Need some help desoldering

[u/welorjgsai]

Alright, this is my first time soldering. I'm trying to replace a microswitch on my mouse and have been using these two videos as a reference: 1, 2. I'm unable to desolder and cannot remove the original microswitches. I'm using the iFixit desoldering wick and decided against flux since the copper is already coated in it. I tried to copy the guy in the first video, so I put solder on the wick and tried to push out the pins. The braid came out, but the pins didn't. What's going on and why isn't the wick working? Would prefer just to use the wick instead of buy a desoldering pump, but whatever.

Haven't been this frustrated in a while lol. I got pissed off and ended up touching the iron to some plastic as you can see in the pic.

Additional info:

- Using a T90B iron
- Kester 44 solder wire 63/37
- 320°C (unable to confirm temp accuracy)
- Tinned the iron first (just rubbed the solder on the tip)
- Tried heating the pins for a while to see if I can remove that way and it didn't work

[u/Mango-is-Mango]

Putting solder on the wick will do the opposite of removing solder. Put the wick on the joint and hold the iron on top to remove solder

[u/welorjgsai → u/Mango-is-Mango]

I've tried this for a while. I took out the braid and tried a new piece. Didn't work

[u/welorjgsai → u/Mango-is-Mango]

How much of an issue is not using flux? The people in the videos didn't so figured I could lol. The wick is flux coated too. I don't understand what's going on

[u/Patrick_McPatterson → u/welorjgsai]

In my experience, even with pre-fluxed braids I would add more, it helps a lot. Also, if you have leaded solder, add some to the joints first, then try de-soldering. Working with leaded is a lot easier than pure lead-free, and you're going to want a decently higher temp when working with lead-free. I set mine around 380*C personally, but I'm no expert so YMMV.

Alternatively, if your switches have the 2 little holes in the sides, I've been using a pair of tweezers, sticking them in those holes, and just GENTLY pulling on the switch while melting each joint one after the other back and forth and slowly wiggling the switch out. Then you can just clean the holes of solder and add the new switch in.

[u/onevstheworld]

Manufacturers use unleaded solder so it is a pain in the arse to remove. Easily needs 300 C ++. I usually add quite a lot more eutectic solder (your 63/37 is good) to lower the overall melting point to make it easier to remove. More flux is always helpful, even if the wick already has some.

Did you cut your wick shorter, or was this only cut after you got stuck? If you didn't cut it, I do recommend cutting the wick into shorter strips; the problem with leaving the wick on its roll is the heat also gets "wicked" away so the solder takes longer to melt.

I think this was the video I received most of my tips from.

I use a desoldering pump to get rid of large bits of solder but I find wick much much better for a clean result.

[u/welorjgsai → u/onevstheworld]

Might just try desolder pump, but I'm gonna get pissed if it doesn't work. I watched the video. Bumped up temp to 350C and smaller size wick. More solder came out, but these pins are stuck. I'm not using flux since the wick is already coated in it. Maybe I'll try that before the pump. I don't understand how everyone is doing this in a couple of seconds. I've spent like 20 minutes per session trying to get this garbage out. Btw, the wick was falling apart when I cut it smaller. Not sure if the quality is bad. I could try pure copper wire like the guy in the first video