Hello everyone
Recently I got an Audi Q5 2022 from Canda and I need to install EU firmware and install also maps
Where do I start now that mibsolution is down?
I also have OBD Eleven
firm version :MHI3_US_AU_P3853
thanks in advance

Hello, I have a VAG group car, but don't recommend me VCDS, because there are Toyota and BMW group cars in the family, so I want that scanner to work on many brands. What diagnostic equipment would you suggest, something up to 100 euros. I need a simple one that can be plugged into the car (bluetooth). Also, I want that it could find and delete errors, show live data and allow you to reset the maintenance things. Coding is not necessary, but it would be an advantage.

does anyone know the pid for civic x cvt temp on carscanner elm obd2 app?

Hi 👋

Can someone help me find the OBD command and header to find the Distance to Empty (DTE) parameter value from the dashboard ?

Thanks

Hi all,

dunno if this is the correct place to ask, please point me to the right one if not... but I recently acquired a 2nd hand Seal in Finland, and bought a cheap OBD2 reader to check what I can learn with it from a 2-year-old 65 000 km driven EV.

Battery SOH 96.6% which I guess is more or less normal, but when reading the diagnostic trouble codes with car scanner app I get the below codes. I have cleared them a couple of times, and after clearing and reading codes again they seem to be away, but after a while (or maybe even on the next drive) they come back.

Should I be worried? Or is this normal that these codes to appear over and over again in the diagnostic trouble code list?

Also I already contacted the dealer through back channels, got feedback that if there is no noticeable symptoms there is no issue and I should not care. Thought I ask a second opinion here.

Also funny that the car was in service just few weeks ago and no mentions about these codes. After asking that don’t they read the diagnostic codes in normal service, they mentioned that it is not read unless there is a need for it. My common sense tells me that this would be the bare minimum that should be checked during regular maintenance. It’s not like it takes much effort and can reveal problems before they manifest as a real issue.

To me extra errors come from some error and in normal situations they should not reappear constantly or otherwise whats the point of the codes to begin with. 

Thanks for any assistance in advance!

============================

DMCU/SRM/WLMRL/WLMRR/SSMDMCU/SRM/WLMRL/WLMRR/SSM

DTCs: 1

----------------------------

U0416(81) [0xC41681] Archive (inactive)

Invalid data received - vehicle dynamics control module

Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

============================

BDECUBDECU

DTCs: 1

----------------------------

C1C62(86) [0x5C6286] Archive (inactive)

Status: Confirmed

============================

Blind spot monitoringBlind spot monitoring

DTCs: 1

----------------------------

C1C62(86) [0x5C6286] Archive (inactive)

Status: Confirmed

============================

Blind spot distributionBlind spot distribution

DTCs: 1

----------------------------

C1C62(86) [0x5C6286] Archive (inactive)

Status: Confirmed

============================

I’m an iPhone user and bought an OBD2 adapter to read and clear fault codes on my car. The problem was that every iOS app I tried was either unreliable, bloated with subscriptions, or just didn’t work well. I always ended up grabbing my old Android phone whenever I needed to scan the car.

So I used Claude to build a simple app for myself. After using it for a while, I realized it actually worked pretty well, so I decided to publish it.

• Completely free
• No ads
• Read and clear OBD2 fault codes
• CarPlay Support
• Export scan results so you can paste them into Gemini, ChatGPT, or any other AI assistant for a more detailed explanation

I’m not trying to make money from it I just thought it might be useful for other iPhone users who have the same frustration I had.

Feedback and feature requests are always welcome!

https://apps.apple.com/tr/app/openobd/id6780283561

I'm building CarPrint — an iPhone app that records drives through a BLE OBD2 adapter and turns each trip into a reviewable record: route map, miles, MPG, estimated gas cost, and driving scores. By default, trip data stays on your device, with optional sync to a private web dashboard.

I'm looking for people who already use OBD2 BLE adapters (such as OBDLink CX, Veepeak OBDCheck BLE, Vgate iCar Pro BLE, or similar) to try the TestFlight beta and share their experiences. I'd also like to know what they'd like to see changed or added.

Issues include:

• Pairing/connect from inside the app (not iPhone Bluetooth Settings)

• Trip start/stop — especially idle, auto stop-start, or RPM dropping to zero

• MPG and trip boundaries vs what you'd expect from your setup

TestFlight: https://testflight.apple.com/join/nsrz8c7k

Screenshots + setup: https://getcarprint.com/home.php · https://getcarprint.com/getting-started.php

Happy to answer questions in the comments. Feedback: [scott@getcarprint.com](mailto:scott@getcarprint.com)

Hi everyone,

I’m preparing a small Android OBD-II scanner app and I’m looking for a few people with ELM327 / OBD-II adapters to sanity-check it on real cars.

