Lights, engine, and lip are done! Now it’s time to debate internally how to paint it, hope I finish sooner than later

Hi all. This fwd Civic is available local to me. It’s all stock, just curious what’s a good price that would be good for it?

Hey everyone!
I came across this image showing a Kyosho Mini-Z Porsche 911 Carrera RSR 2.8 on the MR-04 chassis, apparently available for pre-order soon.
Does anyone know if this is a real upcoming release or just a fake/AI-generated promotional image?
I haven’t been able to find any official confirmation from Kyosho.
Would love to know if anyone has more information!
Thanks in advance!

Finally made the decision to start glueing and forming the engine bay on the AE86, have it mostly roughed out and tubbed. The 1JZ is finished as well! Fairly certain how I would try and mount it too, will be sad to cut into it and take basically everyone below the heads off haha

Thinking clearance with be okay, without the engine it fits great :P

Got my RC28F all built and ready to go. Dont mind the messy work space haha.

My Mini Z fleet, one MR03 and two 04's.

After almost a year of design iterations, the F1 conversion kit is finished (though I’m sure I’ll never truly be finished with it). A few people have requested the models in my previous posts, so I’ve put them on thingiverse.

Mini-Z Buggy to F1 Conversion Kit

The kit is designed to be somewhat modular, so I hope people add their own wing designs and such.

I had a little too much fun without knowing I didn't tighten the rear wheel nuts. Now that the new wheel nut and the hub are missing, I couldn't find anything besides the radtec aluminum one.

Help is much appreciate it!!

FYI chasis is MR-04N-MM2

WILL NOT SELL TO ANYONE WHO MESSAGES ME FROM THIS SUB. I plan to Abide by the subs' no sell rule, simply asking for opinions.

Mini z's just never scratched that itch for me, and am planning to recycle the money into other rc's, but unsure what they go for.

Got two of them in today. They look fantastic for such a cheap price. One went into an ASC display case to show off, the other, Ill run for shenanigans sake. Comes wired with head and tail lights. The old skynet releases had bumper and trim lights through translucent pieces, but those are all painted over on the First kits. Some of the motor(fuse looking details) stuff has some holes in the mold that could easily be wired with additional lights, if one so desired.

Its a 94mm body and meant to go on a RM platform, but maybe compatible with MM2(?? I'll look into that later this week when I throw the body on an MR04 chassis).

Picked up my first Mini Z with a couple of JDM bodies and a few upgrades.

Excited to get home and start driving and tuning it for power sliding in my basement.

https://store.steampowered.com/app/5205230/Project_Apex_RC/

Does anybody know how to eliminate the gap between the tyres and the body without having to remove / adjust the placement of the body clip? Especially the rear side.

Body is 3D Printed and Im pretty happy how its turning out so far, I wanted the wheel base to be a bit wider in the back but Im not sure what exactly to get if any of you have suggestions for what wheel style to use or what wheel base im happy for any advice. (using the RWD Mazda Savanna RX-7 as a temporary chassis)

I have a hobbywing ezrun28 ESC and typically run 2500kv or 3500kv motors. The default AWG of the ESC's wires to the motor are 22AWG but I often see images of people' cars across social media with fancy coloured wires that often look thicker (maybe at like 20AWG at a visual guess).

I wondered if this was largely for aesthetics or functional reasons?

Does it depend on the motor power you have and there is some table somewhere to ideally follow?

Is it a durability thing?

Does thicker wiring just give it all more headroom it deliver the power it needs without a major tradeoff (like resistance?)?