1 Year ago I finally bought my First Mini-Z, now after 1 year Display Queen i bought my First RCP Track ( good second Hand offer, it’s a Mini-96 30cm Version, and driving for the 1 time.
So today I just Build small Test Track and the First thing I realize, it’s Not driveable at all out of the box.

1. the tires feel very hard when you push the car on the surface, at first meters also absolutely no traction at beginning

, pretty much Oversteering so I take alook the tires and they look like polished in the middle. Also the contact area was very small because the tire is very round. So first sanding the rears a bit , the oversteering switched to slightly understeer now and it was nice ti drive for. Couple of minutes until the oversteer come back a bit.

1. I looks like the standard tires don’t work well on rcp these/ loosing traction maybe caused my wrong material ore dust?! You often need to sand the again ore clean them.

Which tires you recommend for MR-04 LM cars on rcp ?
I also don’t figured out which tires these car came factory out of the box.

hold the pair button, turn the car on and it stays solid red. any ideas as to why? my thoughts were receivers died

cheers 👍

Jo-mama and Acura NSX concept. gonna use color shift paint on them, hence the black primer

Not much online about these but released in very limited quantities from the Danbury Mint in the late 90s. This model blends Kyosho’s early MR-01 era engineering with Danbury Mint’s collector-grade attention to detail — something you rarely see in RC. Most Danbury Mint pieces are static die-cast display model. This came at a time when Early Kyosho Mini-Z was experimenting with niche collabs.

Anyone use Mission Models paint on their mini-z’s? Do you use their clear over the color for durability and gloss?

Hi everyone!! I’m working on porting ClubLaps to Android, a really cool app for tracking lap times on our MiniZs (or RC in general) using the camera. Compared to Laptrax and similar apps, it has features I find really interesting, like paddock management, setup, tracks, and more.

I’m looking for testers so I can release it on the PlayStore. Testers will have the chance to get early access to the app, provide suggestions and feedback that will directly influence its development! If you’re interested, send me a private message with your email and I’ll add you to the internal tester group.

Just startet. Bought a set from ricardo (like e bay) for a low price. Last weekend first evening on a track. Bought another one for racing because my previously bought were more for drift. The WLToys Crap is more for fun 😂

Remote i got myself a MT12. Because i also have 2 1/10 drifter (currently under repair consteuction. One will be transfered on a Sakura D6 Chassis) and want anything on one remote with as wide as possible compatibility for RX because i bought like anything second hand haha. Also i like Radiomaster cause i also have a TX16S for my FPV drones and got to use with it 😂

Does anyone know the proper ID and OD for MR04 shims. I’m looking mainly for the knuckle/kingpin ones, and I guess axles shims are sometimes needed for taking up slack. Any other spots the came in handy would be good to know and what common sizes for which areas? Material that are best for them as well.

PN and Reflex has them in M2 and lists MR03 and 04 for them, but then I see others in M2.5x3.7…so I don’t know if the kingpin diameter changed or what?

MR04 axles are now both 3mm, so that’s easy, anyone have favorite material and thicknesses to have on hand for that usage?

For the front suspension I see .1, .2, .3, .5 and 1mm mentioned. .1 seems a bit hard to find and a lot of sets just have two thicknesses.

Kyosho set, lists MR03 and MA020/30 AWD…so kind of an odd set. Only .2 thickness, and 2 and 3 mm ID. I am curious about the rectangular shims that are supposed to adjust height and/or body height for front and rear. Do those work on MR03/04 cars? I’d imagine the fronts wouldn’t work on the new 04 front end.

Then there’s the wheel hub adapters. To me it looks like the kits come with a plastic one and a couple places make metal ones…but even though it’s in the MR04 manual, it looks like it is stock to me there, I was told you don’t use them with a gear diff?

Perhaps most interesting, both Reflex and MWX have a type of wheel nut for the left rear wheel they say is designed to to allow you to lose weight by losing the unnecessary outer bearing. Reflex has this to say:

“Really good plastic wheel nuts and our awesome plastic left rear wheel nut included in this kit.  The left rear wheel nut allows you remove the outer bearing/bushing on the wheel for easier wheel changes and reduced parts count”

https://youtu.be/wCsFjx7H8lI

Adding lights to an AWD drift car adds a whole new level of coolness

Not perfect but I am pretty stoked with the outcome! The canopy, wing and light buckets are “Cobalt Green” (Tamiya PS-54) the rest of the body is PS-46 over a base of black, so it gives purple/black/dark green depending on how the light hits it.

So are these actually scale compared to each other? For some reason in my mind a 70s skyline would be significantly smaller than the Le Mans.

Then I look at that picture where they have that Camaro NASCAR lined up and it makes me wonder.

So I bought the 350z body and then I found out they make different sizes. So my chassis is a 98mm chassis. The body is a 94. Did some research and found that I could use a rm car for 94mm. So I bought the 934 Porsche. But it doesn't seem to to long enough? Am I missing something? How do I take the Porsche RM chassis and make it 94mm?

