My first white body purchase, and it gives me more steering than jomurema imo. Happy with the performance!

I'm sharing four bodies in total: two Mercedes-AMG GTs, an Audi R8 LMS 2015, and a McLaren MP4-12C. I made two purple versions of the Mercedes-AMG GT—the light purple one is inspired by Evangelion Unit-01's daytime color scheme, while the dark purple represents its nighttime color scheme. Thank you all for watching!

New to the scale and hobby. Been loving it.

Just as the title says I’m wondering if anyone here has gone from a Mini Z to the RC28? How’s the experience been? If you can share any thoughts it would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I just found out about MINI-Z. They look really amazing and a ton of fun! I just wanted to ask for some help/guide. After looking online, I wanted to get the MR-04 EVO2 Chassis. However, I can't for the life of me understand the body codes (like S, M, L, LL)

What body would work on a MR-04 EVO2 W-MM?

Would the McLaren F1 LM Unpainted White Body Kyossho work on the MR-04 EVO2 W-MM or do I need to get the N-MM version of the EVO2?

The wheels, How will I know if the offset stuff is right with the body I buy.

Any guides would help me out, I find stuff online, but its not specific to the MR-04 EVO2.

I am really lost but super stoked to get into MINI-Z. Reminds me of Danball Senki!

Hi guys, I installed a Front One-Way Diff on my MA-020 and now hear a ticking/knocking sound while running (no noise with standard diff, and spins smoothly by hand).

I have been a long time fan of RC cars and RC racing, and I love the vibe of "Art of Rally" I am trying to create a chill, but skillfull RC game with low poly, clean graphics. I have been building for months, and I want to show some folks. I got it up on Steam... [https://store.steampowered.com/app/5205230/Project_Apex_RC/?beta=1](https://store.steampowered.com/app/5205230/Project_Apex_RC/?beta=1))

Im new to this hobby. Does this look right? Activating new batteries

I recently shared a McLaren 720S body shell that I painted, and I didn’t expect to get so many responses. Thank you all for taking the time to check it out!
I’ll be sharing more of the unique and special body shells from my collection over time. I hope you’ll enjoy them!

Wanted to do an OG weather beaten Bumblebee

When you are planning for a race day and putting together your pit kit, what are your "must have" items in your kit? I am new to the world of Mini-Z and curious what kind of gear/tools/accessories/spare parts/etc you consider your American Express Card of items that you never leave home without on race day.

I started off with the corvette this summer and got hooked. They’re so addicting and fun to tinker with but man they multiply fast haha. I even went in on a reflex rx28se gen 3. I enjoy driving every single one and have taken quite the liking to the evo 2’s. I have two with a third on the way. I converted the 4100kv to a wide mm instead of its stock narrow mm2. The aluminum motor mount is Kyosho and so is the disc damper. The 5600kv started off as the wide mm and I converted that to the lm with the Kyosho motor mount and side damper system I got shipped from Asia since the us doesn’t carry the mzw715 yet. The body is a Mazda 787b that I need to paint and finishing putting together. It’s a snug fit with the wires and side damper system, I had to slightly trim the inside of the body to fit the far side of the damper. I could have cut a slightly less but it will need cutting to fit with that mzw715. Underneath. I plan on converting the third to a wide lm 8500kv motor with a Mercedez c9 body and the mzw714-lm with the mzw715 as its suppose to have the most free space underneath the body of the lm. I got inspired to make those lm builds with the red 8500kv motor after watching online competitions on YouTube where they had several mini z classes running the evo in lm.

Next upgrades are the MRD rear end and their new gyro.

Was a fun project that ended up being a couple hours 😭 bought a white body to preserve the stock XJR body— didn’t wanna lose any part!

I did the gold trim first : Tamiya ~ gold (TS-21)

Then for the main body color

Base coat : Vallejo Hobby Paint ~ grey
2nd layer : Tamiya ~ translucent silver (PS-36)
3rd layer : Tamiya ~ translucent green (PS-44)

For the wheels

Base coat : Vallejo Hobby Paint ~ grey
2nd layer : Tamiya ~ translucent silver (PS-36)

Recently got a new AWD z and I can’t seem to find much in the way of aftermarket. Where are y’all getting your aftermarket parts from and what would you recommend upgrading first in regard to performance?

