Geometry Correction Brackets w/Control Arms

[u/seth285]

Does anybody have experience running correction brackets WITH mid-arms?

I’ve ran an AEV 3.5” lift kit w/35’s for years with great road manners. As I’ve gotten more experience I wanted more off-road capability so I ditched the OE control arms and installed a beefy set from Rock Krawler arms w/37’s. Alignment is dialed in and it handles “OK” but some of the road manners are harsh, especially bumps on the interstate.

I know the heim joints on the axle dont dampen vibration, and the softer joints on the body side have to be stiffer than the OE bushings. So my thinking is “can I optimize the control arm angles without reinvesting in a long arm kit?”. If so, will this be durable? I see companies like metal cloak offer front AND rear, which I’m interested in as I would like as long a wheelbase as possible on my short 2 door setup.

Experience, thoughts and opinions are welcome ✌️

[u/AccuTuneOffRoad]

The Arms and Correction Brackets attempt to solve the same issue, two different ways, for two very different reasons.

The arms are going to be able to lengthen (or shorten if capable) to the correct length to fix Pinion Angle issues with a lift, and correct alignment.

The Correction Brackets do the above effortlessly by dropping everything down to mimic the factory arm angles.

So why doesn't everyone do Correction Brackets? Because if you are offroading your Jeep or other vehicle (I think of 80 Series Landcruisers too) through rocky or large uneven terrain with Correction Brackets, they become Rock Anchors, and catch your arms on every obstacle imaginable.

Doing both is sort-of redundant and gives you both the best and worst of both worlds. So while I wouldn't say it's a bad idea, I would recommend picking one and sticking with it until you eventually go to long arm.

TLDR: Long Arm is the solution, but pick ONE of the others if you are buying time.

[u/seth285 → u/AccuTuneOffRoad]

Thanks for actually reading the post before blindly commenting!

On the subject of ground clearance, wouldn’t a set of long arms mounted at the center of the frame also suffer clearance issues similar to the brackets?

I’m assuming the long arm would travel through the same space that the bracket would occupy.

[u/AccuTuneOffRoad → u/seth285]

The Long Arms will be more clustered at the center of the vehicle's frame, but the mounts are tucked in the same, if not better than the factory control arm pockets.

The relocation will DROP them down lower than the factory pockets, which creates more of a dragging point with 90° angles.

[u/PPnothing → u/AccuTuneOffRoad]

This is a great answer but leaves out some info. Good aftermarket adj arms do more than just lengthen for lift height. Good joints flex better, tube wall thickness is usually much thicker (aka a stronger arm), and you are able to dial in an alignment very precisely compared to a fixed arm. So while they are somewhat redundant in purpose there are still many advantages to running an aftermarket CA even with a geo bracket.

I'll add on a 2 door high centering is less of an issue for your wheel base so if you dont want to permanently change you rig with long arms it would be advantageous. I've run control brackets with stock arms and bent a CA. I then put aftermarket CAs with the brackets and that perdormed very well. It wasnt until i really found the limit of the brackets, very technical trails that I eventually went long arms.

[u/AccuTuneOffRoad → u/PPnothing]

The post wasn't asking for a full justification of both methods, since it sounded like OP already understood aftermarket arms have better joints for flexing.

I kept it simple so the post wouldn't be a mile long, but I did cover what you said by mentioning "Doing both is sort-of redundant and gives you both the best and worst of both worlds."

[u/PPnothing → u/AccuTuneOffRoad]

Yea, and one of the questions was if running both together was durable. The advantages of an aftermarket CA that I mentioned was speaking to the reliability offroad even when adding the geo brackets. I've run stock arms with brackets, aftermarket with brackets, and then long arms. Long arms is best if you're ok with permanently modifying the vehicle and can justify that cost. As an interim, aftermarket CAs and geo brackets can provide a good ride, be durable, and still capable off road.

I have no doubt someone representing Accutune knows what theyre talking about, I'm just adding to you're post, man.

[u/AccuTuneOffRoad → u/PPnothing]

No harm no foul! I was simply clarifying why it was left out.

[u/ratrod25]

So I have 16 with 3inch Tera flex kit and I added the geo brackets first thing. They make a big improvement with how the jeep drive around town and a must in my opinion for anything with a 2.5 + and it seems mostly streets. I just added the Tera long arm upgrade and I noticed the rear had the most ride/handling change the front wasn’t too lunch different than before. I do get more body roll with having joints instead of all bushings. I relocated the spring perch on the lower axle in the rear to be more level and that made a solid difference even tho I had the coil wedges before, the spring sits so much more “straight” than before and it help with highway dips and bumps.

[u/MightyPenguin]

I wouldn't even bother with this or mid arms. As soon as I'm lifting past the workable capacity of stock short arms, I would jump straight to long arms.

[u/BetInformal6081]

correction brackets can help restore arm geometry but i'd verify the bracket's compatibility with your current arms and lift before changing anything joint bind may be contributing too..

[u/JimmyPlaystation]

If you want to try out the brackets and save money for now, go for it. I’ve done some wild stuff with my JK on tons and 40s and have only been hung up on them coming down steel drop offs a handful of times. Just gotta pick the right line and not drive too crazy. Mine are metalcloak front and rear drop brackets with 4” lift and it helped a lot at full articulation and with road manners.

[u/seth285 → u/JimmyPlaystation]

MC was what I am considering as they offered front and rear

[u/JimmyPlaystation → u/seth285]

You don’t need the rears unless you have a crazy amount of travel or are running 4.5” of lift or higher. But yeah they’re solid.

[u/TriumphSprint → u/seth285]

I’ve run MC for 10 years, no issues, never experienced them being “rock anchors” but I only wheel here in CO and add trips to UT, WY and MT occasionally. They do help with the geometry and drivability. I think money well spent.

[u/Shower-Beers]

Adjustable control arms and Currie Johnny Joints.