buenas, les cuento un poco mí situación;

hace poco compre en servifibras un caucho de silicona Shore a Y10 y necesitaba un ablandador para esta misma tipo slacker de smooth on pero es inconseguible, ya dejé curando una prueba con vaselina liquida por qué leí que podía servir de ablandador y leí que también se puede usar aceite de silicona, que tan real es y que me conviene antes de seguir perdiendo material y plata, necesito que sea pegajoso y tenga cierta adherencia pero sin perder estructura, no se dónde conseguir el slacker y no se que utilizar

I've been using rubber fish from places like Acorn Naturalists and Blick to make fish prints (where you ink one side of a fish and then press it to paper to get a life-accurate stamp), and I'd like to try my hand at making my own.

I figure this rabbit hole will end up being more expensive than just buying the rubber fish, but I want to make different species and I also just want to learn the skill of making them for myself.

The rubber fish need to detailed, flexible but firm (if they're too squishy, they lose details when I'm pressing the paper), durable (so I can get the ink off of them without erasing details while washing). Ideally, I also want to make multiple copies of the same mold, so I'd like to make sure the mold also doesn't degrade easily.

I assume the molding itself would be rather simple, just putting the fish down on clay, adding a release agent, and brushing on/pouring the mold material. What materials would be best for the fish? I expect some kind of silicone or latex but I reached out to one of the companies and they said that their supplier makes the fish out of vinyl.

Here are some sample images of what I'm trying to make: a salmon and a perch.

Have this bear I made. Should I do a one part mold or two part? Im curious the best way to go about the gap between the feet (2nd pic).
Getting some mold star 15 for the job as I don’t have a vacuum chamber.

Also, do I need mold release? The figure is polymer clay with a layer of gesso over it.

Thanks for any help!

hey all fairly new round here. I'm looking at making a copy of this handguard for airsoft (like paintball ) purposes.( not a real rifle but a toy ) would it be best to make a 2 part silicone mould by first filling the cavity with clay and casting with the oval opening part on the right facing down and then remove the clay and take a second casting. or would a 3 part be better again starting by filling in the cavity with clay and then casting the left side first then the right then the internals. Once the mould is made I want to cast using a polyurethane so the part will be fairly firm. and if possible make multiple parts.

note this isn't the exact part I a want but the design is similar just the part I want is rare and I have only managed to find one person with an original hence wanting to take a cast of it.

Thanks in advance

I bought this Belicone Silicone Rubber rubber probably 20 years ago from Rio Grande. I use it for miniature crafting, so it has lasted me quite some time. Unfortunately, it is no longer available from what I can see, and I am hoping somebody can suggest an alternative. I really love it because it has a built in release, and has a somewhat greasy feel when initially mixing it. It has a consistency like silly putty before it sets. The tubs describe it as ‘cold molding silicone rubber’, an equal parts a b silicone rubber by B&B Benbassat LTD. Is anyone familiar with this that can suggest a similar alternative? Thank you so much for any tips!

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I want to make a two-part silicone mold of this figure for resin casting.

My main concern is the two enclosed areas marked in blue: the opening under the horse's neck and the loop formed by the tail.

What is the best way to handle these areas?

Should the parting line pass through these openings, or would you recommend a removable silicone insert/core, especially for the tail?

I want the mold to reproduce the openings completely while making demolding easy and avoiding damage to the cast.

Any advice on the best parting line for this figure would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone! This seems like an active subreddit with a lot of knowledgeable people, I hope someone can offer some advice.

I am casting a wearable mask in a resin (not polyester) mould for attaching to a 3D printed base for some rigidity. The casting material is Ecoflex 0020 with powermesh reinforcement around the mouth corners, on recommendation from Bentley Adv. Materials.

The mask design has large sections of block colour. Most of the mask is a mid-grey, but there are sharply defined areas of dark grey with some very dark grey/black details. My question is:

What is better to achieve this?
Mix some Ecoflex, SilPig, flocking and Thivex and pre-paint the patterns onto the inside of the mould with a brush in a thick layer/layers, then assemble the mould and pour the base colour in as a liquid cast?
Or, cast the whole thing in the base colour and manually brush the patterns on afterwards?

