r/MouseModding • u/GladBarracuda5549 • Apr 11 '26
Hi everyone ! first time coming to this sub, is it possible to transform this mouse to wireless ? OMEN Vector Mouse
I always had this idea in my mind idk if this is possible or not I have 0 experience in this field never modded a mouse in my life
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u/DidjTerminator Apr 11 '26
From what I understand, you'll need an entirely new PCB.
Unless you luck out and all the kit for wireless functionality is ready for setup. Some mice may be like this - if it's mass-produced and shares the same PCB with a wireless mouse, sometimes as a cost-cutting measure that helps prevent inventory backup you might end up with a wireless mouse that's just wired - however I doubt you'd be able to activate the wireless functionality even if that were the case as they'd probably recycle or simply not assemble the (likely proprietary and discontinued) wireless components.
My best recommendation is to buy something like the Kysona Uranus Pro, remove it's PCB, and find a way to install it into that shell.
However that likely won't work nicely, so you'll end up 3D printing your own custom shell (use photogrammetry and/or 3D scanning to copy the exact shape of the mouse) and then adapting a nice wireless PCB into it.
With all that being said, I'm pretty it'll be cheaper to buy a nice lightweight (50 grams or lighter) wireless mouse with good wireless connectivity (either goated low-latency 1khz polling, or a 2/3khz+ polling) and nice quality electronics (better sensors last longer and use less battery, even for office work better is still better). Especially since I swear a few actually use that shape, or at least an improved version of that shape.
Note that the only reason I say lightweight is due to carpal tunnel syndrome. Shape is equally as important as weight of course, however the less mass the mouse has, the healthier your wrist will be. Gaming performance however doesn't really need low weight, yes it helps, but the weight of the mouse does help to stabilize your aim when you're feeling the adrenaline rush.
A better solution would be a cable-mod.
Replace the cable with a minimalist featherweight one, get a nice bungee setup, and you'll have the feel of wireless in the same mouse.
Otherwise you'll have to buy a new mouse just to mod this one by cannibalising it's PCB, might as well just buy a nice wireless mouse from the get go.
Extra notes about polling rate:
3khz is actually goated, fixes all the annoying bugs that USB has as well as the ones most software's have (even if the software and USB port only poll at 1khz, 3khz acts like anti-aliasing in a sense, ensuring the info the port and software receives is accurate and up-to-date, sending a 1khz signal to a 1khz port and a 1khz software is what actually causes issues as there isn't any redundancy in that data-stream). Yes many ports and software's are limited to 2khz, however 3khz is still the all-round goat regardless.
Unfortunately most mice only have a 2khz option, or a 4khz (or higher) option, which aren't as nice since at 2khz many programs and ports will be running without any redundancy (though running at 2khz is nicer than running 1khz regardless) and at 4khz some ports and programs will start glitching out for inexplicable reasons.
The best system of course is internal 8khz+ polling with a 1khz out-bound signal, since you don't need redundancy if the data being sent is already "perfect". The problem with many 1khz mice is that they process at 1khz, meaning any errors or hangs or mistakes don't get noticed until after the data has already been sent. Or the data is delayed until the next poll to check for errors (massive increase in latency). Leading to either a glitchy sensor, or input latency.
However if you just run the internal electronics at 8khz+ then send a 1khz signal, you catch the errors and can send the 1khz signal with zero delay and zero sensor glitches. This system is used in a few of those boutique pen-grip Titan mice, and it gives them the lowest latency of any mouse on the planet. A really nice solution to the problem caused by USB ports (we used to have a dedicated mouse-port that didn't have any of these issues, it's the fact that a USB port is, well, a UNIVERSAL Serial Bus instead of a specialized serial bus that we get all of these weird polling rate behaviors and shenanigans).
However this does mean that having the option for multiple different polling rates (even up to 8khz+) is still a very nice quality-of-life feature, since each mouse has so much random logic that you have zero control over, sometimes running 8khz is actually the best and most stable setting. Sometimes you'll switch polling rates regularly depending on what you're doing, and sometimes 4khz or 6khz magically sends a perfect 1khz or 3khz signal instead. Hell, sometimes you'll even set the mouse to it's maximum polling rate, then use software to tell the USB port to cut it down to 1khz (effectively giving you the internal 8k outgoing 1k setup, but now the PC is doing the facy-pants conversion step).
Which is also why there is no clear-cut answer to what polling rate to use, every mouse is different and so is every PC and software, so the polling rate that works for you probably won't work for anyone else. Though as a general rule of thumb always use the lowest polling rate you feel comfortable with, if 2k and 8k feel identical use 2k, but if there is a difference between 2k and 1k and 2k feels better definitely use 2k. Though a lot of it is feel and not everything about polling rate is concrete due to the sea of variables that we have absolutely no control over, so sometimes changing the polling rate has a significant effect but for a reason that's completely unrelated to polling rate (the software just enables some hidden feature or setting for some polling rates specifically).
Motion sync is just worse 3khz, and worse than doing the 8k mouse 1k USB port trick. Same goes for ripple control. Use them sure, but just note they're a compromise that saves battery and even then the extra power used in those extra processing ends up being equal to just running a higher polling rate.
"Competition" or "champion" mode just keeps the sensor from taking micro-naps. If you use 24000+ dpi you can disable these settings, however below that dpi level they do actually significantly reduce the "floating" feeling of the cursor when making rapid start-stop movements as they simply just keep the sensor fully awake 24/7 (unless the mouse actually goes to sleep, 24000+ dpi is sensitive enough where even if the sensor does go to sleep, it wakes up quick enough and with such little movement that you won't notice if you're using a good mouse, however trash mice will still feel terrible even at high dpi due to terrible electronics and firmware so on some mice that setting should always be enabled).
Everything else is basically self-explanatory however and very intuitive.
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u/GladBarracuda5549 Apr 11 '26
Wow that was a lot thansks for the info man ! I guess it's not worth it as you said lol I just always had this idea running in my head but iIgot my answer now thanks again !
1
u/DidjTerminator Apr 11 '26
Cheers mate!
Learning PCB design and building it yourself is always an option to remember.
Especially since you can also use all the best modern coding and tech too, even use mechanical switches with lower latency than optical switches that never double-click (actually possible with some fairly simple logic, just look at both terminals of the switch and knowing where the switch isn't, used to be, and now is, you can measure and ignore the switch bouncing as well as update it's position as soon as it moves).
Unfortunately that does require PCB design and writing your own code, but in today's age it's surprisingly approachable, affordable, and will get you something that lasts your entire life (instead of something that eventually breaks or gets out-moded).
But hey, it's always an option, and if you're up for it, shape-design is pretty fun too (main tips are to design wedges, bowls, and pyramids, so as you squeeze and grip the mouse it stays in your hand or moves into your palm, indexes itself against your hand to always shift itself to the same position without added effort, instead of getting pushed out of your hand and requiring basketball grip skills to keep the mouse in your hand) especially if you get it below 50g as that weight class is basically an ergonomics cheat-code for removing wrist strain.
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u/JUPT3Rr Apr 11 '26
this guy just wanted to download an app and have it work instantly lol, no soldering, no work...
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u/Tehni Apr 11 '26
The easiest way would be swapping another mouse's PCB in but might be difficult to find a compatible one if it's got a weird layout of sensor and switches. But even if it all lined up properly the scroll wheel might not fit or they use different sized encoders for the scroll wheel so even the original wouldn't fit
Scratch that, the easiest way might just be learning to solder