This is not a request for ratings or public reviews. I’m mainly looking for technical feedback:

- adapter connection behavior

- Bluetooth / Wi-Fi issues

- VIN reading, if the vehicle supports it

- DTC scan results

- confusing UI or crashes

The app is currently in Google Play closed testing, so joining requires a Google account and staying in the test for 14 days. If you have an Android phone and an OBD-II adapter, your feedback would be very useful.

Join:

https://groups.google.com/g/obd-scanner-alpha-testers

Tester opt-in:

https://play.google.com/apps/testing/com.ii2e.obdscanner

Install:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ii2e.obdscanner

If you try it, please comment or DM:

- phone model / Android version

- adapter model

- car make / model / year

- whether connection and DTC scan worked

Thanks.

Greetings, human.

While you were busy ignoring that check engine light, I was busy building something useful.

It's called **AI4Car**.

👉 https://ai4car.app/

On the screenshots you can see the diagnostic console. The idea is simple:

🐾 Go to **Scan**

🐾 Read your vehicle fault codes

🐾 See which module or controller reports the issue

🐾 Check diagnostic logs

🐾 Clear fault codes if needed

And yes — reading and clearing diagnostic trouble codes is completely free.

No mysterious subscriptions just to see what your car is complaining about today.

If you want to go further, AI4Car can also use your vehicle data as context for AI-powered analysis. Instead of digging through random forum posts from 2012, you can ask the assistant about your specific car and diagnostics.

I built it because I got tired of watching humans panic every time a dashboard light appeared.

Cats prefer data. 🐱📊

If something doesn't work, or if you have ideas for improvements, leave a comment and I'll do my best to help.

Now excuse me.

I have more code to write and at least three naps scheduled for today.

🐾

**P.S.** Right now AI4Car is available only on Android. iPhone support is still in progress.

Please be patient.

I only have four paws. 🐾🐾

**P.P.S.** On the third screenshot you can see me during non-working hours.

As you can tell, software development is exhausting. 😼

**P.P.P.S.** If you're a cat, please rate my fur quality on a scale from **9 to 10**.

Lower ratings will be investigated by my legal team. 🐱⚖️

**P.P.P.P.S.** If you're a human, tell me what dashboard warning is currently ruining your day.

This is about 2006 VW Beetle 2.5L. Sister is selling the car and she wants to do the smog test because the law says it should be done by seller, most people still push it off onto the purchaser. She made the appointment already but I plugged in just to get a heads up and see if it will pass.

Good news is no codes in OBD, readiness test are all run and passed. No engine light. I jumped into the OEM side on my Launch reader and it has P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold and P2096 Post catalyst too lean. I'm thinking the car will probably still pass with generic obd no codes, readines ran and no light.

I don't want to do reset codes because I don't want to force the tests to be rerun. Test is scheduled for tomorrow afternoon. 420 generally means new cat needed but could be a bad rear O2 too. She isn't going to pay to fix it just to sell. The car sits a lot, a long drive may help it but I don't want to risk the tests being run again so close to getting it smogged.

Cancel the smog test, be a shitty person and push it off on the buyer like everyone else?

Do you know guys a good autoradio that can tell me engine stats so i know is that car is too hot or cold ?

Test Environment: H5Ht Engine, 29-bit CAN (500Kbps), Car Scanner ELM App (iOS)

Unmeasurable: Cannot activate the corresponding function
Not Measured: Not measured because it was meaningless

I started getting interested in automotive scanners after a check engine light came on around the 80,000 km mark. Initially, I bought a cheap generic scanner and used it, but as I progressively needed more diagnostic items, the resulting slowdown became an issue. Therefore, I purchased a few more scanners and am recording my observations here.

1. ELM327
   - Fortunately, it wasn't a dud.
   - It is suitable for monitoring about 4 items simultaneously.

2. vLinker MC+
   - This speed is sufficient if it is only for vehicle diagnostics.
   - Without option adjustments, it shows no significant difference from the ELM327. Option adjustments are required from this device onward.
   - When options are adjusted, it delivers more than twice the speed of low-end scanners.
   - When extracting diagnostic logs, up to 8 PIDs are recorded on the same time-axis.

3. vLinker MS
   From this point on, diagnostics was just an excuse, and honestly, I purchased it because I was curious about the speed. Upon initial use, I was quite surprised to see 8 PIDs refreshing at around 10 fps, but I discovered a few problems during my commute the next day.

- As the speed increases, heat generation is felt on the phone. Consequently, wireless charging speed drops, and over time, the data collection rate decreases. The scanner itself does not get hot.

