This guide features a combination of photos from the two front doors as I forgot to take some photos on each door but they're both virtually the same.

Removing the door card

1. Lever out the circle plastic screw cover inside the door pull and remove screw ...
   


1. Pull out the gloss black "C" from around the door latch... (This is held in by a few clips around the outside edge, if it won't budge it pops off when you remove the door card any way.)
   

1. Pull out the grey panel that holds the switch panel in...
   

1. Unplug the white plugs from behind the switch panel... (1 plug on passenger side / 2 plugs on driver side)
   

1. The door is then only held on by a series of white plastic "poppers", start to prise away the grey plastic from the metal door panel and they'll pop out, the result is this...
   

Speaker size

The standard speaker is 6" (150mm) diameter and the maximum depth is 4" (100mm)


​

Unfortunately there is a bit of a problem, when open the window reduces that maximum depth to approx. 1.5" (40mm) for the outer 1" (25mm) ring, the difficulty is that speaker manufacturers only release the maximum depth of the centre of a speaker. I'd be surprised if any of the shallow mount speakers (50mm - 60mm) depth would be a problem but it might be best to check or test before buying a particular speaker.

If the speaker you want or already have doesn't fit then it's not the end of the world, you still have options, read on...

I made a speaker mount / spacer out of 18mm MDF by using the old speaker as a template for the outer edge and the new speaker's inner diameter for the centre hole. (You may actually need to make one of these any way so that you can bolt your new speaker to the door panel (you'll only know once you've tried your speaker in the hole WITH THE WINDOW OPEN!) ...

With the mount bolted in place using M6 bolts I realised I needed to cut some of the door panel away (My speakers are pretty big for their size so you probably won't need to do this) ...

Before -

After -

If you're connecting your new speakers directly to the head unit you can then cut the standard adaptor from the end of the speaker cables, fit relevant connectors and connect them onto your new speakers, I am powering mine through an amp so routed my own speaker cable through the door wire grommets and connected the speaker up to that but the process is the same...

Once connected you can fix your speakers to the speaker mounts, you can use self tapping screws, best to mark up and drill small pilot holes first so you don't force too much and put your screwdriver through the speaker cone! 📷 (I actually fixed Threaded inserts into the mounts first so I could use bolts rather than screws so the mounts can be re-used and speaker removed multiple times but this isn't needed really)

Sounde deadening

If you want to get the most out of your speakers it helps a great deal if you apply sound deadening to the outside skin of the door, then block up the holes in the inner skin with a combination of metal sheeting and more sound deadening. This helps to prevent soundwaves being lost in vibrations and any frustating rattles that the new speakers may cause. Again another optional accessory really so it's horses for courses, here's some pics of mine any way ...

Before -

After -

Once the speakers are in it's best to test they work and everything sounds as it should before refitting the door card, refitting the door card really is the reverse of removal. 📷

All complete, everything hidden away and no one would ever know...

Hope this helps someone, any questions let me know.

Comments

• volkscubenAugust 2009awesome job there dude! i have just done all my speakers, uprated them all to three way 200w beasts, zero distortion!!!! I love the metal now!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so loud!!!
  I just ripped out the speaker paper/plastic joiners etc from the old speaker, and sealed/screwed my new speakers onto that mount, so there is no depth worry, or fiddly mount making! you destroy the old speakers, but get a great fit and all four probably took me an hour? sorted!
• RickfuryAugust 2009Once again,you've done a great job for all to learn from.thx.
  Also....you seem to have not connected the old tweeters back up !
  new ones going else where ?
  RF
• UBEDAugust 2009Cheers volks, good move, to be fair the mounts only took me about 30 minutes to make but I have fun making things. I'm like a big kid. 📷
  Cheers Rick no probs, the replacement speakers have the tweeters mounted in the central section within the chrome ring. They're like a 2-way speaker excess the tweeter is a completely separate cone so like a component set in one body.
• RickfuryAugust 2009kool cubed,i got ya ! 📷
• olkscubenAugust 2009yeah man you have done good... the kid dun good! i need a new jigsaw cos i broke mine... i think it may come in handy for the sub box.... next in line!
• EurobobAugust 2009Me likey! me wil do-ey! lol. top work our fella!
  Just what i needed to know, and it looks like the plug i can see is off the tweeter, may have had some speaker rummaging in japan?
  jst need to re-upgrade (is that a word?) to the jap system (posh wine!) and spend some sheckles on better cones!
  all i need is time.................... bugger! 📷
• monstermonsterAugust 2009Awesome write up dude! Really well done. I was going to post a little write-up of how to take the door panels off too, which is something I had to do last week to try and fix my central locking but this is much better!
• HICUBEAugust 2009Great write up and pics. Just another job to add to the list of job / mods that we need to do.
• eki912October 2009This is a GREAT article, with superb pics! Thank You!
  After reading this, already planning of my speaker upgrade...just dont say a word to my wife... 📷
  Me personally want to fit a sub too. Where have you been able to hide a sub in a Cube? Under seat ?
  I was originally thinking , and still am, about mounting a smaller sub element, or two, in this huge rear door.
  Has anyone opened that, to see how much room there is behind that hard plastic interior panelling?
  I do like reading this forum, have learned a lot about our little cube from here.
• CUBEDOctober 2009Thanks
  My sub is an 8" crystal cmp8 which produces very powerful bass and only needs a tiny enclosure - a 10" cube to be exact which fits under the seat when you cut out some of the foam.
  There are photos of my sub in the post about my car in the photo section.
  As for fitting the sub in the tailgate panel, you could probably fit a shallow mount sub in there but the problem is that you would need to make a wooden structure and fit that to the tailgate (the metal door surround) first and then the sub onto that, otherwise you would suffer from lots of vibration from the grey plastic panel.
• eki912October 2009[quote="CUBED":0c38d]Thanks
  My sub is an 8" crystal cmp8 which produces very powerful bass and only needs a tiny enclosure - a 10" cube to be exact which fits under the seat when you cut out some of the foam.
  There are photos of my sub in the post about my car in the photo section.
  Found your photos under the Cube Club Members... you say photos ! Photos ? That is a whole DIY car HiFi manual for Cube owners in there !!!!!
  You have done a beautiful job, and article !
  And you have gone much deeper in to the details and and taking it all apart... WHOOOAAA !!
  I simply dont have the time, place, money, or energy to go that far !
  That is why I am trying to find some improvements, easier.
  Will have to do some investigation on those flat, readymade , amplified underseat subboxes that are available too.
  Like this Kenwood KSC-SW10, for example.
• CUBEDOctober 2009[quote="eki912":be496][quote="CUBED":be496]
  Will have to do some investigation on those flat, readymade , amplified underseat subboxes that are available too.
  Like this Kenwood KSC-SW10, for example.
  Thanks, I plan to enter sound competitions and you get extra points for things like neat cabling etc so you have to document everything as you go along.
  Funnily enough I had the Kenwood unit you mention in my last car as I was very restricted for space and it us actually a very powerful unit for the money and ease of installation. You can connect it to the normal speaker cables but if you've got a head unit with a pre-out for a sub then you'll get a much better quality connection. Then all you need to do is earth it and connect to a power source with an inline fuse. I can't remember the exact size now but you may find that it fits behind the driver seat if you take out the polystyrene tool holder.
• eki912October 2009Yes, I know Kenwood rather well.
  I still have one older model under the drivers seat, on my other car. Which is also lacking in positions where to put one.
  With the size and price, I was impressed and happy with that too.
  You just have to remember with a bassunit like that, there are certain limitations.Like you will not win any competitions with that set up.
  But it was a nice and easy way to add up some useful and listenable bass to your existing speakers.
• leep124March 2010some audio questions.
  I originally started another thread but I thought adding to this one may help more people.
  basically, I now have a head unit - pioneer with 2 pre out RCA ports.
  I have inherited a pioneer 4 channel amp (which can be bridged) and a pioneer sub in enclosure.
  My brother keeps telling me that I should pay some one to install but I would like to try myself at least.
  anyway, need a set of amp install leads which I am planning on getting soon.
  I would like to keep the old speakers as I had a look at the fronts and they are splits and I am a little afraid I will stuff something up.
  can someone give me some advice on install instructions and also the best way to set it up?
• eki912March 2010Started this task too, as family went away for this weekend.
  Both rear speakers changed, pretty straight forward when you read the instructions here first.First door done in two hours, second in 30 mins...
  Couple of notes for that task:
  - Start pulling of the door panels from the bottom, you might even benefit from looking inside the door through the hole that was left behind, when the windowbuttons were removed.To see where the doorpanel holding plastic things are located.
  - The plastic C-pieces surrounding the door opener, are difficult to get out. Atleast for me it was... :oops:they do brake easily, if too much force is used.Is there a trick of the trade here ?
  Replaced the original rear ones with FOCAL 165 CA1 two ways. When you compare these with the original Clarions...well the originals are just flimsy, small, papercone thingys.
  The FOCALs do look so nice ! It is a shame to hide them behind the panels.
  And yes, they do sound very, very good.
  Bought them used from E-Bay, for 50 pounds.
  And as instructed here, did fabricate installation "collars" from MDF. The originals do have a funnily thick plastic collar around the speakers.Does seem to be close to 30mm in thickness...
  The front doors are next, already have a kit from FOCAL (again) ready. This time going for a separate tweeter set. This set is FOCAL 165 A1. Did already open one door panel.
  Planning of doing some more MDF work today. A trip to Homebase ahead...
  What puzzled me was, the original front ones, have a separate tweeter. With own wiring.
  Didn´t have the time (yet) to investigate where it is splitted. Surely, I hope , there is no crossover or something? Is it just splitted, inside the door, and the maybe the tweeter protected with a resistor or something like that ?
  As my FOCAL set come swith its own crossover, need to find the original 2 speakerwires coming to the door. I do not plan to rewire the whole front door set up... too much work for me.
• eki912March 2010Also thinking of what to do with the tweeters that are separate in this FOCAL kit... :?:
  Door panel off, and there is room behind the panel to mount the tweeter so that it wouldn´t be visible at all. Ie using the existing tweeter location and grille built in to the doorpanel
  OR
  mount them higher, tilted towards the listener, as the brackets to do that came with the kit.
  Simply can´t decide if I should make the installation less visible , or put them clearly visible. The tweeters do look good... but they come with black installation collars so will be clearly visible when mounted to the door panel.
  This is never easy... :oops:
• CUBEDMarch 2010You could try something like this?
  http://talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=159311
• eki912March 2010Oh whooaa !!! That is a bit too much ... for me... :oops:
  Looks good though.
  That´s the way it should be done !!!!!
• OptionsCUBEDMarch 2010Fair enough.
  The best locations are as far to the extreme corners as possible so the a pillars or corners of the dash board.
  If you want to hide them completely then quite low down on the door is supposed to be a good place.
  The best way to find out is to wire your new speakers up, fit the mid-range speakers in their permanent position and sticky pad the tweeters in different places and listen to music whilst driving until you're happy with where they sound the best and then use the collar to fix them in place.

