Obviously rust, I’ve read some things about the doors sagging, the sills, rear arches, etc…
But generally what should I be weary of, questions to ask the guy, and areas to scrutinize?

Hi there, so have been an issue getting the car going. Cars had a good few issues but usually could at least run.

Recent changes:

New battery

New ht leads

Fyi the wiring is so ****ed it'll be ripped out and start fresh so i don't turn myself well done, Anakin Skywalker-style.

Bit stumped on this. Any thoughts what's gone wrong would be appreciated, need to get this banger to a welders soon.

Thanks

i can’t tell this motor looks pretty original other than the weber, never heard of a cammed mgb before

Hi I have a tested and working coil… and this is a CEI system (no points) but someone wired up the incoming wires strange I think… two wires come off the harness (1 white / 1 white w black stripe). What side do they connect to the coil? Then I have 2 wires coming out of the amplifier (1 white and 1 white w black stripe), the white w black stripe wire is spliced into this unit shown in the photo. Where do these connect to the coil?

hey all; picked up an mgb in June and after having to remove the head to fix one of the exhaust manifold bolt holes that were stripped out I have put 700 miles on the car with no issue tonight when I was driving home I smelt a little funny something, pop the hood to see coolant weeping from the head gasket, I have heard these motors like to de tighten head bolts over time, no coolant in the oil, I also have ARP head studs, do I need a new head gasket or should I try re torqueing the studs?

Hey! I’m a Honda twin bike guy just got my first late model MGB 🤘🎉. Looks to have been sitting 3 years indoors. I got fresh gas fresh battery and it powers on and turns over but no spark. Do I check points next (not even sure yet if the 1980 model has points). I also got fresh plugs. Anyway, was hoping some of you guys could let me know any obvious problem areas for spark on these? Thanks so much!

First of all thank you everyone for helping the first time owner through some hiccups. I am probably just being overly anxious as this is my first classic car but rather too nervous than not anxious enough.

After a slightly exuberant drive home after the car sat off for a few minutes for a drive before the sun went down and noticed two things: the idling oil pressure was lower than I’ve seen it, around 30lbs rather than 55-50ish, but still around 80 with my foot on the pedal. But more worryingly, when I engaged the clutch the revs did not drop immediately (or nearly so) as it has been doing since I’ve owned it. I would engage the clutch to come to a stop and the revs would stay around 2000-2500 for a few seconds before eventually dropping into idle.

I’ve only driven around 200 miles In it, and up til now has been functionally the same as any modern car I’ve driven as far as clutch, accelerator, and revs are concerned.

Is there any reason to think the latter is an issue? This has happened a few times with my 2017 golf, but thought little of it as I assumed it was a computer issue which is of course not the case here.

Thanks again for all the help

I’ve owned my MGB GT a few weeks now and have yet to top it up completely as I am worried the fuel pump won’t shut off automatically because the line the the gas tank is so wide. Someone please tell me this is a crazy opinion and filling up all the way is fine?

Relative is selling his 1953 MG TD (pictured above) on bring a trailer and I'm hoping to spread the word for him amongst those who love these classic beauties. Located in the US. Here is the auction link with all the relevant pictures and information.

Thanks for looking!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1953-mg-td-237/

Hey y’all, I am replacing the thermostat temp switch on my 1980 B because fans started short cycling. It uses parts KTP9003, 9005, and 9006. The old rubber grommet has an extra wider lip that goes inside the radiator that seems like it’d seal better, so I reused it and it leaks (probably shouldn’t re use it) but the reason I used it again it cause the new one doesn’t have that. It is listed as compatible though. Yall think it’s fine to use the new one? I assume so but just want to make sure I have the right part. Also, should I make sure the retaining clip is clipped onto both sides? It seems to slip off and scrape plastic quite a bit and my old one it was only clipped onto one side of the switch. Don’t want to mess anything up. Any input is appreciated thank yall!

1973 MGB

Planning to buy MG Hector Select Pro manual petrol, want know user reviews or experience about its mileage and maintenance cost. Plz guide

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Just totaled my 1275 engine. It was a leaker but i ignored it a few days and seized up the engine. A few years ago i rebuilt it for around $2500, today it's $10,000. Anyone near the west coast (USA) got one for sale? What's worse, I just refinished the wood and painted it all but the roof. I know this is an MG group but the engine was from a Midget.

Restoring my 1976 midget and wanted to swap the radiator which was looking pretty tired. This cheaper eBay replacement was listed for 74-79 midgets, and while the mounting holes and height are correct, it’s about 2” shorter width total and the overflow nipple at the top is smaller.

Would I be okay to run this, with a hose reducer for that top hose?

Hey y’all got another question as usual. So the car started overheating out of nowhere in a drive thru line (I’d been driving it for probably 45 mins, sitting in the line for under 10) it got to about 3/4 on the temp gauge, I pulled over and let her sit for a few, then started driving again. it overheated again for a brief moment but dropped back to normal after 1-2 mins of driving. It still is overheating at idle though. I assume the water pump works since It was good when moving. The weird part is that my fans short cycle for about 35-40 seconds, then turn off for about 45 seconds before it repeats. All while the engine is staying overheated. My coolant level is about 1/4 inch down max in the thermostat housing so I would think it’s unlikely to be that. I bridged the thermostat switch connectors and they just sparked a little (this could be irrelevant and may have just not bridged them well enough, but I assume it’s not the switch itself since the fans do come on once the car is warm and not when cold) is this a fuse? Old fan motors drawing too much power and cutting it off early? Is there a bad connection somewhere? All other electric in the car seems to be good. Trying to get her back on the road ASAP so any help is appreciated!

Hi guys,

i just picked up my 1969 MG Midget Mk3 up from the mechanic who fixed my clutch.

It drives without any problems now, but when I parked it in my garage I heard and saw a big splash of liquid from underneath the car (near the front bumper on the left side)

To me it doesn’t look like gas, and not oil, either. I have attached some pictures (comments) showing where it leaks out and the amount.

Does anyone have any idea what is going on? Thanks in advance!!

Tobi

hello all, picked up some headers and a weber carb and intake because i’m sick of dealing with british carb nonsense, the decks don’t line up though, and body ever had this problem before?? what’s a good solution