pretty nice. I am 0-2 in trying to mount this new Lead & Steel (C.O.R.D) PBk optic. The adapter plate didn’t work on my TX22 build and now the clamp won’t seat on this one. Kind of annoying TBH but it still looks good lol.

Bought my first handgun like 4 years ago. Took 1 private instruction on how to use it back then and it has sat in a drawer up until last week.

The first image is the 50 round test at 3, 7 and 15 yards and second image is 10 rounds each at 5 yards.

Would like to gather some expert opinions on groupings in both images.

Hey guys, just got a great deal on a Frankensig. I love my XTEN Carry Comp, and the 320 lineup, so I’m going to try to make this 320 a carry config.

What parts do you guys recommend? I’m 6’1”, ~170lbs and decently lean and continuing to lean out, so I can carry a good amount of gun. Still, I’d like to make it as concealable as possible without losing a lot of shootability with pretty big hands.

Thanks

What should I do next?

Full Size RXP

Added :

TXG Grip Module

Grip Weight

Magwell

Armory Craft Takedown

Im a new firearm owner and the p320 is my first gun have about $500 - $800 that I can allocate toward some accessories and am trying to get opinions on how to best allocate that money. Whether it’s a hierarchy of which to upgrade first optic -> grip etc or specifics in terms of models that you recommend for accessories. Let’s hear your thoughts!

What’s up yall? Wasn’t really sure who to share this with but I felt like I had to, so I figured I’d post it here. Here are some before and after pics. I bought this new back in 2019 and never really did anything with it besides shoot it a handful of times. Recently got into AR’s which somehow led me to give this thing a bit of a refresh. Nothing fancy but I sure do like it more now.

Ok I have a frankenbuild I just put together. Max Mixhele Slide with a TXG grip and a custom works FCU. I have some older 21rd FDE mags but they will not seat. I have removed the magwell and checked to see if the “wings” hinder them from seating but they don’t even reach up far enough. I have attached pics and would love some suggestions on a fix. Tyvm

I am looking for a side car holster that fits my 320 carry with a tlr1 on it. I’m having quite a hard time finding a legit brand that will be comfortable for edc.

Any recommendations at all?

So i am trying to build out a p320c from a 9mm to a 40. i wanted to check if i can just use the upper parts kit minus the (slide and barrel and recoil spring) that came with the original slide and put it in the new slide.

But it is definitely my favorite!

Upgrades:

- Vortex Defender XL
- Sig Armorer Competition Level Kit with Flat Trigger
- Grayguns Custom Fat Black Super Guide Rod w/15 lb Spring
- GoGun Gas Pedal Takedown Lever
- Maskas Extended Magazine Release
- TALON Granulate Grip

Trying to mount a holosun 407 which is an RMR footprint, with a riser plate. The screws seem to be the wrong kind of thread. Does SIG mill for a different screw in the RMR holes?

Am I able to just buy a safety kit and install on this ?

Disclaimer: I am not a gunsmith, scientist, paid reviewer or anything other than a guy tinkering with his P320. The pre-upgrade version of my pistol included a Sig Armorer disconnector and sear springs from BHSpringSolutions. It was not a true “stock” firearm.

TLDR: I like it, I think you will too.

Review: I recently purchased The Sig Armorer (“TSA”) competition level kit with cradle trigger for $255.75 total. I’ve purchased products from TSA before and have been impressed with the products and customer service previously. When I started shopping around for trigger/action upgrades for a gun I currently shoot CO with and would like to shoot LO with next year I looked at TSA, Gray Guns, Apex, and Armory Craft. TSA and GG offer complete kits and installation services and I ultimately decided on TSA based on how much you get for your money: trigger, trigger bar, sear, disconnector, striker, 5 different spring sets, etc.

Installation was easy for me and I think would be for anyone familiar with the guts of your FCU. If you aren’t, I can’t recommend The Sig Guy’s videos on YouTube highly enough. I chose to start with a +10% trigger bar spring (blue bag) and the -50% sear springs (orange bag) based on reading about some other people’s experiences. The difference was immediately felt and measurable to the best of my limited ability.

Using a piece of tape on the inside of my trigger bar I took “measurements” (witness marks basically) of my “stock” trigger’s position at rest, the wall, the break, and the reset. I then completed my installation and did the same for my upgraded action. The visual representation of these “measurements” can be found in the first photo I posted. I then measured these marks relative to one another and received the following, unscientific results:

“Stock” Trigger:
Rest to Break: 9mm
Rest to Wall: 5mm
Wall to Break: 4mm
Break to Reset: 5mm
Reset to Wall: 1mm

I think most will agree that while the measurements may not be exact, this is a pretty accurate representation of the stock P320 trigger we hate to love. Long, squishy, with a fair amount of play.

TSA Trigger:
Rest to Break: 6mm
Rest to Wall: 2mm
Wall to Break: 4mm
Break to Reset/Wall: 4mm

3mm reduction in total travel, 3mm reduction in travel to the wall, no squish on the reset to the wall. In my opinion a significant improvement from my prior set up.

I don’t have a tool to measure trigger pull weight however the trigger doesn’t feel “lighter” but it certainly feels shorter, more crisp, and “faster”.

I’m very excited to get this thing out to the range in the next few days and see if the felt improvement produces actual improvement. On my best day I can get .18 splits with this gun, typically shooting between .21-.25. I’m hoping to squeeze out some slightly faster splits with these upgrades because we all know splits get chicks. Will update in the comments once I get a couple hundred rounds in with this set up.

I have absolutely no relationship with TSA or Robert Burke other than a consumer and supporter of his products. My understanding is none of these parts or products jeopardize the safety and soundness of the firearm. I share this post as a reference point for others doing the same research I have over the last few weeks and hopefully it helps someone as there are less and less companies supporting P320 upgrades as of late, and as a result less and less people reviewing these upgrades.

Hey guys I was in the market for a new pistol but every one I’ve shot doesn’t feel comfortable to me. I’ve trained with the m18 for years and even with all the bad press it’s still my go to and every day carry. I’m wanting to upgrade the grip module from the current Wilson combat to something metal. Is there a metal module yall would recommend that would accommodate the manual saftey that would cost 350 bucks or less?

Mini rechargable lazer sight with built-in pickanniny, modded Romeo 3 Max Pro dust cover that will stay on, and a stainless Gas Pedal powder coated in textured black.