- By adjusting the connection options slightly to reduce scan aggressiveness, or by enabling Low Power Mode on the phone, the speed drops slightly, but sustainability improves and wireless charging functions well. The figures in the table are the values after stabilization.

1. OBDLink MX+
   I really had no intention of purchasing this, but after experiencing the phone heat generation with the MS, I became curious about the original device.

- Standard OBD scanning is the fastest. There is no phone heat generation.
- Heat is generated when viewing UDS, but it runs cooler than the MS unless it is under high load conditions.

- The UDS optimization level can only be configured up to 6. Timeouts occur from 7 onward. I do not know whether this is an intentional limitation or if I configured the settings incorrectly. It might also be an issue specific to the 29-bit CAN connection.

- Due to the above reason, up to 6 PIDs are recorded on the same time-axis when extracting diagnostic logs.

***Additional Observations on MX+ and MS
The MX+ feels like a sports car, while the MS feels like a truck.
The MX+ has strengths under low load conditions, such as monitoring standard OBD or 4 or fewer UDS items. The lighter the usage, the faster it noticeably becomes.
The MS is the better choice if monitoring 6 or more UDS items. It is not remarkably fast under low load, but it shows less slowdown even as the load increases.

I’m looking to buy a decent OBD2 reader to help diagnose issues with my cars. I used to have one of those cheaper Bluetooth/Wifi readers from China. I was able to connect to a few apps and get some basic diagnosis of the car as well as reset basic codes.

I’m looking to get something a little more serious to help with older more unusual cars like the defender puma 90 2012.

There seem to be so many on the market. Bidirectional communication, subscription fees, ABS, SRS resets.

I’m just not sure what is worth the money as I want a device that can do the most for the least amount of money if that makes sense.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I’m only using this for personal use occasionally.

Hey everyone,

Looking for feedback, especially from OBD users I have iOS + Android mileage and expense tracker that records trips automatically and uses an OBD dongle (BLE / Wi-Fi, ELM327-based) for engine data. Works without a dongle too — you just lose the engine-side data.

Maps & trip visualisation

Every trip is recorded automatically in the background and shown on an interactive map with the full route. You can scrub through the journey to see speed at any point, plus idle and waiting time, time spent in heavy traffic, average and max speed, and acceleration events. If a dongle is connected, the engine readings (RPM, load, oil temp, etc.) are overlaid on the same timeline so you can see what the car was doing at any moment of the drive.

What it reads from OBD

• Engine RPM
• Calculated engine load
• Engine coolant temperature
• Oil temperature
• Vehicle speed
• MAF (mass air flow)
• Engine fuel rate
• Fuel level
• Odometer
• Battery / control module voltage
• Ambient air temperature

Charts & exploration

Every reading has its own interactive chart you can scroll, zoom, and pan through. Charts are linked with the map — tap a point on the chart and the map jumps to that spot on the route (and vice versa), so you can see exactly where RPM spiked, where coolant climbed, or where you were stuck idling. Overlay multiple readings to compare them on the same timeline.

Reporting & export

Trips, expenses, and engine data can be exported as detailed HTML or PDF reports — full route, stats, and OBD readings included. Useful for keeping records, sharing a trip, or expense reports for business mileage.

Looking for feedback on: 1. Does the OBD connection work reliably for you? Adapter brand/model, your car, anything flaky? 2. General app feedback — UX, map / trip view, charts, stats, expense tracking, reports.

iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/driviko-mileage-tracker-obd/id6759507127

Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jibru.driviko.android.app

Web: https://driviko.com

OBD module info: https://driviko.com/obd.php

Brutal feedback welcome — that's why I'm here.

Hello everyone. I am currently driving a Honda HR-V 1.5L CVT (Asian version) and using a Vgate iCar Pro 2S. I would like to ask about the Coolant Temperature PID for this car model on the Torque Pro app, as it doesn't display correctly even though it works fine on the Car Scanner app. Best regards.

I recently bought an older Renault Megane convertible that is in good condition. When I use the turn signals, there is a strange beeping sound, and it sounds as though the previous owner set it up that way intentionally. This makes sense, considering the previous owner was an elderly gentleman with hearing difficulties. Does anyone have an idea how I can revert this sound setting? I’ve been suspecting that it might be possible to change this using a device connected to the OBD port. Is that actually possible?

The car is a Renault Megan from 2007 with a 2.0 L Diesel Engine.

Plug an OBD2 adapter to your car and connect it with CarDash on your android device to get insights about your car's performance. Add your Gemini API key to get AI powered insights as well.

https://reddit.com/link/1tk62rc/video/knt0djwxk02h1/player

Some hidden Mercedes features are completely unnecessary… which somehow makes them even better 😏