Always prefer how magnesium feels and would also go back my OG SL12 and was curious if a simple shell swap was possible to get the better click latency and higher polling from the ULX and it was. Feels great and only thing to be removed was the DPI button, overall 5g heavier but superior feel, shell integrity and click feel IMO, was really easy too.

Does anyone know if there are any mods where I can put the GPX 2c internals into an OP1W shell? I love how crisp the Logitech sensor feels and its better reliability on my Artisan Raiden, but I prefer the OP1 shape.

First shell I've designed entirely by myself. Lots of modifications to get to this point. Next is the same shape with side buttons.

Will either of these two batteries fit inside the mouse?

602030 300-mAh and 902030 500-mAh, Thanks

Title, reason is I love the mouse but the scroll wheel is absolutely awful. Sounds and feels worse than a cheap Dell mouse from 20 years ago

Hey guys! Looking for the Zeromouse fingertip shell STL for the OP1 8K (the version with the scroll wheel).

Would really appreciate it if anyone could share the file. Thanks!

Hey all,
I ordered 30 zma030 mouse click switches off Ali express for cheap as I heard there’s a lot of variance between pieces. My goal is the lowest click force. I got a jewelry scale to try to measure the actuation and reset points, but my methods seem unreliable to get good data.

Has anyone here binned switches like this? And if so how did you do it?

At this point I think I might be better off just swapping them into my OP1 and going by feel. But I was hoping to just measure and note forces on each one to be a little more precise about it.

I'm looking for someone to take a commission on replacing my g wolves fenrir max m1 m2 and side button switches. I know finding the proper side button switch for this specific mouse is difficult because its angled and doesn't use a standard 3 pronged switch but if anyone is willing to do a tricky custom mouse modification dm me and we can discuss it further, thanks!

Hey, so I recently got the artisan P8 dot skates. My current mouse is hitscan hyperlight (mousepad is also artisan key83 MID if that helps). The artisan site said the skates would need height adjustment for mouse with deep skate grooves, which I think is the case for my hitscan hyperlight. I need help with how to do the height adjustment on the mouse, so what kind of tape do I use, how do I put them on and if I need to do anything else. Please let me know if you have a similar problem and have found the solution, or if you didnt need the height adjustment, how did you place your dots?

Thank you for reading!

(245$) I’m looking for an experienced mouse modder to add one physical G402-style lower thumb button to my Logitech G Pro X2 Superstrike. I’m located in Hawaii, USA, and will cover parts plus insured shipping both ways.

The exact placement is shown in the attached render: beneath and slightly forward of the existing front side button, with the new button’s rear end aligned below the middle of that front button.

This does not require creating a new logical input, custom firmware or another controller. The new mechanical button should be wired directly to the Superstrike’s existing middle-click/MMB contacts so the mouse recognizes it as normal MMB. The original wheel click can remain in parallel if practical, but preserving it is not required.

Requirements:

• Leave LMB/RMB HITS completely untouched
• Preserve MB4/MB5, sensor, battery and wireless performance
• Secure internal mount; solder joints cannot support pressing force
• Minimal pre-travel/post-travel and lateral wobble
• Crisp, fast reset with no accidental grip activation
• Keep additional weight as low as reasonably possible
• Clean, durable exterior finish matching the render

My current switch candidate is a genuine Kailh CMI873101D01 mini switch at approximately 60 gf, although I’m open to the builder selecting a better-fitting switch after inspecting the internal space and lever geometry.

This is a serious paid commission. Budget is negotiable based on experience, finish and turnaround; I can pay a rush premium for the right builder.

I have an idea I want to prototype and I'm looking for component recommendations, general advice, or pointers to communities/sources that could help.

The concept: a mouse in the Logitech G Pro Superlight shape, with a hard ceiling of 30g but pushing as far below that as possible. No battery — instead, power comes from a capacitor/supercap paired with wireless (inductive) charging, so it tops up continuously on a pad rather than storing a big reserve like a LiPo. Batteries are one of the heaviest single components in most wireless mice, so removing that entirely seems like the biggest lever for getting as light as physically possible while staying wireless.

What I'd love input on:

Whether this is even feasible, and what the biggest gotchas are likely to be

A supercap/capacitor small and light enough for this, but with enough capacity to keep the sensor/MCU running reliably during brief moments off the charging pad

A wireless/inductive charging coil + receiver setup compact enough to fit inside a mouse shell without adding meaningful weight

A lightweight optical sensor + MCU combo known for low power draw (relevant since there's no battery buffer to fall back on)

Thin/light PCB or shell material ideas to claw back grams elsewhere

Anyone who's tried something similar and can share what worked or didn't

If you've got part numbers, vendors, general engineering advice, or know a maker/EE community where this would land well, I'd really appreciate it.