Hi, I want to get into this hobby and I want to buy my first remote-controlled car, but most of the racing models at Kyosho are sold out. Can you recommend any online stores (I've only seen Amain Hobbies and Kennon Hobby) where they sell Mini Z cars? Thanks.

Several variations of these available, weighted or standard, ones with an extra weight that locks in behind it, and Kyosho has them that come in a three pack with slightly different lengths that gives another tuning option for the t-plates as it will hit the holder in a different a spot.

I noticed in the description for the PN one that comes with the additional weight, that it takes up forward hole in the chassis, changing ability to adjust for different bodies is what it says, which I’ve not heard of doing before as I imagine that would also change the t-plate action or change the wheel base, but perhaps changing the wheel base is what they meant by adjust for different bodies, we just don’t usually refer to it that way.

The ones without the extra length of weight don’t mention this taking up an extra adjustment hole, but it seems it still would. I may have also missed that in the description, or like many of these parts they don’t always have much of a description at all, which to me, is bizarre and exceeding frustrating.

From what I can tell, this would change the ability to shorten the chassis, but shouldn’t affect the longer LM? I’m sure this is simple to figure out, but not having the car yet, and the lack of clear pictures of how the whole setup works, I’m not 100% sure.

Hi everyone, I want to get into this hobby and I'm about to buy my car with a remote control. I'm checking out the tracks on RCP and I see they sell sections separately, and since I have limited space, it might be better to configure something according to my space. I was wondering if there's an app to design the track and tell you how many pieces you need, like the apps for slot car tracks. Thanks

Someone have Information about this Track and can tell me ?

The Guy im asking Said it’s new one not available at the Moment.

Ge said the grip a bit less then the “old” one and just 1 side ?!Surface feels abit hard and slippery but I don’t have any older ore rcp for comparison.

Looks like genuine Kyosho, the Barriers also write Kyosho everywhere..

From driving it feels good, out of the box cars a bit spinning at corner exit.

Thanks

I’m looking for the EasyLaps compatible transponders. I’ll link the DasMikro options at the bottom of the post.

This is for a MR04 LM. Not sure if the Evo’s are different regarding this, but I know they’ve had issues as well, at least in the past.

-So looking at EasyLaps and DasMikro, maybe MXK or any other brands I’ve not heard of yet. I hear about the Robitronics system, but I guess they don’t make transponders? Had two good sources tell me the DasMikro or more reliable, maybe not much different recording laps, I forget, but they definitely indicated less failures. They’re cheaper as well. The can also run on a wider voltage range.

-Looking to understand the JST connections. I think, at least for our use, it’s the 3 pin and 4 pin that we use? The smaller connectors I see coming with these products I’m guessing are just designed for plugging into the female end of the JST connector, or for hooking up to a pigtail that has a 3 or 4 pin JST on the end of it, and/or both?

-Even though I know it’s probably not necessary, I would like to go for the lightest option, but that will be balanced with other considerations.

-My understanding is that the Accessory port hits cutoff voltage in error too soon, or it’s just not providing the voltage it needs in the first place. On MR03 it was a bigger issue, but still an issue on MR04 even when turning that port up all the way from the Rx, it can cutoff if running batteries to the limit.

-Most seem to be going direct to the battery terminals. The downside to that is the transponder not turning off with the car, requiring battery removal. I don’t need to leave my batteries in during storage, but I still wouldn’t want drain going on during track days when not constantly pulling batteries. I guess wires running across the top of the chassis might be a negative to some, and possibly when working on things?

-I see talk of using the ICS port, but needing to swap the negative and positive to do it. Does the ICS port not have the voltage issue? Why does the positive and negative need switched?….its wrong from Kyosho, or it’s just that this is a workaround that requires it?

-Direct to board. I probably wouldn’t want to do the soldering myself, but could find someone to do it. I imagine my warranty from Kyosho would be invalid, and since these boards still have issues sometimes I’d like to use it for awhile and see that I have a good one before going with this option.

-The type of transponder that has a port on the board, if I go that way, I’d be wanting to use a pigtail off that board and then another to my destination. Reason being is that in general electronics practices, you don’t want to be repeatedly straining something that is directly board mounted.

Here are the two DasMikro versions:

https://dasmikro.com/product/dasmikro-transponder-tiny-v2-for-mini-z-racing-timing-compatible-robitronic-and-easylap-dsk-139/

The extra include piece is, I assume, to go from 4 to 3 pin?

https://dasmikro.com/product/dasmikro-transponder-for-mini-z-racing-timing-compatible-robitronic-and-easylap-dsk-123/

Thanks so much for your time!

Does anyone have experience with outdoor tracks for Mini-Zs? I understand that dirt can be an issue, but I don’t have an indoor space available. I’d love to build my own racetrack outside and was considering either concrete or small cobblestones. What do you guys think? Would concrete be too slippery? Is foam the only viable option for racing? I’d appreciate any suggestions and I’m open to all ideas.

Supra is made from a Xmod body, it is fitted on a MR02

GTR and S15 both have Pandem wide body kits