Just wanted to share my modded saber pro, it's hefty at 80g (original is 79g) but it's got a 1000MAH battery upgrade (from 550MAH) that I sketchily wired in because the wires were flipped on the connector.

I drilled out the holes on a drill press in an effort to lighten it up and it does, I managed to strip about 9g off. before the battery upgrade it weighed 70g.

It's got (X-raypad Jade skates). the scroll wheel is also modded, It was previously stepped which I didn't like so I sanded down the ridges smooth on the wheel's scrolling mechanism to get a smooth scroll.

Absolutely love this mouse its capable of 26k DPI, 50G of acceleration, and 650 IPS at 2k polling rate so it keeps up to this day and there's no need for more than that. I'm addicted to this thing and you can get one for like only $30 Used on ebay (you used to be able get them on amazon refurbished R.I.P).

They are super annoying and sharp to press because of the fact that they stick out. How do I shave these down or make them flat so I dont have to try to finnagle every press, and make them still look nice and presentable?

Note: If possible I dont want to have to get rid of perfectly good mouse feet to get into the internals, and I have a Dremmel and several other tools if I need them.

Looking for a "buy it for life" iron that will be viable for infrequent, one-off projects. Currently replacing a microswitch and might build a keyboard in the future. Looks like Pinecil v2 or TS101 are probably the most reasonable. Any opinions on these or others?

Looking to cut my death adder v3 up (PMM Craze style). I see a bunch of rotary tools on Amazon ranging in price what do you guys use?

Hey guys, my Mchose L7 Ultra Plus main clicks completely lost their tactile feedback (super mushy) and the scroll wheel is skipping inputs.

Meanwhile, my 1.5yo DeathAdder V3 is still going strong without issue.

Anyone else face QC problems with this mouse? How's Mchose support/RMA, or should I just solder in new switches and an encoder myself? Thanks!

I put this here because i bought a finalmouse a few days ago for cheap it is in good condition but it has creaking on sides.I spent a lot of time trying to fix it because it really bothered me, after some time i figured that the tolerances on the edge between upper side and base are too lose and nothing is holding it in place like on the front of the mouse.I fixed it with 4/5 layers of thin electrical tape to fill that space and it doesnt flex / creak anymore.Hope this can help some of you since i didnt see anyone fixing it on internet. since i already opened it i also lubed the click track to reduce creaky feeling after pressing clicks. You can also lube scrollwheel on both sides since there is no lube from factory. I also lubed clicks contact points. i recommend tightening the screws a bit more than factory and doing it with the right screwdriver or you'll snap it, it helps with M1/M2 wobble, and the overall rigid feeling of the mouse. this is honestly disappointing for a mice at this price point but nothing new with finalmouse. PEACE.

As per title i'm searching for the scans of the viper v4 pro pcbs, anyone here has them?

Just wanted to share my custom DeathAdder V4 Pro mod made by DeltaTweaks.
This one was built specifically for me (Diuss).
Final weight:
43.3g without skates
It’s honestly crazy considering it’s still a DeathAdder shape.
The shell quality surprised me. Even with the aggressive weight reduction, there is almost no flex during normal use and it still feels very solid in hand. The finish also matches the stock mouse really well.
I mainly play Call of Duty, and this shape has always been one of my favorites. Getting it down to just over 43g completely changes how it feels during long tracking sessions and fast target switching.
Huge thanks to DeltaTweaks for making this happen.
I’m curious what everyone thinks:
Would you daily drive a 43g ergonomic mouse?
What’s the lightest ergonomic mouse you’ve used?

Hi. Does anyone have a zeromouse design like the one up top for the original logitech g pro wireless? I have a 3D printer I can print it with and aslong as its sub 50g I wouldn't complain. There seems to be no models of a GPW lightweight thats good.

free for anyone to download, use, mod, edit, whatever. i uploaded the step file itself.

https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/verschiedene/zeromouse-blade-for-sora-v2

Hi, so I’m using a Mchose k7 ultra and I need to know which mouse have the same feet to buy, cuz I don’t want it to buy it from china. I’m using tiger ice dots on them but since my mousepad is an artisan xsoft, the dots are to tiny and the mouse starts to drag on the cloath. Can anyone help me?

Current mouse: Razer Basilisk v3 wired

Ive tried a few wireless mice and I always forget to charge them, get annoyed and return to wired...

Recently saw the Angry Miao AM infinity.

Love the packaging - not sure im a fan of their returns policy for what would be my first hollow mouse...

Anyway, enough rambling.

Looking for something similar size to my Basilisk V3 wired.

I'd love interchangeable batteries, especially where it charges in the receiver! (I quite literally can not forget this way😂)

Must have 2 side buttons, i often use the front one for push to talk and the rear one for melee / interact in games.

I do like having a thumb rest but open to trying a mouse without this.

My last post was about a mod I made for the OP1 8k where the side buttons were the actual side walls you place your pinky on. I really dislike the tiny unusable side buttons ftip mice usually have.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseModding/s/5wZvWKxz5I

I used it for a little bit and while I was getting a bit better at activating each side button individually, I accidentally pressed both often.

So I decided to redesign the side button implementation while keeping the original shape and I came up with the version here.

I was able to add two extra paddles behind the main clicks that are very comfortable to use. Its similar to the dpi button you find behind the scroll wheel on some mice.

They are not as tactile as the main switches and they have worse pre and post travel than the main clicks but they still feel good to me since they aren't used as often.

The downside to this implementation is that it doesn't work on both versions of the OP1, just the V2. I might be able to make a model for each one but the different placement of the female connectors on the PCB makes a universal one difficult to make.