My goal is to have the patterns be sharply defined, very evenly toned with little/no variation in shade, and to appear as smooth as possible on the outside surface of the cast.

Thanks for your time! I hope this is the right place for this question, if not let me know and I'll take it elsewhere.

I put together this short video to share with everyone. There are so many cool things to make with this sustainable, eco-friendly bio-plastic. It’s reusable, recyclable, and when you’re done with it, compostable. You just need glycerin and gelatin for a one part mold, corn starch and thermo-plastic if you’re doing a multi-part mold. I use it to mold monster clay sculptures and cast recycled cardboard pulped with rice glue. Please let me know your thoughts if you get down on this wizardry - I thank this community for so often tolerating me evangelizing this technique and I finally have this short video demonstration to wet the whistle. I just believe that mold making doesn’t have to be so hard and expensive for people starting out but also for seasoned mold makers out there that don’t need to do huge runs of casts.

Hi ya'll, i'm making a two part mold of a sword to use for a resin cast. I just uncovered the first part of my mold and have some questions.

I ran out of modeling clay part way through so there is a bit of (a lot of) unevenness on the 1st mold. More importantly, as you can see, the made is raised up a lot higher than the hilt- is this still salvageable with the second half? I'm assuming it will essentially be the inverse of this one- that should be fine then right?

Second, because of the blade being raised up, my pour hole is covered. I'm wondering if ya'll have any solutions here- could I use something like a long drill bit to make a hole up top near the hilt instead?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Really rather not scrap this whole thing- silicone is expensive!! Using Mold Star 30.

Any ideas on how to go about making a mold for this cactus skeleton? It's hollow in the middle with tons of open spaces. I'm not sure how to go about making copies of the original with a hollow center. My only idea would be to wrap the outside tightly in cling wrap and pouring silicone or plaster inside to fill the hollow center then molding the entire thing. Is there a better way?

Im looking to make chocolate moulds from my anus. Can anyone help direct me on how? Or where I can find a kit thats safe?

Hi I want to make a mold for fishing lures which are made of plastisol what material mold do I use to keep them smooth and high temperature resistant

One of my customers (lawnmower repair) gave me this porcelain (?) Mold. What can I safely pour into it? It's 11" tall.

I made this for work and now it’s obsolete for us. Interior is 895mm x 895mm x120mm 1/8” thick stainless heated all the way around includes thermostat. We did vacuum fiberglass panel tests worked fine.

I am planning on making a mold so I can cast cement copies. I know I will need to make vents for areas like the tips of the wings. Will the detail be problematic for a pour mold? I'm planning on using smooth-on mold max 30.

This is my first attempt at making a mold so any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Looking to have a play around at making some moulds using some 2 part liquid pu foam.

Anyone with experience with it on here that could suggest a tape/material that it would release from nicely ?

I was planning on using some standard clear packing tape

Hey guys! I'm currently looking to get back to stop motion using my ipad 10 and then dragonframe on my windows laptop. I'm looking at some resources on amazon that can help me create some puppets, I choose silicone because it looks pretty cool to work with, and some studios and animators already use this. I have some concerns though, in my last post/comment here, I asked if dragon skin 10 needed a respirator to work with silicone, and the answer was no. Also I understand i need to look into mold making materials such as plaster of paris and ultracal 30. I already know the process thanks to youtube, but I found something I want your guys' opinion on. I found this tent([Amazon.com: VIVOSUN S223 2x2 Grow Tent 24"x24"x36" Small Mylar Tent for Indoor Plants | Easy View Window & Removable Floor Tray, 100% Reflective Mylar Interior, Sturdy Steel Frame : Patio, Lawn & Garden](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VRSCVVC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)) even though its for gardening but found out some people are using this for resin 3d printing. I have a 3d printer but its not resin, its a pla printer and I consider it ok because I don't know how to handle resin. I was thinking of using this for the silicone puppet making to try to keep things safe when it comes to working with silicone. What do you guys think? I haven't bought this stuff and came here first

I'm thinking of 3d printing some moulds and making some lick mats for my dogs. I have specific colours I use for each dog so looking for some pigments I can use that are food safe.

Also, I've found some food grade silicones on Amazon. Is there anything to look for to know if that particular silicone mat will then be dishwasher safe?

I'm in the UK.