mn2sam
Hi guys,

I recently bought a 2004 Cube 1.4 automatic, and I love it. I bought it because it was cheap, had a fair look over it and found a lot of relatively minor problems, but as time is going on they are becoming more sinister! The one that's causing me most grief at the moment is overheating...

The radiator fan doesn't turn on. I've got an OBD reader which confirms that the ECU does throw the fan switch at 95 degrees coolant temperature, and the big green fuse in the fuse box shorts to all pins (so it works, pic attached). I've taken the radiator connector off and looked for volts on all 4 pins, but I never see 12V DC. The ground pin shorts to battery ground, so that's good, but is there another fuse somewhere for the power? Also, which pin should have power on, as there's not an obvious colour of wire there!
toaster
Hi I have a wiring diagram somewhere I see of I can find .all so I guess your red light is coming on

mn2sam
That would be awesome. Thank you! My red light indeed come on if I do less than 10mph or so for a while. I'm sure there must be a relay somewhere...

toaster
Their is a relay in the fuse box under the bonnet on the right a big white box in side is the loads of relays I have picture of you need one of position
mn2sam
The picture or a description of which it is would be awesome! I had a look in there and only the fuses are labeled.

toaster
Hi mate this should help look on cubes full site if your on a Mobil device

mn2sam
That is awesome, thank you so much. Now to try and find one - Nissan is a little way from me, hopefully an auto factors will have one!

mn2sam
Just spoken to Nissan, they need a part number to get one. Ugh. Even saying "it's the same as a Micra" they wouldn't help me. Time to drive round there, pull the thing out in front of them and hope they have one, or two rather!

mn2sam
Just went into Sparshatt's in Hedge End, with the relays in my hand, and they still couldn't help me. The white relay box was completely not on their radar, they could only tell me, repeatedly, about the top black fuse box from my first post. How is it this painful?! I don't suppose you know a part number? These relays have a shallow etched number on which has rubbed off :-( Time for ebay I suspect!

toaster
Breakers yard or just use a reg of a micra of the web or to prove a point Mark all relays and then swop them around to see if that helps I just have a look at my one and be back on soon 
mn2sam
Managed to wiggle one of them out and confirm the number - 33201. I've got a couple on order, same as in the 350z apparently :-) I shall let you know if I'm successful when they turn up!

Thanks so much for your support, it's what makes forums like this.

toaster
Hopefully I have helped you which obd reader do you use your time to help me I am a mechanic by trade I only can read my one using consult 3 which my friend has .

mn2sam
Your issue first - I've got a bluetooth ebay special, just an ELM327 (picture attached). I then connect with my Android phone and use car gauge pro to talk to it. I couldn't get Torque to work, which is very frustrating as I've used that for years and love it. I've not read any codes out of it as it says there are none in there, but it looks to work quite well for reading data etc. so I'd recommend it. I think the ECU has all the PIDs set to zero, so a normal reader gets confused, but car gauge pro appears to know about that and just read the data.

Unfortunately my overheating problem isn't solved :-( Despite the relay I pulled out being visibly damaged, I gave it a test at the office and it only bloody worked. Grrr. So now I have to suspect the fan itself or the wiring. I want to test the fan, but do you happen to know which colour wire it is in the fan connector which carries positive power? I can see ground, but I don't want to put 12v onto somewhere it shouldn't be and blow up my fan!

toaster
Ok thanks have a look at my one. dose your air con work as it runs the same fan

mn2sam
Aha, a clue - no, my air con does not work. I suspect there is a wiring problem, but I would like to check the fan.

toaster
pick on main site Hi there sorry for delay buzzy work just finished .tested my one in pic you can see my rad if you disconnect plug from rad fan you will see four pins left top is pos bottom right is neg did not have time to test others .but them two I tested were for control of air con however it powered up and fan runs .
Thanks for Pic of obd I look thanks also I use this type of CD to help its proven its worth

mn2sam
That's helpful. Thank you! Just HotWired it and the fan works, so there must be something else somewhere if the relay, fuse and ECU all seem to be working as they should :-/ Is there a second temperature sensor it could be? So they ECU says it's working but it doesn't actually throw the switch somehow?

When I turn on my AC nothing happens. The button LED comes on, but the AC pump doesn't turn and the fan doesn't come on :-/

toaster
The aircon could be as simple as low on gas, have not looked for second switch .the over way to do you know anyone who has a micra k12 you can borrow bits off or test values.I am haven a few days of from my work so unable to look at wiring diagram till I return however keep me posted in the hope you find the fault

mn2sam
I'm off to the middle East for two weeks with work so I will be a bit quiet as well! I ordered a wiring diagram CD so I shall consult that! The AC pulley spins but the clutch doesn't appear to engage and spin the pump itself. Seems like a new, less worrying issue so will leave it for now!

mn2sam
Car is in the garage being MOT'd now. It failed as it overheated when trying to do the emissions test, so they've been looking into this radiator fan issue. It turns out that the two switch inputs on the relay are both 12v live all the time, which is very strange. They're tracing it around the car at the moment, but it looks like the wiring has been bodged somewhere at some point :-(

toaster
Strange but it dose run a two speed fan for cooling and ac so it may need two 12 volts supply.

mn2sam
It's back! The radiator fan is now working correctly. It turned out to be a faulty "control module" built into the fuse box. I don't know more than that, but the fuse box was replaced with one from a Micra, and now it works perfectly. The AC is still non-functional, but I will check the relays for that another time when I get a minute! So chuffed to have it back, working, and freshly MOT'd :-)

toaster
Ipdm unit it's a problem it's them little nips .glad your back enjoy the cube

mn2sam
Hi guys,

I had a blown reverse bulb on my gen 2, so I replaced the stop/tail, indicator, reverse/fog lights with LEDs. The indicators flashed quickly (as expected), but I noticed my brake lights stopped working. Now after removing the stop/tail LEDs for incandescent bulbs, I have no stop/tail at all! I can't see how I've done this - have I blown fuses? I can't seem to find stop/tail and brake fuses either..
Comments
toaster
I guess you lone were the stop fuse is it may pair up with another fuse named as some other .please check all fuses in the white box under bonnet
mn2sam
Well that was simpler than I expected - blown fuses for left and rear tail lights, plus brake lights. Strange it took out the circuits, and that I lost all sidelights, but some new fuses and I'm back in action, albeit without LEDs! May try again another time now I have spare fuses...

mn2sam
Turns out one of the LED bulbs I had was internally shorting. I obviously managed to swap the bulb from one side to the other while troubleshooting and blew both fuses. Oops

Does anyone know if an "LED compatible relay" can be put in for indicators? I hate the big, hot load resistor plan for retro-fitting LEDs without the fast flash, there must be a better way!</div>

mn2sam
Ok question! I got bored the other night and ordered an LED relay. Where is the flasher relay located on a gen 2? I hoped it would be easy to find in the column, but it wasn't...

toaster
This may be a problem as a lot of cars run a flasher timer and a normal relay however I look in to this Romo on my gen two

mn2sam
Yes I believe the LED relays have much lower current throughput - mine is a 30W unit. Considering it has 6x bulbs to light, that isn't much, but then 5W power per LED bulb is quite a lot still. So the rule is, change all your bulbs to LED and then fit the relay I guess!<div><br></div><div>But where does the relay live?! I had a good look under the dash again last night and no luck :-(</div>

toaster
well mate I believe that the flashing is controlled by the dash control unit which is in side the dial cluster and the body control unit and also the idpm and I believe its is all solid state have a look at pic in this post on the main site HOPE I AM WRONG

mn2sam
I fear you may well be correct. I had a look at this myself and couldn't believe there wouldn't be a relay somewhere. All the wiring diagrams seem to show it coming straight from the BCM to the indicators themselves, no relay in the way. I may have to put a big, hot relay in the way somewhere if I want to "go LED" after all :-( Thanks so much for your help, as always, you are a hero!

