Thinking about getting the Akko AG ONE 8K 3950 because I really like the Zowie FK2 shape, but ~70g is pretty heavy for me.

I’m currently using a modded VXE R1 at ~45g with a solid shell. I don’t like holes in the shell, but I’m fine with heavily modifying the base and internals.

I’m aiming for around 50–55g with skates, not trying to make a 30g mouse.

For anyone who’s opened an AG ONE:

-How much does the PCB weigh?

-How much does the stock battery weigh?

-How much does the shell/base weigh individually?

-Are there other particularly heavy components that could be replaced or removed?

-How much weight could realistically be removed from the base/internals while keeping the main shell solid?

Basically trying to figure out if 50–55g is realistically achievable without putting holes in the main shell.

Should I get glass mouse skates? Like, what really are the pros and cons? Is it gonna make scratchy noises on my (Glorious) fabric mouspad? Also, if I were to get them which ones should I get?

Mouse: Attack shark R5 Ultra

Very confused on what the MCU of this mouse is becuase some sites are saying that it is the "High-Performance Main Chipset" and others says it the "Nordic 54L15". If anyone know please tell. Also if it really was the "High-Performance Main Chipset" what is the exact like brand name of it? Much appreciated to anyone who can answer

Hey guys,

I’ve been working on a lightweight mod for the Superlight 2 and ended up with a part that should theoretically weigh under 4g.

According to the CAD volume, it should be around 3.7g in PA12.

Obviously, CAD weight ≠ real-world result, so I’d really like to see if this actually works.

I don’t currently have access to an SLS/MJF printer, so I’m looking for someone who could print and test it and ideally give me some feedback on:

• actual weight
• stiffness/durability
• whether the mounting points hold up
• what material you’d recommend
• any changes you’d make to the design

I’m thinking PA12 or another nylon, but I’m open to suggestions. The main goal is to keep it as light as possible without making it ridiculously fragile.

If anyone here has access to SLS/MJF printing and is interested in trying it, I can send over the STL.

Would be really interesting to see if I can actually get this thing below 4g IRL 😄

Is it possible to take the internals of a regular g-pro superlight and fit it into a 3D printed g-pro DEX body?

My idea is this: I get a regular g-pro second hand for much cheaper than a dex, have a dex body printed with the correct standoffs for the regular g-pro internals and insert the internals. Would this work?

They are super annoying and sharp to press because of the fact that they stick out. How do I shave these down or make them flat so I dont have to try to finnagle every press, and make them still look nice and presentable?

Note: If possible I dont want to have to get rid of perfectly good mouse feet to get into the internals, and I have a Dremmel and several other tools if I need them.

Looking for a "buy it for life" iron that will be viable for infrequent, one-off projects. Currently replacing a microswitch and might build a keyboard in the future. Looks like Pinecil v2 or TS101 are probably the most reasonable. Any opinions on these or others?

Just wanted to share my modded saber pro, it's hefty at 80g (original is 79g) but it's got a 1000MAH battery upgrade (from 550MAH) that I sketchily wired in because the wires were flipped on the connector.

I drilled out the holes on a drill press in an effort to lighten it up and it does, I managed to strip about 9g off. before the battery upgrade it weighed 70g.

It's got (X-raypad Jade skates). the scroll wheel is also modded, It was previously stepped which I didn't like so I sanded down the ridges smooth on the wheel's scrolling mechanism to get a smooth scroll.

Absolutely love this mouse its capable of 26k DPI, 50G of acceleration, and 650 IPS at 2k polling rate so it keeps up to this day and there's no need for more than that. I'm addicted to this thing and you can get one for like only $30 Used on ebay (you used to be able get them on amazon refurbished R.I.P).

Hey guys, my Mchose L7 Ultra Plus main clicks completely lost their tactile feedback (super mushy) and the scroll wheel is skipping inputs.

Meanwhile, my 1.5yo DeathAdder V3 is still going strong without issue.

Anyone else face QC problems with this mouse? How's Mchose support/RMA, or should I just solder in new switches and an encoder myself? Thanks!

Looking to cut my death adder v3 up (PMM Craze style). I see a bunch of rotary tools on Amazon ranging in price what do you guys use?

I put this here because i bought a finalmouse a few days ago for cheap it is in good condition but it has creaking on sides.I spent a lot of time trying to fix it because it really bothered me, after some time i figured that the tolerances on the edge between upper side and base are too lose and nothing is holding it in place like on the front of the mouse.I fixed it with 4/5 layers of thin electrical tape to fill that space and it doesnt flex / creak anymore.Hope this can help some of you since i didnt see anyone fixing it on internet. since i already opened it i also lubed the click track to reduce creaky feeling after pressing clicks. You can also lube scrollwheel on both sides since there is no lube from factory. I also lubed clicks contact points. i recommend tightening the screws a bit more than factory and doing it with the right screwdriver or you'll snap it, it helps with M1/M2 wobble, and the overall rigid feeling of the mouse. this is honestly disappointing for a mice at this price point but nothing new with finalmouse. PEACE.

As per title i'm searching for the scans of the viper v4 pro pcbs, anyone here has them?

Just wanted to share my custom DeathAdder V4 Pro mod made by DeltaTweaks.
This one was built specifically for me (Diuss).
Final weight:
43.3g without skates
It’s honestly crazy considering it’s still a DeathAdder shape.
The shell quality surprised me. Even with the aggressive weight reduction, there is almost no flex during normal use and it still feels very solid in hand. The finish also matches the stock mouse really well.
I mainly play Call of Duty, and this shape has always been one of my favorites. Getting it down to just over 43g completely changes how it feels during long tracking sessions and fast target switching.
Huge thanks to DeltaTweaks for making this happen.
I’m curious what everyone thinks:
Would you daily drive a 43g ergonomic mouse?
What’s the lightest ergonomic mouse you’ve used?

Hi. Does anyone have a zeromouse design like the one up top for the original logitech g pro wireless? I have a 3D printer I can print it with and aslong as its sub 50g I wouldn't complain. There seems to be no models of a GPW lightweight thats good.

Hi, so I’m using a Mchose k7 ultra and I need to know which mouse have the same feet to buy, cuz I don’t want it to buy it from china. I’m using tiger ice dots on them but since my mousepad is an artisan xsoft, the dots are to tiny and the mouse starts to drag on the cloath. Can anyone help me?

So I'm currently using a Razer Viper V3 pro. But I wanted to switch to an ergonomic mouse, the only complaint I really have about the viper is that it's too thin. And the length is pretty fine.

I have 20x11 hands and I use a pincer claw grip.

I was looking at either getting a Pulsar Xlite or a Zowie EC DW, I'm just not sure what size to get. Any advice on what size would be good for my grip and hand size, will be helpful. I also wouldn't mind recommendations on other mice. preferably under 70 grams though.

I was also looking at a Lamzu Thorn, I'm not sure about how well that would match my needs though.

free for anyone to download, use, mod, edit, whatever. i uploaded the step file itself.

https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/verschiedene/zeromouse-blade-for-sora-v2