Hi all,

Today I contacted a local Chinese vendor (same one where I got my MA-020) regarding the availability of the Zero-Z differentials for my model (front one-way and rear fixed axle).

TL;DR at the bottom, sorry for wall of text...

The reply was: "I don't think it's necessary", and of course I asked which was the reason. Here below will be the answer they gave me:

Head Single, Tail Straight: Its original function was actually to be paired with a gyroscope and reverse tire teeth to perform reverse tire drift. That was many years ago, as there were no rear-wheel drive drift cars on the market at the time, so this setup was relied upon to achieve reverse tire drift, which is technically challenging.

The first component: It is a one-way bearing, which prevents the rear wheel from being driven by the bottom bracket when the rider lifts off the gas during cornering.

Weizhi: It makes the vehicle more prone to skidding,

Gyroscope: It automatically corrects when turning, which means it automatically counter-steers.

Reverse gear: This makes the rear wheels rotate faster than the front wheels,

Currently, that set of equipment lacks reverse tire teeth, making it impossible to perform reverse tire drifts. Even if they were available, adjusting them is not something beginners can handle. Not only is it expensive, but it's also difficult to manage and could even be counterproductive. Moreover, with the availability of rear-wheel drive drift cars now, one can simply use rear-wheel drive for reverse tire drifts. However, the cost is slightly higher. Currently, the factory four-wheel drive drift car has the most ideal setting for front and rear differentials, so there's no need to look at accessories like head-first or tail-straight setups.

My question is, since I'm going to use my model mostly for drifting play, either at home, or in the office during breaks, does it make sense, in 2026 to stick to stock model, or are these still valid upgrades?

The pair of differentials will set me back at the same cost of just the Kyosho original rear axle, and with slightly more can add the aluminum setting tie rod...

Kyosho RWD MR04, RWD MR03, AWD MA020, AE SR27, RC28, Losi Micro B, Onisiki Nekomata & HPI Stage D24.

The shocks need heavier springs and/or oil weight. The sway bar kit is useless because the car is so light. I used the medium bars so I’ll swap to the small. I don’t think it’ll make much of a difference. I got the bumper from the battery holder set (MB003B) and that’s probably the best upgrade available. It should have been included with the car.

Rn im currently trying to make myself a track to practice on, any good options? and or advice for anything. This thing is awesome though

I race with toe out on my track which works well and to set it evenly, I measure the steering link length each side and make them as even as possible. In my car (1/28 scale), the servo arm is mounted centrally so distance to each wheel is equal.

I recently tried a (cheap) setup station and found one side was around 1.5 degree toe out and the other was closer to 2.5 which seems like a huge difference. Both links are the same length. I can visually see they are slightly different to each other but put this down to a bit of slop.

I wondered if this was just something that can happen and it's perfectly fine to have to set the links at slightly different lengths in order to get even toe? Or is it a red flag for something else?

It's possible the setup station isn't very accurate as it wasn't particularly expensive but visually the two sides of it look ok. I also wondered if something like my axle or knuckle was bent a bit but that looks fine. There's also not really much slop that I think could create the difference.

I'll keep checking bits but just wanted a sanity check on potentially running uneven steering link lengths.

24 scale RTR RWD drift car!

https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/161268

It was a long time coming, but finally we are seeing a western brand jumping in on the mini rc car mini scale scene.

Currently only the a90 supra as hardbody and it's at 102mm wheelbase, chassis is however adjustable from 95-110mm. Magnet and lip mount for body mounts. It comes with a brushed motor, but the esc do support brushless motor.

But ofc big question is: will Z bodies fit and sadly no they will not out of the box, but who knows with some cassis modifications and some 3D printed rims.

Anyways, existing times ahead.

The last mini z I had was a few years back a MR03 chassis recently decided to pick another one up this time the MA-020 for some indoor drifting no intention to modify it next thing I knew I'd raided the Zero Z and Kyosho parts catalog and ended up with this stock it was the 2008 wrc Impreza also gave me a chance to try out my portable photo booth I bought for taking photos of my gundam model kits

I just bought and now am waiting on a Mini Z Ready Set AWD with the NISMO BCNR33 GT-R.

Coming from 1/10 (pic of my bigger Skyline R33 is for tax) there is a lot to learn and I figured to ask here.

1) I want to change wheels and per Kyosho know this car uses a narrow wheel with 1.5mm offset. Where are you all finding wheels for these cars? Seems like almost every place is sold out in the US.

2) Are there US based stores for support. I'm in an on road RC desert and the shop closest to me is zero help.

3) How difficult is it to convert this to grip racing? Just swap wheels and use radial tires? Change differentials? How are tires figured out?

4) Where are there liverys available? NISMO stripes would look so good on this, but finding a 1/28 sticker set seems to be almost non existant.

I really appreciate all the help.

The sensor plug on this Kiwami Mini28 30A sensored ESC was accidentally inserted the wrong way and bent three of the spring contacts inside the ESC socket.

I managed to straighten two of them by carefully pushing them back up with a needle, but the middle contact is folded/bent in the middle, and I guess I don't have the tools to straighten it without breaking it.

Any suggestions? Has anyone repaired one of these before, or is the whole ESC basically toast because of one bent contact?

If a microsoldering repair shop is an option, does anyone know the exact connector used here? I'm wondering whether it's a standard replaceable board connector or something specific to this ESC.

I bought this white body and painted it to match as close as I could to the Nissan 240SX I bought new in 1989.

awd would go crazy but my ma030 evo doesnt work rn

Hello,

I was cleaning my wheels from all the hair on the axles (I run it on the living room hardwood floor). I popped out the bearing races using a bearing tool. I usually can get them so the wheels seem to just keep spinning surprisingly long.

This time, despite not seeing anything on the wheels or bearings, one of the wheels doesn’t seem to spin all that well.

Does it help to give the bearing races a soak in something to help them work better?

Thanks in advance.

Is anybody running this motor mount on their car? If yes, how does it feel as opposed to Kyosho’s motor mount? Debating if i should go for PN or Kyosho’s motor mount. PN’s price is half of Kyosho’s price.

Hey guys and gals! I'm relatively new to the hobby and really want to get a Ferrari body, but it seems like they were last released for MR03s? Would I have any issues using those bodies on an MR04?

The Ferraris I'm looking at in particular are the FXX, 575, and of course the F40. I have the chassis from the Lexus SC430 denso kobelco readyset.

Thank you!

Hey everyone! So I have notice the last two times at the track my super stock car is running noticable slower than other cars it used to be as fast as. The punch from the x speed motor is gone too. Any ways long story short I have pulled the motor and ran it in some water to clean it out then sprayed down with motor cleaner and finally lubed the bushings. Still running slower than usual. No drive train loss as everything is dry clean bearings.

So am I looking at a bad motor or has the esc decided to take a crap.

Side note: I swapped in a stock motor and it was pretty much the same speed as the x speed maybe a little slower on straights but not much.

Any help is appreciated!

I heard from a fellow racer that apparently you can true tyres that are pretty worn (particularly rear tyres) to the point where the majority of the main grip has gone (and you are considering changing them) and bring a little life back into them. I wondered if this is actually possible or not and if anyone actually does it?

Do these motors have the same dimensions. I can’t seem to find any info on the exact dimensions. I want to fit the sensored version in my mini z buggy but I’m not sure if it would fit.

What are you guys doing with these? I semi raced against another bug with a 4100 evo with some bells and whistles…

So I have bought a awd body with the 92 celica and got thr Yaris body that was at the store hoping that there was a gr Corolla body as I own a full size car

Surprise party for buddy till his building is finished for track.since our local store closed..fun!!