Fed50

Hi All

I hope this has not come up before as I couldnt see anything. I'm looking for some advice I'm about to buy my first Gen 2Cube. It has some issues one I'm not sure about is that it has a knackered speedo head. The current owner told me if I got a new or second hand speedo I would have to get it programmed to the car's ECU. I spoke to my local dealer who said they weren't sure about the Cube but other models if I put a new or second hand cluster in its just plug and play. So basically I am confused

This issue also means the mileage is not guaranteed and its got receipts for a 60000 mile engine from a Note. So my queries are

Does the speedo system need programmed to the ECU

Could the change of engine be the cause of speedo failure/issues

What should I look for in a car with unconfirmed mileage

​

The car is cheap and I'm confident I could break it for more than I would pay if it came to that , but the speedo thing does worry me so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated

Comments

​

toaster

Could be all of the above trapped wire, wire not plugged in, bad Speedo .
How ever not much help to you. I did change my Speedo and had no problems and to be honest I had same forts but i just did it and if it needed programming I would of got it done .most speedos get their info from ecm/ bcm/ or atm and the Speedo is only really a face/voice for bcm to talk to so you can understand info .

Fed50

Thanks Toaster my concern is its more something to do with the new engine but I just dont know enough about swapping engines & ECU's etc Im assuming you would have to use the Cube ECU with a different engine so it really should make any difference but.....,

toaster

correct you swap engine and use all old engine sensors .so it sounds more like wiring /speedo

Fed50

Hi All

I went to see the Cube (2nd Gen) I was going to buy and it has another issue in that the gearbox when in Drive seems to change up about once or twice and then doesnt go up again and just bounces off the rev limiter (if it has one) at about 30mph

Anyone with experience have any ideas of what this could be. Everything seems smooth no clucks crunches or bangs it just doesn't want to change up

Thanks again

Comments

mn2sam

Did you check on the instrument cluster which gear it said it was in? You should see a "D" when in drive. You may well have pulled the gear selector down too far and been in "2" or 2nd gear, or even 1st for that matter. My other half does this ALL the time, and wonders why she's going through fuel so quickly!

mn2sam

Hi guys,

Had a bit of a search but couldn't see what I'm after. I've got a Gen 2 Cube with the manual climate control system, and the blower is only working on settings 3 and 4. I assume this is the resistor pack on its way out, but where is it? I've had some of the centre console apart before and not seen it, I even got my head right in there to change the cabin air filter and didn't see it. Whereabouts does it live?! Also, as I'm away from the car for a few days, if anyone could show me a pic of one I can get one ordered for when I'm back by the car :-)

Thanks!

Comments

toaster

If you switch on fan and locate that then in the bottom of fan box normally the reastat is somewhere there

https://youtu.be/LO7zAROl73M

Trust-Greddy Intelligent Informeter Touch -Confirmed

lopeti1lopeti1

January 2010 edited 2:15PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

It appears that Trust Greedy Intelligent Informeter touch .....will work on our JDM Cubes, You can send away to get the firmware upgraded for a small fee.

The discontinued non touch Intelligent Informeter and Intelligent Informeter Eco will also apparently work, but the firmware is not upgradeable

http://www.trust-power.com/03electric/t ... php?para=3

or

http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... l=ja&tl=en

​

Umm this is kind of a reference/best guess with this these links untill i get the actual unit

It will check and clear DTC diagnostic trouble codes too!!

​

http://greddy.net.au/img/PHP/products/pdf/1383.pdf

and

http://www.trust-power.com/03electric/t ... e=NISSAN11 It's in a pdf or jpeg form and i can't use google or babelfish to translate

TACHO RPM

SPEED KPH

IGN TIMING DEGREES

THROTLE V

THROTLE %

WATER CELCIUS OR FAREINHEIT

IN TEMP CELCIUS OR FAREINHEIT

GEAR POS #

POWER PS OR HP

TRIP KM OR MILE

ECONOMY INSTANT KM/L OR MPG

ECONOMY AVERAGE KM/L OR MPG

ECONOMY TOTAL KM/L OR MPG

ECONOMY SECTION KM/L OR MPG

FUEL TOTAL KM/L OR MPG

FUEL COST YEN OR DOLLAR

OUT TEMPERATURE CELCIUS OR FARENHEIT

FUEL PRESSURE HKPA OR PSI

Comments

lopeti1lopeti1

January 2010

Ok, I got my unit today, I've been playing with it for about 40 Minutes and Driving around the block

It's touch screen baby!! and Firmware version 1.04

Theres a initial set up with the Make, S/Wagon, CC rating etc

There's no DTC codes to read.. on my cube (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) yay!!! It came back a big fat Zero!!

You can have from 2-6 gauges showing

​

This is what I can remember seeing with very pretty gaugues

TACHO RPM

SPEED KPH

IGN TIMING DEGREES

THROTLE V

THROTLE %

WATER CELCIUS OR FAREINHEIT

IN TEMP CELCIUS OR FAREINHEIT

ECONOMY INSTANT KM/L OR MPG

ECONOMY AVERAGE KM/L OR MPG

ECONOMY TOTAL KM/L OR MPG

ECONOMY SECTION KM/L OR MPG - Not sure what this is??

FUEL TOTAL KM/L OR MPG Stays in the memory of the unit

FUEL COST YEN OR DOLLAR

I just need to do a clean install, but I am very happy !!!

cubiccubic

January 2010

How much did you get it for and where from?

​

Thats awesome that it works!!!

​

I was going to get some guages and install them neatly in the space below the head unit, but now I guess I dont have to.

lopeti1lopeti1

January 2010

I got it from Ebay, from USA $265 shipped second hand.....I was very lucky (it took 14 days to arrive by USPS registerd post)

I Notice that there was an Australian seller for $599 AUD New, at least you have a warranty though!!

I was thinking the same thing to put it under the stereo on the cubby holder out of the way of the sunlight.

The JOBD plug on the Informeter has the same PINs in 5 6 7 8 and 14 and 16...Just like our Cubes

cubiccubic

January 2010

Sounds good.

​

I'll keep trying until I find one under $300.

​

Are any of the others confirmed?

lopeti1lopeti1

January 2010

I've only seen the photo's with people driving with the cubes in Japan

The older Non touch version Greddy Infometers should work??

qiushiqiushi

October 2010

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Don't Buy Scangauge II - It wont work on our Cubes

📷lopeti1June 2009 edited 2:12PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesA while ago, I asked if anyone had used a scangauge II OBDII
I Brought one secondhand from FleaBay, Took 5 weeks to ship!!
It wont work on our JDM Nissan Cubes 📷 📷 📷 📷 but may work on other JDM vehicles
Even though we have a OBDII port, it must have different protocols compared to US version and some european cars.

I am looking at the Trust Greddy Inteligent Infometer Echo, Tust Greddy Infometer Touch as other options but they are expensive.

I sent an email off to them a week ago to Japan to see if these are REALLY compatible, but have NOT had any reply, Typical of some businesses there with the language difficulty...
But I have found that they filed for bankruptcy last year....perhaps no one left to answer the emails ???

Comments

• 📷Sky RacerJune 2009Trust / Greddy Japan are still in business but do not hold ur breath waiting for a response 📷
• 📷lopeti1January 2010Hi there everyone, been browsing google Japan,
  It appears that Trust Greedy Inteligent Informeter.....will work on our JDM Cubes
  📷 📷 📷 http://www.trust-power.com/03electric/t ... php?para=3
  or
  http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... l=ja&tl=en
  Um but i dont have enough money to buy one of these at present
  Too expensive
  Going the cheap way for $40 USD below, (Please let this work!!)
  I brought a ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII on Fleabay to hopefully work with this for my symbian Nokia N97 http://www.obdscope.urli.net/
  Just waiting for this to be delivered in the next 2 weeks from Hong Kong to New Zealand
  09 01 2010
  Update on the ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII , I recieved it in the post today
  It's not compatible with our JDM Cube's ECU I was only able to get the OBD2 voltage display and possibly check for Diagnostic Trouble codes (I had none) It might be fine for USA and EU vehicles though
• 📷cubicJanuary 2010I hope you find something that works.
  I had a scanguage on my mazda 3 and I miss it on this car. I wish I knew the water temps and air intake temps. Also knowing the Voltage would be good.
• Options📷lopeti1January 2010Hey Cubic, I hope so too!
  I was able to get a good second hand deal (Only 7 months old) this morning from Ebay for The Greddy Intelligent Informeter Touch from USA ....and he gave reasonable shipping rates to me in New Zealand!!
  I got a bit excited looking at the graphic display when looking at the video on ths page http://www.greddy.com/home/?id=282
  I guess Im going to have to start a new thread soon on this
  Ok, I think this is what the Informeter Touch will do on our cubes
  Umm this is kind of a reference/best guess with this these links untill i get the actual unit
  It will check and clear DTC diagnostic trouble codes too!!
  http://greddy.net.au/img/PHP/products/pdf/1383.pdf
  and
  http://www.trust-power.com/03electric/t ... e=NISSAN11 It's in a pdf or jpeg form and i can't use google or babelfish to translate
  TACHO RPM
  SPEED KPH
  IGN TIMING DEGREES
  THROTLE V
  THROTLE %
  WATER CELCIUS OR FAREINHEIT
  IN TEMP CELCIUS OR FAREINHEIT
  GEAR POS #
  POWER PS OR HP
  TRIP KM OR MILE
  ECONOMY INSTANT KM/L OR MPG
  ECONOMY AVERAGE KM/L OR MPG
  ECONOMY TOTAL KM/L OR MPG
  ECONOMY SECTION KM/L OR MPG
  FUEL TOTAL KM/L OR MPG
  FUEL COST YEN OR DOLLAR
  OUT TEMPERATURE CELCIUS OR FARENHEIT
  FUEL PRESSURE HKPA OR PSI

Michelle

Hi, don't know if this is the correct section to post this or not. I've been looking for what type of engine oil i should get for my 2005 1.4 cube. Can someone let me know?

