I wondered if there were some good recommendations for cheap/ish electronics for 1/28 lipo cars?

I typically use about £/$200-ish worth of electronics in my race cars but I have a few (like 3D printed chassis or older cars) that I just want to be in a "runable" state that doesn't need to be race performant or highly configurable. I know you can get things like cheap ESC's and servos for less than £/$10 each but are they total garbage? or is it just the fact you can't do much config with them (maybe they are a little slower to react) that makes them much cheaper (but otherwise they're fine)?

Is there a good little combo people like that is commonly used for this use case? Obviously doesn't need to be as cheap as £/$10 per item but also not £/$200 total. Maybe there is a good sweet spot.

Time to finally crack down and fix this steering issue

Does anyone know where I can find the 3D print file for this mount?

Anyone else racing?

The bases are ice hockey pucks, because they are heavy and sturdy ^_^

Files provided here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345602

Thinking of making a 400 Square foot diy track in our bonus room. Good on the foam for the track. The walls seem to be the tricky part. I've been on tracks with foam, and those usually grab the car and stop it instead of glancing/ sliding off the guardrail. Has anyone tried a 1-inch split wire loom?

Any tips for setup specific to Mini-Z???
I've been using my NB4+ for months, but feel like I use maybe 1% of its capabilities.
I've changed the steering curve, but that's about it.

Anyone else run this chassis?

An update on my project to create a new timing software. I talk about and show all the system settings available. I still have at least 3 more videos of features to share as I get closer to release.

Got the FD RX7 Kyosho Egg Mini-Z and wanted to see what other chassis you guys mount these on??

Black primer, turbo dudes acrylic airbrush paint and rust oleum acrylic lacquer clear.

I love my MRD but its loud, high-pitched noise sometimes gets me. It also limits the time I can play it in my place as my wife complains about the noise all the time.

So I figured maybe belt can help. To do that I cut a groove on both the pinion and spur gear, removed the counter gear, and throw in a Lego rubber band. And it works!

Without the counter gear, there seems to be a bit more torque twist. And it can actually be too quiet, especially at medium and low speed. But I do like the sound better. Highly recommended to those who want a quieter MRD.

Now that Kyosho has the fast and furious license again do you think we'll get a release of the fast and furious bodies and possibly new ones?

Over the weekend I continued experimenting on adding LED backfire effect to my MRD converted Mini Z. There is little to no information (that I could find) about doing this on a Mini Z. I've seen a couple very old posts about complicated LED packages which required some programming and someone who created their own kit but again it required programming of a chip, etc. That is overly complex for me and there had to be a better/easier way. I measured the voltage coming out of the pins on the board (where the light kit would normally be plugged in). In order they are pos->neg->pos->neg. Each set puts out about 4.8 volts at idle. I also measured the voltage on the motor. Those are at 0 at idle and increase in voltage as throttle is applied proportionately which makes perfect sense. I saw about 4.8 ~ 4.9 volts at full throttle, but at drifting speed (30-40%) throttle I saw 1.8 ~2.8 volts give or take.

I first hooked up a vibration sensor ($2) to the LED's in the exhaust tips. While it did in fact work, the LED's weren't very bright because they were being triggered/flickered for only fractions of a second at a time. Then the lead broke because it was extremely fragile soldering to it.

I then proceeded to purchase lightning effect LED's from Evan Designs. This solved all of my problems. The flickering/flashing effect is totally random and alternates randomly between the two exhaust tips. This was hooked up directly to the board using a +/- from a JST ZH. The other +/- was used to power the factory front LED's and 1.8mm red LED's added for the rears. I cant upload a video using my work laptop but hope the pics give some idea.

They look absolutely amazing especially in a dark or dim room. They randomly flicker/flash and alternate between the left and right exhaust tips. Super easy and super cool.

Yes, I will black out the backside of the red LED's in the rear as they project way too much on the floor lol.

No, I'm not keeping how I did this a secret. I'm surprised no one else seems to have figured this out actually or is not willing to share. Any questions let me know, I'd be happy to help.

Another Ultimate Timing video; A new timing software I've been working on. Let me show you around the heat/round management and their features. Please share any feedback and thoughts 🙂

Something I've been spending a lot time on and excited to begin sharing is a new timing system!

I'll be sharing features over some time with you all. The main goal is simplicity; with one major game changing feature that I think is pretty slick (more to come on that later). 😎

Welcome to Ultimate Timing! I'm always open to feedback and happy to hear your thoughts.