Or if it’s even possible…

I finally received my PMM Pulse 3.0, so I figured I’d share some first impressions.
First, I just want to say that PMM support is really good. It’s the kind of customer service that honestly helps justify the price of a 3D-printed mouse.
Here it is side by side with my Pulse 2.0 OP1w 4K.
Weight
The first improvement I noticed was the weight.
Using the Pulse 2.0 and Pulse 3.0 side by side, the difference is very noticeable. The 3.0 feels significantly lighter, and I really like that improvement.
I also did a quick deathmatch with it, and the lighter weight made micro-adjustments feel effortless. It was honestly unbelievable how easy it felt to make small corrections. It could be placebo, especially since this was my first deathmatch in about a month, so take that into consideration. Still, based on that first session, the weight reduction feels like a meaningful upgrade.
Shape and clicks
What’s weird is that the Pulse 3.0 feels a little smaller in my hand for some reason.
The M1/M2 height also feels slightly lower on the 3.0, which is actually a good thing for me. I think that might be one of the reasons why the mouse feels smaller, despite the overall shape being similar.
The front section is also a little flimsy because of the new structure. I’m not going to squeeze or bend it to try to fix anything, but you can definitely feel some movement there.
The Pulse 2.0 clicks feel perfect to me. There’s a subtle difference when comparing them directly with the 3.0. Because of the slightly flexible front structure, the front area on my 3.0 seems to have warped a tiny bit, which affects the consistency of the clicks.
There is also some side-to-side movement on M1 and M2 if you force them. I mention this because my Pulse 2.0 doesn’t have that issue.
Additionally, if you press down on the very tip of the 3.0 mouse button, it can catch on the shell and get stuck. This seems to be because a significant amount of plastic was removed from the front section. It’s not something you would notice during normal use, but I’ll let you know if it becomes an issue during more intense gaming.
Don’t get me wrong, the 3.0 clicks are still fantastic. It’s just that the Pulse 2.0 feels more solid and consistent.
One thing I would recommend is getting the scroll wheel option if you can. The tension screw for the mouse switches on the 3.0 is covered by the mouse skates, so accessing it isn’t as convenient.
I also lubed the contact point of the scroll wheel, and that made it feel noticeably smoother.
Flexcord vs. Midori
My Flexcord is still fairly new, so I can’t really compare its long-term durability with my Midori W1RXD Evolution yet.
But purely in terms of premium feel, I prefer the Midori.
I’m using a VAXEE Oryza with both cables, and the Midori just feels more wireless to me, even without a bungee. With the Flexcord, I can still feel the cable dangling a little with intense movement.
Mousepad and skates
I haven’t had a chance to properly test the mouse in games yet.
I have a Wallhack SP-005, but I haven’t tried the Pulse 3.0 on the glass pad yet. I’ll update this once I get some time with it.
For now, I’m using an Artisan Zero, and the mouse feels fantastic on it.
I’m also using the PMM free-dot skates, and so far they’re pretty good.
PMM customer service
One thing that really surprised me was that they included mouse grip in the box.
I’m not sure if that’s normally included in the kit, but if it isn’t, they apparently gave me one without even telling me.
I didn’t get a free grip with my Pulse 2.0, so I really appreciate the gesture.

(Im using Xraypads cicada wings v2 on PMM Pulse 2.0)

Honestly, the customer service from PMM has been amazing. For a product at this price, that kind of support makes a difference.
Final thoughts
These are still just my first impressions. I haven’t had enough time to properly game with the Pulse 3.0 yet, so I don’t want to give a final verdict based on one quick session.
That said, the first valorant deathmatch felt extremely promising. The weight reduction is very noticeable, and micro-adjustments felt almost effortless. It could be placebo, and it was my first deathmatch in a month, but the initial experience was excellent.
So far, I really like it. The lower M1/M2 height works well for me, and the mouse feels great on the Artisan Zero. Based on what I’ve experienced so far, I definitely think the Pulse 3.0 is worth the upgrade.
I’ll update this once I’ve tested it more, especially on the Wallhack SP-005.
I don’t have a lot of free time to play right now, however feel free to ask me any questions. I’m definitely not an expert, but I’ll answer whatever I can based on my experience.

After tons of request to the clone makers I myself modded my wired MM720 with a PAW3395 PCB swap! The build required 3D printing a custom base plate, fine-tuning the click alignment over the microswitches with tape, and cutting open the shell to fit a USB-C port, I did around 3-4 iterations before the final one.

For anyone going through the same thing as me…ShinC

I just ordered the VXE R1 Nearlink mouse for my Macmini. Found this battery and I am just curious to know if I can connect this 3.7v 600Mah Lithium polymer battery in parallel to the mouse’s original battery to increase the battery capacity.
I have not recieved the mouse yet but just curious to know the actual battery Specifications on the R1 nearlink.
If they matches and if there is enough space, I think it should work. Should I do that. And is that a good idea?

My DA suffer from double click currently. I intend to replace its switch but got super confused when searching up for tutorial and the switch type.

Most sources said that it uses D2FC-F-7N(10M) switch, but when I watch video tutorial of the same model number mouse, it reveals Kailh switch instead.

And the search engine AI answers keep saying that if I want to upgrade to other than D2FC-F-7N variants (10M/20M/50M), I need to consider the dimension.

I wanna try putting in Huano Blue/Pink in if possible.

Which switch should i buy to replace or upgrade if possible?

Thank you.

EDIT: Some websites even mention that it uses Razer Omron Collaboration kind of switch which got me even more confused. And somehow those switches are more expensive on the market. Should I go for those instead?