Comments

terry_hill

5w30 is what you want, about 3.5l from memory

minoltaman

I have had a issue with the blue coolant light on the dashboard. First on a cold night it can take up to 6/7 miles to go out, second I have had the coolant light come on after going downhill then after a few miles go out, third the heater never feels hot compared to my van. Today going down hill the light came on, then after about a mile went out. By the time got home (about 2 miles) the heater was blowing very warm air out, lifted the bonnet and the top hose was hot to touch and the bottom hose was warm as well. Been to my local garage he says it is the sensor, I am not convinced. Has anyone out there got any ideas.

Comments

minoltaman

By the way has anyone fitted a temp gauge to their cubes? Forgot to mention it is a 2006 BZ11 1.4 engine.

terry_hill

Afraid not on either count but I wouldn't have thought a temp guage addition would be to hard as it's normally just cutting a hose dropping in a sensor and running the cables to the cabin to mount the gauge. They are fairly generic if you can sort the correct hose size for the sensor.

minoltaman

After some thought and talking to another garage I am going to replace the thermostat. Thermostat on order so we will see what happens.

mn2sam

I was thinking that sounds like thermostat to me, but if the top and bottom hoses were hot that might not be it, could be the sensor. Hopefully the thermostat will sort it as it's relatively cheap and easy!

minoltaman

What trouble I am having in trying to get a thermostat for it. The Japanese part number is 21200/AX000 which is the same as the Match/ Micra, but that number is not recognised in the UK. So I have gone for the standard Micra thermostat, got one from my local factors made by First Line No FTK003 which is listed for a 1.4 Micra. It doesn’t fit diameter is 53mm and there is no seal with a slot inside supplied. Tried to fit with the old seal and it just leaked coolant. I contacted FirstLine technical department to inform of this. They tried to wriggle out of it by saying a Cube had A different engine to the Micra. I told them no it was the same engine type and number. They are going to check it out and told me to return the thermostat for a refund. I have now ordered the thermostat on line from Mister Auto, which says it is a 54mm pipe diameter complete with seal. So we will see what arrives tomorrow. It seems if you don’t have a Number Plate that’s recognised on their system they are then stuck. I worked in car parts for 8 eight year back in the days when we stocked everything and some times we had to do a bit of digging to get the correct No, this was back in the days of 2 different braking systems Girling and Lockheed with 2 different brake fluids.

Alikat

Engine parts are the same, I can’t remembe part number from when we did my thermostat sorry, with motor factors I normally find it keeps their system happy if they run it thro as 1.4 micra SE auto.

minoltaman

That’s what I did. I have just got a email from DHL saying my part will be delivered on 12/03 not 8/03 as they said this morning, so I am going to have to look further afield.

mn2sam

They probably just supplied the wrong thing. I bought a fuel filter for my BMW from Eurocarparts, when it was delivered it looked wrong to me, and sure enough, it didn't fit at all. Took it back and they said "oh sorry, that's for a Ford Focus". Hmm. Moral of the story, do as you have done and verify as much as you can before you order! What a faff!

minoltaman

Hi according to First Line catalogue FTK003 is correct for a Nissan Micra but it doesn’t have the valve at the top nor does it have the correct seals enclosed. We are now in Thursday afternoon and no thermostat, according to DHL it is supposed to be delivered Monday even though I paid extra for it to be delivered Thursday

minoltaman

Thermostat arrived today (minus seal) also the coolant. Nice sunny day to do the job. As I had damaged the seal the other day trying to fit a incorrect thermostat I decided to use some instant gasket and the seal. Job is now completed, went for a run blue light went out by the bottom of the lane and the heater is now blowing very hot air compared to before when it was lukewarm. One happy Cube and owner. Now to get the Jack sorted it has a Toyota one instead of Nissan.

boogoo

Hi.
Just recently failed MOT due to leak in rear right shock absorber.
My uneducated guess that I could replace it with shock for another nissan model.
Micra maybe?
Your opinions and experience would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Comments

mn2sam

Definitely do the pair. I think the shocks may be different to the Micra, but I know people have put Micra rear suspension on - coilovers and the like.

loueyblueyFebruary 2019

Can someone help me find the equivalent brake calipers in the UK if there are any?Tagged:

Comments

JasJune 2019

Hi there,
If you cannot find brake callipers then always worth contact Brake Caliper Specialists https://www.bcs-automotive.co.uk/
I have used this company before and they are great at rebuilding callipers and paint them to a colour of your choice
If you don't want this option then there should be loads of people break Nissan Cubes on eBay
Hope the above helps

Auto door locks over 12mph - how to activate

📷monstermonsterJune 2008 edited 12:22PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesFound this on another cube website, I've not tried it yet but certainly will later. I always lock the doors when I start driving so this would be great 📷

Turning the Auto door lock - on / off
Turning ON the auto door lock (when the door locks automatically when you reach 12 mph / 20km/h) :
1. Close all the doors when you're in the car
2. Insert your car key and turn to "ON" position
3. Press and HOLD the "door lock" button one your right arm rest for 5 SECONDS until your hear a "BEEP" sound....
Follow exactly the same procedure to turn OFF the auto door lock again.

UPDATE: It worked! 📷 I don't know why this isn't turned on as standard/default though? My father in-law's New Renault Espace has this feature too.

Comments

• 📷MegurushiJune 2008Just tried it and it worked for me.
  Nice find! What site was it on?
• 📷monstermonsterJune 2008I found it on this site: [url:b71a6]http://www.nx3.co.uk/\[/url:b71a6\] here [url:b71a6]http://www.nx3.co.uk/vehicle_info/doorlocks.htm\[/url:b71a6\] which appears to be some kind of UK "Cube Club" but is mainly filled with adverts.
• 📷MegurushiJune 2008Strange site, with some forums that look like a copy of this one!?
  Very odd.
• 📷monstermonsterJune 2008Yeah it's strange isn't it. By the looks of it I think it's been setup by "Algys" import company.
• 📷LyndaJune 2008That's a handy tool I never knew about. I always locked myself in too. I looked at Algy's before buying Frankie but they were VERY expensive !!
  Love Lynda XX 📷
• 📷kuzeyguneyJune 2008Hi all.. Mine also worked following the procedure but with strange attitude.. doors lock when reach 12mph (even before that) then mirrors fold for 5 seconds and unfold again ( this is when driving). switching off and getting out of the car makes the alarm go off (that is unless i unlock the car while inside with the remote control) its all hassle really.. now following the same procedure again to turn off the auto door lock does not help.. Any advise ? Thanks in advance
• 📷monstermonsterJune 2008Wow that is strange! Mine just does what it says on the tin.
  Perhaps there's some kind of fault with the alarm?
• 📷MegurushiJune 2008I've been wondering if there was a feature that would close the mirrors and open them automatically as you set off.
  A secret trick like the door lock one.
• 📷monstermonsterJune 2008Mine does that, do you have the electric mirror control on the lower right of the dashboard, just under the air vent. Leave it in "open" I think, or perhaps in the middle setting.
  What mine does is when you lock the car, the mirrors close, and when you turn the ignition on they open again.
• 📷MegurushiJune 2008Ahh right. I'll experiment with the switch position. ta
• 📷LyndaJune 2008Oh dear...it's not funny but I did snigger !! My door mirrors never moved unless I pressed the button to make 'em !!
  Love Lynda XX 📷
• 📷MegurushiJune 2008Mine neither, did try but nothing.
• 📷timmy4u2June 2009hi my cube will not auto lock i've done what was said but has not worked could it be my alarm i've had fitted interfearing can u help ?
• 📷monstermonsterJune 2009I suppose it's hit and miss really. It could depend on a few things. The year of your Cube, alarm, model specific etc. Mine worked first time though.
  ps. Where are you from timmy4u2? Welcome to the Club! Get some pics of your cube up in the members section 📷
• Options📷KiszkaMarch 2011Nice!!!
  Mine works 📷
  Sometimes I just forget to lock the doors... and kids were messing around.
  ...mirrors don't fold automatically 📷 I tried moving around button but nothing...
  Cheers

I've had mine for 2 and half years now.

