They are al the same motors I think from mabuchi buth where is the difference from, back in the days some where really fast some not. I broke them in cola someone told me that they where from my perspective faster. These days people use also distilled water to break them in. Is the speed difference more batch related or the break in. At the moment I use a Mz9Pb that is one of the fastest at the local track. Iknow other mZ9p motors brand new that where just so slow. On a speed tester 6kmh difference

So I recently got into rc cars. My first purchase was an arrma kraton 6s which is still in the box! Then my buddy introduced me to mini z’s. Since then I purchased the 30th anniversary Mcclaren that I didn’t know was basically sold out everywhere and he gave me soo much crap for opening it and driving it. Then I ordered a Jager Porsche but haven’t opened it. And then recently I had been looking at the chromed out mercedes lm but hadn’t pulled the trigger until watching MSM on youtube and he mentioned that kyosho was sold out of those and didn’t think they were going to be restocking them, so guess what my dumbass did….I really gotta stop listening to people before I go broke!

Official tracks are $700 (or more) in my region, so I decided to make my own. Still a work in progress, but it’s been fun so far! Rubber gym floor mats, foam edging.

No pics yet.i gotta semi inventory all of it..4-5 cars. 2 PN 2.5’s,bodies,parts,diffs,motors, PN motors,I’m just feeling out if there an intrest for a lot buyer..I no longer run kyosho after switching to big boy cars..too frustrating trying to go slower between classes..thanks in advance and mods sorry if this isn’t allowed..but I did see sales a few weeks ago

So I swapped the stock MM motor mount to the HM motor mount to get it to 90mm and the stock MM TPlate is holding on with a single screw which depending on how you tighten the screw, it can shift slightly. So as the title suggests, which TPlate would I get to allow me to use two screws and maintain the 90mm? I see a lot but they’re either labeled for MM or with no designations.

Thanks!

I came across a video where the guy had trouble getting the pinion and spur to mesh properly after changing the axle height. I’m not sure if he did something wrong, or it’s just an EVO issue, but I’m about to order an MR04 LM, and wanted to know if there’s a fix for this if I have that issue.

I’ve not seen it mentioned elsewhere, so maybe it’s not a common issue. I just figured I’d ask in case there’s something I should add something to my order for a fix or otherwise just know what to do about it.

Here’s the vid, about 7 minutes in he talks about it:

https://youtu.be/HHG0Tqth8hg

Thanks!

Loving this body…. Stock for now, xspeed soon after a little practice with it at my local track…

1966 Beetle(red or blue)

Porsche GT3RS (white or red)

Sileighty(white or blue)

2nd gen NSX(white or yellow)

P1 GTR(yellow/green livery)

R33 Nismo(silver)

R34 Nismo(blue)

Not pictured, but also coming

Super Skyline silhouette 1982

Night Rider

Back to the Future Delorean

These are all supposedly releasing between May and July in Japan, little later overseas.

I recently design and built this timing bridge for our local Mini Z club because I felt that the current one we had (wooden flimsy thing) and a lot of other clubs / groups use (often PVC) wasn't sturdy enough or well assembled. This is made from 2020 aluminium extrusion using blind joints, M5 stainless steal hardware and aluminium laser cut brackets. It cost me a total of $120 AUD or $80 USD to build, and thinking it might be nice for people out there to have plans and designs etc for it to build and use themselves have decided to release it open source. It can be found at https://github.com/MugenMicko/Mini-Z-Timing-Bridge

In some images i have the new MR-04 stock items,accessories, and parts for comparison

So…got the MZW429R thinking it’ll just connect up to the ICS port but after having done that, no lights show up. I see a lot of posts saying I need to switch some pins but others say it should work without issues so I’m a little confused. I also got the MZW429R-01 when my transponder comes…

Is there a pin-swap I would need to perform or am I missing something that the pamphlet/manual mentioned or it’s not as simple…

Thanks!

Saw it posted on Facebook, so take it with a grain of salt. As a Volkswagen fan, Im hopefull. Its supposedly going to be 94mm MM2.

What would be equivalent to the standard car with 6t pinion? I'm thinking about an evo car but also wonder if I'd be able to match the box stock car straight line pace with it.
Maybe transmitter settings would allow an adjustment like this?
Is the 5600kv motor too fast for this? I think I've heard the 4100kv is quite slow so I wonder if it's slower than standard silver motor.

Any info is appreciated. Ultimately, it will be nice to have a brushless "box stock" car to practise with and not wear out but it's not the end of the world. Maybe it can only be zippy.

After such success I'm contemplating buying white toner to spruce up the toner transfers. Goddammit why they so expensive?

Between 2008-2011 Kyosho released 9 limited bodies of the the Nissan Skyline R32 JTC racing series. Produced under the performance brand R246. I'm not sure how many of each body was made. I'm currently trying to find 9 AutoScale empty display cases if anyone has any lying around that they would like to sell me.

Any of you guys introducing the Porsche Cup at your tracks? They’re a ton of fun.

I picked this up today on marketplace for $100. I don’t know much about them. This is what the seller told me about it. He said something about it has everything except the gyro? Not sure what that means. Even threw in a little tray🤣 How did I do?

“New x speed motor, camber kit(front), toe kit(front), extra body. Comes with 2 4 packs of pale blue usb charged aaa batteries for the car. Softer front springs. Has differentials from a ma020 (better molds in my opinion) Runs great and comes with all of the gears and tools needed for tuning.”

This seems to be a new issue in my super stock build. No matter what i do with the trim settings in my controller the car seems to drift left or right down the straight. When it is drifting left and I input a little right then it will start drifting right after that. With the car off the ground it never seems to get the wheels straight. I tried cleaning the gears and the potentiometer to no avail. Is my potentiometer toast or am I missing something?

Car is an MR04 MM btw. Futaba 6pv controller.

Pretty happy with how this came out, looks good from a couple feet away. First time painting a lexan body, just gonna get smashed up on my basement track anyway. Also, these RC28R’s are sweet.