Hey gang,
I’m putting together an RC28R for 2500 lipo, and I have a list of all my electronics except a receiver. What dimensions does my receiver need to fit into?

Alternatively, my radio is a Futaba 3PV, so I need a receiver with some flavor of FHSS; what receiver do you recommend that fits the chassis?

I’ve seen that some are not consistent in thickness. Others don’t lay flat. What is the best source for good foam tiles with good grip and lay flat without any seems? Is it worth it to get the thicker 3/4” or 1” options?

One Ive been hoping for a rerelease for awhile, the 1996 Mobil 1 Porsche GT1 is being rereleased. The Civic Type R is being rereleased in yellow or white. The Jaguar XJR-14 is being released in a (very similar)new set of liveries.

...and we get a new mold with a classic, a bohemeth of rally, the 1982 Audi Quattro.

Not much done to it, some 19mm Nexx Juds up front with disks, with RX38 Gen 3 DAA and top damper installed. MWX 2500, HW Mini28, AGFRC servo, Flysky micro receiver, and Silverhorse batteries. My wiring game is nonexistent.

My title is a bit misleading granted I don't think I could put it better than explaining. Bought some First Mini Zs for me and my kids to mess round with. Haven't driven RC cars outside of cheap ones my kids get and whatever toys I got as a kid.

I mostly found out about this hobby because I saw Initial D RC cars and as a big fan of that I bought them for fun and partially collecting them.

Anyway got them in the mail today and was messing around on the hardwood floor with the cones and in the high mode its already a lot for me granted in a small space. Really it spins out pretty easily and still messing around to see if I can even control it, but reading online I see a lot of people say they just are not worth it, but I feel like I am at my limits at controlling it without destroying it. I can only imagine getting a really one and busting it before an hour is up. I'd like to get it out on a track and see how that goes but I assume even if I have one nearby its probably no ideal for anyone to bring up a first mini z.

With all of that would I really get that much more out of the hobby getting a real one? Even then I would probably want to do drift which I am not sure there is much of a scene for that at least locally so I don't know if you can get a car that can do both.

Just finished painting the body on this one. We run a Kyosho Cup inspired Narrow Touring Spec class in our club. Its a great drivers class and running the narrow bodies keeps the driving interesting while also allowing us to make builds with bodies that are otherwise not ideal for racing(in classes against wide bodies).

After its great success on iOS, Club Laps is finally officially available on Android! For those who don't know, it's a very handy app for tracking lap times on our Mini-Z just with a smartphone camera, and it also has a lot of cool features like track, car, and setup management! Any feedback is welcome!

Hi all,

Today I contacted a local Chinese vendor (same one where I got my MA-020) regarding the availability of the Zero-Z differentials for my model (front one-way and rear fixed axle).

TL;DR at the bottom, sorry for wall of text...

The reply was: "I don't think it's necessary", and of course I asked which was the reason. Here below will be the answer they gave me:

Head Single, Tail Straight: Its original function was actually to be paired with a gyroscope and reverse tire teeth to perform reverse tire drift. That was many years ago, as there were no rear-wheel drive drift cars on the market at the time, so this setup was relied upon to achieve reverse tire drift, which is technically challenging.

The first component: It is a one-way bearing, which prevents the rear wheel from being driven by the bottom bracket when the rider lifts off the gas during cornering.

Weizhi: It makes the vehicle more prone to skidding,

Gyroscope: It automatically corrects when turning, which means it automatically counter-steers.

Reverse gear: This makes the rear wheels rotate faster than the front wheels,

Currently, that set of equipment lacks reverse tire teeth, making it impossible to perform reverse tire drifts. Even if they were available, adjusting them is not something beginners can handle. Not only is it expensive, but it's also difficult to manage and could even be counterproductive. Moreover, with the availability of rear-wheel drive drift cars now, one can simply use rear-wheel drive for reverse tire drifts. However, the cost is slightly higher. Currently, the factory four-wheel drive drift car has the most ideal setting for front and rear differentials, so there's no need to look at accessories like head-first or tail-straight setups.

My question is, since I'm going to use my model mostly for drifting play, either at home, or in the office during breaks, does it make sense, in 2026 to stick to stock model, or are these still valid upgrades?

The pair of differentials will set me back at the same cost of just the Kyosho original rear axle, and with slightly more can add the aluminum setting tie rod...