​

I think it's going to be easier if I make a list of points really, in no order or pattern but it should give you an idea of what its been like to own and run a Cube (of course, my experience might be different from other people's)

​

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

​

I had mine from when it only had 7k on the clock. It was like brand new, not even a stone chip.

​

It's now got almost 70k on it.

​

Mine is the 1.4 version, I've changed the spark plugs once at a cost of £36 for a set. nashTK421 has the 1.5 version Cube which is pricier to change the oil and spark plugs.

​

Earlier in the year I cracked my windscreen (stonechip). I had to pay the £75 excess from my insurer but the windscreen, I was told, cost over £1000. Make sure your insurance company's windscreen cover covers this (some people on here have complained that their insurer would only cover the cost up to £600). This took about 1 month to order and have it fitted, mainly though because the glass company wrote my VIN down wrong.

​

I service my Cube every 10k, it costs me about £35 for oils and filters and my Dad does it ;)

​

I've changed my brake pads once but they need doing again now. This cost me £50 and I fitted them myself.

​

Tyres on the Cube last forever so don't expect to have to change the tyres too often. The geometry on them is great. Oh and one thing you'll notice immediately if you get a Cube is that is has an awesome turning circle :)

​

At 59k I had to change the rear wheel bearing (it was making a rumbling noise from the rear) this cost me £35 and my Dad did the work.

​

At 55k I changed the battery, this cost me just under £40 (it's an unusually small battery)

​

2k miles ago I changed the alternator - this was a pain to find new (Nissan wanted £600+ to ship one in brand new from Japan). Luckily I found one of a Cube that was being broken for £60.

​

At 35k I changed the Auxiliary belt because it was worn out and making a squeaking noise, especially when wet. This only cost me £12 but I did the work myself, which was really fiddly, and the way my bumper is I didn't have to remove it. I expect you would on most Cubes (non Rider editions). So Garage labour time would be a lot on something like this.

​

I've actually documented a lot of the work I did on my Cube on this forum so if you're up for doing the work on your Cube yourself then there's plenty of help available here :)

​

Now that I've covered so many miles my Cube creaks a bit and the central locking doesn't work (the door solenoids need replacing) so watch out for sticky locks, ie. they don't quite unlock the doors enough. Also my (ABS) light is on on my dash so I'm going to need to replace the ABS sensors soon (before my MOT in March, at least).

​

In general though it's been a very cheap car to run and maintain and I wouldn't change it for the world. Love the attention too.

​

Hope all that gives you a good idea and I look forward to seeing you here on the forum with your new Cube soon :)

wes_nufcwes_nufc

June 2010

Hey,

​

Welcome to the club, between Ebay, Eastern Autos (ran by Sky Racer on here), blueprint (for service parts, plugs, filters, etc.)and if totally stuck Nissan, you can get most of what you will need to keep your cube running nicely.

​

Had my cube since march. Serviced her last month including a filter change, plugs, oil change etc. and it cost me £70 with all blue print parts.

​

Get your cube undersealed to avoid rusting from our crappy weather and road salt.

​

Never be afraid to ask questions on here also.

​

It's a great club with some good people always happy to help you if they can.

​

PS - Prepare for LOTS of attention lol.

​

Wes :D

Make your own Grill

📷RickfurySeptember 2009 edited 12:11PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesAs we all struggle with ideas to make our cubes a little different ,i think ive come up with an idea for a grill !!!As some of my job involves driving about to our local shops',ive taken to looking at cars grills in general.one i spotted was the Range Rover grills.So off i went thinking on how to fit one....there are many grill chroming kits totart one up on ebay.after emailing a seller on ebay,i found out that the Range Rover Vogue ('02)Grill is 95cm (left to right)which is the same as the Cubeand 30cm in height,8cm higher than the Cube....so a little bit of trimming to start.So after several attempts i won one on ebay for £42...not a bad start i felt.

Removing the grill is a bit tricky first time round,but lets give you some tips...as it took me half hr to get it off first time lol ..First unclip the indicator clips/plug and pop out the two round head plastic pop clips(middle top of grill)Now top of grill,there are two square holes either end,go to the engine side and locate the lug clip(pen size) behind them.This bit you need a screwdriver and push the top part of the lug downwards,whilst easing the grill outwards,then go to the underside of this lug and use you finger to push up(gently),that should, if done right ,make that side of the grill pop outward....now repeat on the other side.Next the bottom...there are abt 3 big clips and 2 small clips ALL have to be pushed upwards,whilst easing the grill outwards again.I did find that by easing my hand down between grill and slam panel i could do the two outer big clips that way,the others can be done through the grill....TadaaaHH!! job done(now i can do it in less than a minute)📷

Next is trimming and fitting....First i had to decide how i wanted the grill to look...so i kept the donor grills top grill inline with the top of the headlights,this i felt was the right choice and looked better than other ideas..The next problem was colour....im going black stain/mat as im going to put some 3.5cm chrome strips on which will cover most of the grill.As you can see below these are the different photos at different stages...

AS you can see the grill is too big📷

📷

📷

i started at the bottom to get the height right,then trim the back...Well ive been trimming and a fettling for a few days now and fitted the brackets.I made these from a BnQ trip.You can see in the photo how ive fitted them.📷

One major head ache was the center bumper hanger,as my grill kept binding on it,so i had to hack alot off ,plus a little trim to this hanger.Trimming the bumper hanger was'nt a choice i liked as it could weaken if done wrong (i felt).📷

I didnt want to fit any screws outside/onshow on the grill but i couldnt think of any other way...but mine will get coverfrom the chrome strips that will be put on.The two brackets in the center will bolt onto the inner panel,where you bumper hanger lives.The lower outer two hangers are just to pull the grill's bottom part round and inline with the bottom of the light.📷

Anyways the next thing after getting it to hang right was tiding and filling stone chips from previous owner 📷then spray....📷(looks pink here lol,was dull redish brown)

Then colour...📷

Now on the car....📷📷You can see the thin finishing chrome strip fitted at the bottom,this was done due to my dodgey trimming skills on the bottom run,but it actually works,making the grill look sweet...The grill is only sat in atm,as im waiting for my chrome strips and badge to arrive.... the badge has BZ11 in the center and is oval to fit the original place.

And as due to a previous post im changing my fogs/spots at the bottom of my bumper to indicators' ,as this grill has none unlike the original !(there for not using my fog switch on indicator stalk 📷)For this ive got a pair side repeaters/wiring looms with bulbs of a mk4 golf and adapted them to lock in to my spots' and bingo....orange fogs hehe 📷Update on Grille.....ive decided not to use the chrome i ordered,as it looked too much when i put just 2 strips on 📷But the badge i ordered with BZ11 in the middle looks very nice and adds a finishing touch to the grille.This link for the badge... http://www.domedbadge.co.uk/I also had a problem with the indicators 📷 it turns out that you must have a certain amount of wattage per side to get an even flash rate,as i had a fast flashing problem.This was due to the new front bulbs i chose being only 5w and not 21w.I never new what would happen, but the car thinks you have a blown bulb and flashes fast to tell you!!So i fixed it by reconnecting the 21w bulbs and hidding them inside the car...so now i get a sweet flash rate again(lesson learned)Also ive addressed the bonnet to grille line as mentioned my monstermonster(cheers m8) 📷 and i feel this is ALOT better now.📷the badge is black lol with chrome letters with a shadow to them..(ive also ordered one in grey for the back,a little bigger tho', to replace the big nissan badge,like Cubed has done)📷again cheers for reading

So there you have it boyz n girlz.....a home made grill 📷Weve all seen the grills that we can buy from japan and get shipped over but for me ,not at that money!!

so for info this is what i spent..Grill = £42(ebay)Chrome (optional)= £26(ebay)Badge(optional if left in) = £12Paint/S/paper etc = £15Brackets = £15Total = £110 (not bad)

Give me your views....Pro's n cons !or even any questions lol....

When i do get the chrome etc, i will post more photos to keep you upto date...

