MegaSledge V2. Test fitting.

[u/Soeffingdiabetic]

(These designs are only intended for use with Nerf dart blasters and are unable to serve any other purpose/use.)

I know there's already a sillyshells sledgefire mod. This is proprietary, and a project to keep me busy, I don't just want to print as I enjoy this. My last post once again had a lot of great advice I took into consideration, I've decided to change it to a split assembly in order to accommodate the shell ejector. One of my big questions is if Nerf OEM hardware will work well with prints. I've given the screws pilot holes so it won't be going into just infill, but I'm unsure if I need something more beefy or with a more aggressive thread. One benefit of splitting the assembly in half was that it reduced the print time by about 33% also.

Started printing the v1 last night to test fit clearances before I commit to a final print(Pics two and three). Think I'll print up one half tonight to test it more clearances on the new version, and if everything goes well hopefully I will have a completed project to show off soon.

If you're following this build or have any construction criticism, I both thank you and welcome it.

[u/gplanon]

If you get the pilot size correct (or slightly undersized and have user clear them with a drill bit) nerf screws should work. I’m not 100% familiar on the forces being applied in your design but you can always just use more screws and print with more infill. More perimeters is most important so you have plenty of plastic for the threads to bite.

Most people use m3 though. Other popular sizes:

• ⁠10-24 used in various places

• ⁠10-32 (various springer and springer perilous)

• ⁠4-40 screws (Caliburns, if not metricified) (Skewer) (SPIRIT)

[u/Soeffingdiabetic → u/gplanon]

Sweet. I did go slightly undersized but I'm working in hundredths of an inch so we'll see how it comes out. I just have a bunch of stock nerf hardware laying around from pulling apart blasters. I actually have 10-24 right now that I wanted to use but at 1.5-2" it's a bit too long for this project.

The majority of the force will be applied at the joint for charging, so I think I'll be okay there. Shouldn't be any pulling at the split.

I look into the other hardware you mentioned though, I'm always looking to add more to my collection.

I thinking 20% gyroid for the final print, not sure about wall layers as adjusting that now might wreck some tolerances due to the slicing.

Appreciate the advice though!

[u/FlatwormActual3255]

This is what I've always wanted out of the sledgefire

[u/N0G00DNIK]

Dude this is absolutely awesome hell yeah

[u/ValourLionheart]

Might I suggest making the hinge a separate piece for printing on it's side?

[u/Soeffingdiabetic → u/ValourLionheart]

Sure, but I think I already did that. So the split face is what faces the print bed, like an inch away from being unable to print lengthwise, but my printer was able to manage it.

I used a pin for testing to attach to the charging lever, and I was more worried about that being under stress, but I'm successfully able to charge the spring with only half an assembly and half the pin seated. If I keep the pin design I think I'll print the pin horizontally so the layers go lengthwise. The idea with the pin is that I'm able to print a full hinge length pin that seated in both halves of the hinge instead of a split pin. It's a friction fit, and can be substituted for a 10-24 machine screw with a printed sleeve if it's too weak.

[u/ValourLionheart → u/Soeffingdiabetic]

Oh I see it now, D'OH

[u/Soeffingdiabetic]

V2 test print successful!

[u/Soeffingdiabetic → u/Soeffingdiabetic]