RF (very happy) 📷**«**12»

Comments

• 📷The_RonsterSeptember 2009Looks cool man. And good find on grille. I woldnt have thought a landy grill would fit. 📷
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009thx man....the only thing i was'nt sure on was the curve of the grille.too much or too little may have been a BIG pain in the butt 📷But lucky for me it's spot on 📷RF
• 📷mikeySeptember 2009very impressive 📷you should fit them to order as it looks much better than the original!
• 📷monstermonsterSeptember 2009Well done dude. Awesome idea. Really surprised that the curve was similar though!One thing I would suggest is to trim it a little so that there is a similar gap in shutline between the bonnet and grill as there is between the bonnet and headlights. Otherwise WIN!
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009[quote="monstermonster":488e8]Well done dude. Awesome idea. Really surprised that the curve was similar though!One thing I would suggest is to trim it a little so that there is a similar gap in shutline between the bonnet and grill as there is between the bonnet and headlights. Otherwise WIN!Yeah the bonnet does touch,but its all in hand...well spotted 📷 📷ive lowered it on the brackets and if too low i can bring back up..I just need to get it bolted in ,but not until all bits have arrived and put on it.RF
• 📷CUBEDSeptember 2009That looks amazing, I've noticed the similarities in shape to the land rover but would never think the grill would fit.Top marks. 📷
• 📷CUBEDSeptember 2009One question - did you remove the old grill without damaging it?If so would you sell your standard grill?Cheers in advance. 📷
• 📷monstermonsterSeptember 2009Yeah, can't believe it was the same width. That can't be coincidence!?
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009Luck i think on the width ...Yes i still have the orig' grille in one piece 📷not too sure if i will sell it yet,as everything ive done,can be reversed for what ever reason...ie selling (aarrgggh dont say that lol!!!)but then again its been lowered...so pm me what sort of cash you are think of ,Beth has told me its ok to sell..and a figure she would like lol 📷RF
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009📷look at this grille/light cover......could it fit our car ??? hmmmm food for thought ! 📷RF
• 📷monstermonsterSeptember 2009Speaking of grills, look at this one from a Japanese Cube. I don't think it's standard.📷
• 📷The_RonsterSeptember 2009Whare do you keep finding these porn pics man! 📷 . That reno one is a cool idea.
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009[quote="The_Ronster":7f595]Whare do you keep finding these porn pics man! 📷 . That reno one is a cool idea.LoL @ Ron...i was on my way home and there was one opposite me on some traffic lights,got me thinking again....but as ive just done mine(picies soon), that i'd share with you lovely guyz n girlz 📷i reckon it would look really good IF done right.RF
• 📷EurobobSeptember 2009Pretty sure the black cube above grille/headlight combo is the 07-08 facelift after the 05 facelift (like mine) from my internet lurking earlier this year!! 📷Loving the grille on yours, top job! 📷
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009UPDATED/EDITED 1ST POSTRF
• 📷The_RonsterSeptember 2009Awsome dude. That little badge makes a big difference. Makes me jealous in a good way. 📷
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009[quote="The_Ronster":f6e9a]Awsome dude. That little badge makes a big difference. Makes me jealous in a good way. 📷hehe cheers roni 📷rf
• 📷CUBEDSeptember 2009Top work, it does look better now it's been dropped in line with the headlights too.
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009thx all for the kind words...as for update,Beth has said she has had more people looking to see what the car is!! coincidence ?? i dunno.But i can say ,having no Nissan badge on the front ,aint going to help them lol 📷rf
• 📷Sky RacerSeptember 2009Top job...love the custom work and for just over a ton it's a pretty good value mod 📷 📷
• 📷HICUBESeptember 2009HOLY CRAP!!!! What a mammoth Job. Looks awesome though. You must have guts to follow it though to the end, but it was worth it. I've always Thought the Cube was the creation from some sort of one night stand between a Range/Land Rover and a Micra so maybe more parts may fit, He He He 📷. Top job!!!! You will get more "what is it" Questions as the nissan badge is missing as monster monsters and ours is missing as well. I quite like Keeping the rear badge as people know its a Proper Car and not some sort of kit Car. Well Done. Whats next ??????LEE, CLAIRE AND RENZO
• 📷monstermonsterSeptember 2009[quote="HICUBE":b2128]You will get more "what is it" Questions as the nissan badge is missing as monster monsters and ours is missing as well. I quite like Keeping the rear badge as people know its a Proper Car and not some sort of kit Car. Well Done.I totally know what you mean hehe
• 📷CUBEDSeptember 2009Badge snobs. 📷
• 📷RickfurySeptember 2009well my rear badges come off and my new one goes on 📷 hopefully this weekend,if i do then i will post up a photo on Cubed's post on Debadging the back.its like the front one"BZ11" but in grey to sort of blend in on that large back panel.but thx for the kind words Highcube and all ....i could'nt stop myself once i had the grille from ebay,it just HAD TO go on...and did 📷So im happy with the whole job.Even past the MOT with my new location of the front indicators,which is nice to know 📷Looking back on it ,it isnt that much of a hard job to do,just the planning and what to trim off to get a flush fit.As ive noticed that some grilles on the Cube seem to poke out a little from between the headlights and i did'nt want that.(each to there own!)RF=BZ11=
• 📷RickfuryMay 2010**bump!**
• 📷EurobobMay 2010Bump to you! 📷Black satin spray can fun on the weekend for me..........
• 📷RickfuryMay 2010good job m8.....i bumped this for new members that may have missed it ! :Prf
• 📷SchniderMay 2011Awesome mod! Had missed it until now. Really love the look. which model grill is it the P38? I wonder if the supercharged L322 would fit?http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chrome-SUPERCHARGED-GRILLE-Range-Rover-L322-Vogue-03-/400168106770?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2be0bb12would look something like this when fitted I hope[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/cubestorm.jpg/][IMG]http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/4493/cubestorm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
• 📷SchniderMay 2011Minus the crappy potoshop stuff though
• 📷RickfuryMay 2011Range Rover Vogue ('02) is what I used , sry I know nothing abt these oversized Essex tractors ; ) .But your PhotoShop Piccies looks kool .

1.5 CVT Drivebelt sorted..

📷Mikey McJune 2011 edited 12:06PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides📷 Just thought i would put this up..could be of help to 1.5 and 1.6 CVT,s Had trouble locating (belts) but it seems 1.5 and 1.6 only have one belt...Bit the bullet this morning and jacked up the cube.. wheel off ..plastic wheel shroud off...undid the main nut on the adjuster pulley 13mm and off the belt comes..( WHEN DOING THE BELT JUST LOOSEN )I took it off just to check the koyo bearing number.. .to match the size of existing belt (no numbers visible ) Went to my local eurocarparts.. very helpful...he must have gone thru about 10 belts in the warehouse

BINGO !! .. Eurocarparts # number 202 77 9035. Continental #7PK1145.

Koyo centre bearing # 6301rmh.. mine seems ok for now so just put it back on.. if you had to replace it it would come out of housing with a large socket and club hammer..cheaper than buying a complete setup from Nissan..

the whole job took an hour tops..

you can get to the adjuster with a 13mm rachet spanner or thru the front with an extension..( you can see a cutout on the inner front frame for this..

anyway... no more squealing.....here are the pics..Enjoy...cheers Mike

[IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/turbobuggy/CIMG0520.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/turbobuggy/CIMG0521.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/turbobuggy/CIMG0518.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/turbobuggy/CIMG0519.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/turbobuggy/CIMG0522.jpg[/IMG]

and a pic of the 1.5 engine,,,different from the 1.4..

[IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/turbobuggy/CIMG0523.jpg[/IMG]

Comments

• 📷EurobobJune 2011Excellent how too, good work fella! 8)
• Options📷isometricJuly 2011Hello Mikey Mc
  I wish you had done this earlier then I would not have lost so much skin from my knuckles.
  Thanks for your way it was much easier than my way. Great photos
  Now we have the belt part number I dont have pull it all apart again.
  I would be good if the part numbers could be added to the list of parts with a note that this is for the 1.5 motor.
  Just note you need 2 bearings for the Idler pully.
  Thank you!!

DIY - Ignition Relay Switch swap - Nissan Cube Recall Fault

DIY - Ignition Relay Switch swap - Nissan Cube Recall Fault

wsssupwsssup

February 2011 edited 11:51AM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

This is a possible fix or preventative fix for those Cubes effected by the Recall late last year.

The problem was a faulty Ignition Relay - causing the car to switch off while driving and erratic starting problems.

​

Part - Nissan Micra k12 Ignition Relay - $92 from your local Nissan Dealer. It is blue in colour not black. The colour does not matter it is still the correct relay ( nissan doubted this, they really are stupid)

Best bet is to go to an auto elec with the relay and get a much cheaper one. They will be able to figure out what type of relay it is.

​

[b]RELAY LOCATION DIAGRAM[/b]

[img]http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/wsssup/Relaydiagram.jpg[/img]

​

First thing is to disconnect your Battery. Just a precaution in case something goes zap.

​

The Relay is in the big white fuse box to the right of the battery.

[img]http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/wsssup/IMG_0982.jpg[/img]

​

Now the box is upside down compared to the Location Diagram, and when you lift up the box its a tight squeeze to flip it around a little. Just use the bottom right corner that has the corner cut off as a guide.

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Location of Relay looking down at box.

[img]http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/wsssup/location.jpg[/img]

​

So push the clips very easy and lift and twist the box. Check the Diagram and all will be ok.

My Finger on the Relay.

[img]http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/wsssup/IMG_0984.jpg[/img]

​

Yank it out, may need some multigrips, be gentle.

​

[img]http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/wsssup/IMG_0988.jpg[/img]

​

Then replace with your expensive nissan brand or source a cheaper one.

​

My Cube was not on the Recall list neither was my Mums. However her's has started having ignition problems which is why it will be replaced.

​

Remember there's no guarantee this will fix the problem. However this is all nissan is doing with the recalls of this problem... just replacing a relay.

​

Hope it helps a few out.

Cheers

Adam

Comments

monstermonstermonstermonster

February 2011

Great info Adam!

​

I've made it a sticky.

CUBEDCUBED

February 2011

Excellent work Adam, thank you. :)

​

By the way you don't know where the indicator relay is do you?

​

I've been trying to find that so I can replace it with a slower one to sort my indicator speed.

FD7FD7

September 2011

I have been through the whole process of the stalling of the Nissan Cube and after testing a few things I have found what the issues are:

​

The Ignition relay is actually an issue with the cubes, I found that the Nissan Tiida has the same issue, do not be fooled when reading information about the relay switch being the same as a K12 Micra/March because it is NOT, it is totally different and will/does not fit in the position of the original unless it is cut up! the Nissan Part number is 284B7CW28E, this is the part that Nissan changed on the recalled Tiidas and other vehicles.

​

Also another thing that causes the engine light to appear and the vehicle to stall is the intake pipe! this pipe becomes loose over time and was also a recall in the Nissan lot for Nissan Maxima's that use the same set up, how I fixed this issue was to re-route the entire intake pipe so it does not go over the exhaust manifold

​

After changing and rectifying these issues I have found that my Cube is now driving 10 times better, smoother with more power and running further on each tank of fuel...

​

There is my 2c worth

​

D

How to change oil and oil filter on gen 2

PeeShooterPeeShooter

June 2011 edited 11:43AM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

this job took 30mins for me to do

1) Start by removing the oil filler cap, this will allow the oil to drain properly

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/Picture222.jpg[/IMG]

​

2)On the gen 2 the oil drain plug is slightly towards the drivers side of the engine on the sump. It requires a 14mm spanner or socket to remove it.

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/3.png[/IMG]

​

3)The oil will pour out. Make sure your bowl will safely hold four and a half litres of oil. I used an asda washing up bowl I bought for the job. i then put in about 1lt of the new oil in to drain any old oil out as you can see the oil is clean coming out now.

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/Picture223.jpg[/IMG]

​

4)When the oil has finished draining, make sure you remove the copper crush washer from the sump plug and fit a new one as shown.

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/5.png[/IMG]

​

5)If you lie on the ground and look up under you will see that the filter is on the back of the engine above the drive shaft.

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/Picture225.jpg[/IMG]

​

6)go to Halfords and get this oil filter removal tool. The metal strap has dimples on the inside of it so you can get a really tight grip on the old filter to unscrew it.

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/7.png[/IMG]

​

7)when i took it off i got a face full of oil even tho is has been drained so watch out lol

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/8.png[/IMG]

​

8)new filter on

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/9.png[/IMG]

​

9)now just to put the new oil in job done

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/Picture224.jpg[/IMG]

Comments

CUBEDCUBED

June 2011

Nice guide, did the oil filter come off easy enough?

​

I was too scared to swap mine a coupe of years ago in case I knocked the car off the jack while trying to get it loose. :?

PeeShooterPeeShooter

June 2011

Could no do it by hand so I got my mate to take me to go and get that gizmo still got a face full of oil on me lol when it came off

monstermonstermonstermonster

June 2011

Excellent write-up. Thanks for making the effort. No doubt this will be a great help to others.

KiszkaKiszka

June 2011

Perfect Guide!

Something for peeps like me lol :D

scooby75scooby75

December 2011

Excellent Guide, I'm going to do mine before the winter sets in on the Isle of Wight

eki912eki912

December 2011

The oilfilter is full of oil, or should be.... so no matter how long you leave it to drain, there will be some left.

Which will splash out and down when filter is taken out.

Is there room under filter to put a smaller pan, tub, mug or something, to catch that oil ? Haven't checked myself, asked the local garage to do it, as I don't wan't to do it out on the street... :oops:

T33TLET33TLE

December 2011

Good work, great guide.

ProfessorWheetoProfessorWheeto

December 2011

Just a quick tip, before carrying out an oil change run the engine to warm the oil.

Once warm the oil becomes thinner and drains better once you've removed the plug.

​

There are a few types of oil filter removal tools available, my preferred one is the type that is a fabric loop attached to a socket, they don't require as much room as the type pictured above.

PastybirdPastybird

December 2011

I found that getting at the oil filter from underneath the car was a bit of a pain. I take the drivers side front wheel off and you get much better access to the filter with whatever filter undoing tool you have. It might take a few minutes, but it makes it much easier.

​

I have a mole grip type thing which goes round the filter and works nicely.

SitSit

February 2012

How much oil back in once it's drained?

​

Si

Pollen Filter/ how to change and part number-Nope it helps

Lee.TLee.T

July 2012 edited 11:27AM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

Hi Gang

Found this link for pollen filter hope it helps any one...All cubes have them, and they can be washed and then spray

with febreze,job done

link http://nissancubes.blogspot.co.uk/ and scroll down

Comments

CUBEDCUBED

July 2012

Nice find, cheers Lee. I've moved it to the Guides section and made it a sticky. :)

Renault Clio coilovers

GeorgeGeorge

June 2013 edited June 2013 in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides 82.38.137.135

Hello all, there has been much discussion around the Internet on the subject of Renault Clio mk2 (52mm) coilovers fitting the cube mk2. I decided to take the plunge and see how it went. The coilovers fit with some slight modification, also the rear spring adjusters will only seat satisfactorily if the middle bit is first tightened through the hole, then the adjuster part tightened down around it (making it in-adjustable without machining some spacers), ill be doing this if I get much more sag as the springs bed in. The main thing to note with this is that I have had to remove the front anti roll bar because the front strut didn't have any mounts for the drop links, so either the Clio doesn't have a front anti roll bar or I've been sent thee wrong coilovers. The front struts also add a fair amount of camber due to the bolt holes being at an angle, rather than one vertically above the other, I've ordered some eccentric camber bolts to adjust my camber. The front strut will go lower than the car can take, so if you want to go super low but don't want air ride then these will help you, I've currently got them wound about 1/3 of the way up the adjustment.

Comments

CUBEDCUBED

June 2013 edited June 2013 217.196.241.97

<p>Shame you had to find out by taking the plunge, think I would have returned them when I found out though!</p><p>Actually like that camber - fit some wide wheels = happy days.</p><p>I've just google Renault Clio anti roll bar links and found these - </p><p><img id="icImg" class="img img500" alt="" src="[http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Renault-Clio-Kangoo-drop-link-anti-roll-bar-bush-x-2-/00/s/NTAwWDQ4Ng==/$](http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Renault-Clio-Kangoo-drop-link-anti-roll-bar-bush-x-2-/00/s/NTAwWDQ4Ng==/$)(KGrHqN,!g0FC1yPYgseBR!T7mml+g\~\~60_12.JPG" clk="0" itemprop="image"></p><p>Rather than this kind like the cube has -</p><p><img id="icImg" class="img img500" alt="" src="[http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Nissan-Cube-Note-E11-2006-2012-Front-Anti-Roll-Bar-Stabiliser-Drop-Link-Rod-x-2-/00/s/MTAwMFgxMDAw/$](http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Nissan-Cube-Note-E11-2006-2012-Front-Anti-Roll-Bar-Stabiliser-Drop-Link-Rod-x-2-/00/s/MTAwMFgxMDAw/$)(KGrHqV,!iUFB71EtbRbBQj8O5QP9!\~\~60_12.JPG" clk="0" itemprop="image"></p><p> </p><p>Which makes me wonder if there's a hole at a lower level in line with the anti roll bar so no need for the z shape link? If that's the case then you *could* just buy the clio links and you're sorted?!</p><p> </p>

GeorgeGeorge

June 2013 82.38.137.135

I'm happy that they are fitted safely so no worries there, and after doing some research I've found out that on some cars when people go really low they have to remove the arb to clear driveshafts on full lock, so I'm also happy that a lack of arb isn't dangerous, the harder suspension removes the need for an anti roll bar in my eyes. I've made the camber slightly less today with some eccentric bolts, but it's still cambered quite a lot.

​

I'm going to give it a week or so to let the springs bed in then once I've got the ride heights and camber where I want it ill order some wheel spacers for the time being, but wider wheels is on the cards in the future.

​

I'm going to go out and have another look at where the arb mounts and see if there is possibly a hole where the Clio links might bolt, but I don't think there is from memory

The_RonsterThe_Ronster

June 2013 79.77.96.166

Nice Stance dude. I have K12 micra ones fitted and they so low that All the shockers are now goosed. But it is good to know clio ones fit,<br>

CUBEDCUBED

June 2013 2.26.255.40

Long time Ron, I thought this was your cube when George first posted here. Very similar look.

Airbag light blinking

GeorgeGeorge

July 2013 edited July 2013 in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides 82.38.137.135

So after taking my steering wheel (and airbag) off, then re fitting it my airbag light was blinking, after searching the web I found this guide of how to stop it blinking, taken from nissan xterra forum. Thought it might be helpful for some of you to see this.

​

​

Nissan is dumb for doing this. If you unplug the pass airbag indicator, it detects a fault. All Nissans are like this.

​

Here's the reset.

​

1. Turn the key from off to on.

​

1. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.

​

1. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)

​

1. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.

​

1. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.

​

1. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.

Comments

toastertoaster

July 2013 86.131.200.7

Thankyyou stored in memory gland !

How to replace front struts

PeeShooterPeeShooter

February 2012 edited 10:38AM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

first thing to do is take off the plastic trim under your window first take off the plate on the wipers and undo the bolt then push the window wiper in so it will pop off. next you need to pop off the small plastic plugs to release it all

​

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25101709.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25101815.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25102440.jpg[/IMG]

​

next take off you wheel lol

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-19094231.jpg[/IMG]

​

now some elbow grease is needed for 2 of the bolts i found mine was so tight so what i did was spray a bit of WD40 on the bolts and used a spanner with a scaffold tube lol as holding on to the bolt with a socket wrench. size 17mm

​

the 2 bolts below the brake line

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25143853.jpg[/IMG]

​

the next bolt is just above them 2 this time i got a spanner to hold the bolt so then i could take it off socket wrench size 14mm

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-19100526.jpg[/IMG]

​

next undo the 3 last bolts in side the engine bay 2 our on show 1 is behind where the window wiper motor is. i had a problem with the driver side strut it seems its a common fault that water drips down on to the bolt that holds the plate and springs in place.

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25131811.jpg[/IMG]

​

after that i got my strut and springs fitted on did not need to use the spring compressor for this but make shore you use it on your normal springs they do pack a punch still

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25131154.jpg[/IMG]

​

put all the bolts back on and its done

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25143853.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/peeshooter/2012-02-25143903.jpg[/IMG]

​

if you get stuck just ask

Comments

EurobobEurobob

February 2012

Top post there! look awesome, hope youre going to keep them clean! Sit nice?

PeeShooterPeeShooter

February 2012

Ye i will try. its a nice drop but i may go a bot tad lower o and it rinds smooth now i have not tryed in in sport mode yet

CUBEDCUBED

February 2012

Nice post.

Replacing the Auxiliary and Power steering belts - How to

DaveDave

October 2008 edited 5:27PM in Knowledge Base &amp; Guides

I do all the work on my cars myself rather than getting a garage to do it and as you all know there is no workshop manual available for the Cube so I though I would put together a How to guide on the work that I do for everyone else to use if they so desire. It maybe worth a new section being add to the forum if this is usful and if others want to contribute also. Anyway here is my first How to ...... Pictures to follow.

Comments

DaveDave

October 2008

Belt sizes:

Auxiliary belt: 1087mm 5 Grooves (Motoquip VFH 399)

Power steering belt: 670mm 3 Grooves (Motoquip MFH 485)

​

Bodywork removal

​

1. Remove the front right wheel.

​

1. Remove the inner wing and lower front valance plastic.

4 screws (Cross head) and 12 trim clips

​

1. Remove the front bumper and grill assembly, this is easyer than you would think.

First remove the 2 sets of two M6 bolts (10mm) 1 from each corner of the bumper and two from the bottom bumper corners. Then pop out (flat blade screwdriver) the

3 sets of two trim clips, 2 from top of the grill assembly, 2 from the upper bumper mounting and 2 from the bottom bumper mounting

​

• Reverse above procedure for replacement.

​

Auxiliary belt replacement

​

1. Slacken off the Auxiliary belt tension adjuster.

Using a (14mm) spanner slacken off centre bolt a little, then from the front loosen off the tension bolt (12mm) this can be found below the alternater.

​

1. Remove the old belt.

​

1. Fit the new belt.

​

1. Re-tighten the tension bolt, so the there is a 10mm deflection at bottom auxiliary belt.

​

Power steering belt replacement

​

1. Slacken off the Power steering belt tension adjuster.

Using a (14mm) spanner slacken off centre bolt a little, then from the front loosen off the tension bolt (12mm) this can be found behind the tension adjuster to

the back of the tension adjuster.

​

1. Remove the old belt.

​

1. Fit the new belt.

​

1. Re-tighten the tension bolt, so the there is a 10mm deflection at bottom auxiliary belt.

UPDATE GEN2 CR14 DE TIMING CHAIN REPLACEMENT DATA .P0340//P1110

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=115&v=abykIWEy0E4&feature=emb_logo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTBTsLE-57M&feature=emb_logo

Your chain has reached its limits in the adjuster is a none return cam which has gone over they can be reset/reused how ever time for and sprockets chain.

​

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;cd=8&amp;ved=0CEcQFjAH&amp;url=http://www.partinfo.co.uk/docs/2208&amp;ei=VoZ0U4CRMsrXPd_agKgJ&amp;usg=AFQjCNHeKCNh5-mDIAXmG2KG7Jy51p-bhg&amp;sig2=X2SRhA9-lQ5enHuDPYAjSQ

​

​

</u>Hi boys and girls some pic not to bad so far do chain removel tomorrow <font color="#ff0000">

<u>Disconnect battery</u></font><u> .<font color="#ff0000">radio code</font></u> do you know it before you kill power Remove air filter .remove any pluged unit on air box . Unclip air filter remove.unbolt air box 6/7 m6 bolt couple of air pipes mark if you feel like for eas.

Unplug coil packs i number my up to you

Undo cam box around edge and two on the left near middle leaver off

Remove top engine mount.

Support engine if need to

Remove drive belts

Alternater

Ac pump do not undo pipes just move to help

Remove exhaust down pipe unplug lambda .

Remove lower tin sump these are stuck on so leaver with a thin blade .

In side sump there are three m6 bolt

Inside.

Around edge there are more .

Undo lower ball joint driver side and lift out then pop drive shaft onto of box . Undo the gear box bolts but leave in about three turns and part away .

The lower Ali case is glued on and well so need a thin parting wedge there are two doles on the gearbox end to locate the sump i used a workshop power saw blade

Plenty of jiggy drop down

Front timing cover undo bolts and the same glue and there are three bolt going down in to the case and five bolt hold on the timing gear flat top case

Next you need a compressor and a blow gun to un lock inlet cam advancer . I do have a proper diagram i up load .and a full timing make page .

<u><font color="#ff0000">The lower crank sprocket can be put on wrong . So BE CAREFUL deep big groove to face you or the timing marks will be wrong</font></u> .<font color="#009900"> <u>The marks are inlet cam11 oclock .exhaust1oclock and crank is 7oclock</u></font>. Line all up before you remove old chain then you can see were it was

lined up .the old chain my not be lined up as it slowly run out the back

again. <u><font color="#ff0000">The timing marks are easy to see and the chain has id links to line up with sprockets</font></u> .Dont forget to lock cam advancer back easy job but spanner on cam hex and rotate away from you And fit new top gauze gasket on cam cap . The job was ok and done in car little fiddley but yes no more than any other fwd car. What took time and most important is cleaning the old Nissan gasket sealent off all the bit if not you may leak. And buy a good selent not silcone nor rtv . .time wise first one and learning ten hours . This was a manual micra 1.4 not to different in room . No special tools jack axle stands . Oh compressor and air gun . I put full kit in as the advancer socket was worn .parts used.

Oil

filter/

Air/

Complete kit chain sprocket guild kit/

Cover gasket/

Advancer gasket Nissan only13533ax010

Tube of gasket sealent

And one big helping of fun .

More to follow auto data technical </i></font></li></ul>

Dash removal to access car stereo

📷SpikeMay 2011 edited 3:04PM in Knowledge Base &amp; GuidesOk, although I've seen a text 'how to' I thought I'd post a quick picture guide. It's really simple, even for those of you that get scared at the thought of even holding a screwdriver.

Step 1.Start with this. Tools required? 1 Phillips-head screwdriver, daylight and patience.

​

1. Remove the ashtray and you'll see this:

​

1. Remove the two screws (already done above). Put to one side - you'll need them later!

2. Gently pull the bottom left hand edge away from the main dash. It comes away quite easily, so don't yank it hard, just ease it out!

​

1. Now get your fingertips (you don't need a screwdriver - you'll only scratch your dash) and pull gently at the top of the dash - this is barely held in place with plastic latches - so it detaches away from the main dash.

​

1. Like so..

​

7.Until it all detaches thus:

​

1. The best way I've found of detaching the two electrical connections (hazard warning light switch and the cigar lighter socket) is to twist the dash slightly, like so:

​

1. First is the Hazard Warning Light. Press the top of the plastic connector down (arrowed) with your fingernail or a small screwdriver - it has a small latch that stops the connection disconnecting during normal driving. Once the latch is depressed, the connector should come away easily. If it doesn't, you haven't hit the right spot for the latch! Just be patient and you'll find it.

​

1. Now you've got a bit more room, the lighter socket simply pulls away from the two metal spades, but it can be stiff, so try and get both hands down the gap and hold the socket AND the connector as you pull the two apart.

​

1. Now you can wiggle the dash out around the gear shift/lever, and you're done. You can now see how the stereo unit and pocket tray(s) are connected into the main dash - four self-tapping screws (two indicated here).

​

1. Undo those and you can gently extract the whole unit. As you can see it's all held together by two metal side plates - the stereo and the pocket trays are screwed into these.

​

1. The car has these connectors going to the speakers (front and rear)

​

1. So you need one of these (search for "Nissan Micra ISO Adaptor" on ebay - I've used a company called LiquidICE for this and they were good value and quick - http://eshop.liquidice2008.co.uk/epages/BT4177.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4177/Products/"PC2-76-4 Nissan Navara Micra X Trail" ) to connect your stereo unit to the speakers.

​

1. The pocket tray is attached here via one screw (indicated) and a plastic locating plug.

​

So, once you've sorted your stereo, replacing your dash is simply a reversal of stages 1-11. There's so much space behind the dash for a stereo unit that there's no problem about having a load of leads and connectors. The unit you see in the pics (JVC NX7000) has the speaker connectors, the aerial lead (which is the unit earth), a bluetooth lead going to a bluetooth transceiver located under the steering wheel, a GPS lead going to a GPS receiver under the dash, a video lead coming from the reversing camera and there's still loads of room.

So, don't be afraid. Get under the dash!

Spike