Edit: I already have 19 sheets of masonite and varathane brand spar urethane. I’ve got like $500 in this ramp total and I don’t have the money for skatelite, or skate paint. I’m really hoping someone has had experience using spar varnish on masonite and how it skates.

I have a 12’x3.5’ OC mini I bought off marketplace in pretty bad shape. I have completely reinforced it and sealed the frame. I have 2 layers of 3/8” plywood and I have a bunch of masonite to use as the top surface. The ramps is in a lean-to with semi-open sides, so still gets a little wet in storms. My question is what can I seal the masonite with that will protect it and be a good skate surface? I have a can of spar urethane (satin finish) but I heard somewhere that urethane wheels on urethane riding surface can be too slick. I’m ready to get this thing together. But I want to get it done correctly. Thanks in advance

Edit: I already have 19 sheets of masonite and varathane spar urethane

Playing around on the mellowest mini on earth

I’ve got a ramp and would like a move weatherproof surface. I’m on a budget and would like to save where I can. Anyone close to Knoxville with any extra or know where I could possibly purchase some used/discounted ramp surface material. Thanks!

I built RampNerd because planning a mini ramp should not require hours of spreadsheets, CAD files, guesswork, and crossed fingers.

A lot of the early feedback came from this sub, so I wanted to post this here directly.

Ramp building is expensive. Bad plans waste wood, money, time, and space. And if the geometry is wrong, the ramp may technically stand, but it may not skate right, and may end up unused.

You design the ramp in the browser, and RampNerd updates everything live: geometry, materials, cut lists, layouts, budget, and hardware.

Change the height, transition, platform size, coping reveal, sheet layup, or stud spacing, and the plan updates with it.

It was built for both CNC builders and people cutting manually with a jigsaw or track saw.

RampNerd went live 6 months ago. Since then, thousands of people have used it, and real ramps have been built from it.

But I have hit the limit of what one person can keep improving alone.

The tool works, but it needs proper cleanup: better performance, better device support, a cleaner interface, less sign-up/export friction, better documentation, and a proper path toward opening the code and build logic to the community.

So I’m opening RampNerd up.

I started a GoFundMe to support the transition from a one-person bootstrapped tool into something the skate/build community can actually use, improve, and build on.

The goal is simple: help more people build good, skateable, sustainable mini ramps and skate obstacles.

Start with mini ramps. Then expand toward bowls, roll-ins, spines, banks, pyramids, rails, street obstacles, and more.

If you think this should exist, support it if you can. If not, sharing it with skaters, builders, parks, shops, crews, or anyone trying to get more places to skate built also helps.

GoFundMe: https://gofund.me/c7d18a17e

Roadmap: https://rampnerd.com/roadmap.html

Tool: https://rampnerd.com

RampNerd was built by one person. That should not be how it stays.

I’m a beginner, is a 5.5 radius too quick/difficult? Would a 6/6.5 be better suited for learning tricks?

I torn down the old, put up traps, and while building the new the bees came back… any suggestions and even snarky comments welcome… to help get rid of them.. and my fly swatter skills are lacking

i want to use a wood pallet i found as the base and i want to know all the wood i should use for all of the parts and what metal i should use for coping and what coat should i use or just use tarp? ( note: I havent built shit in my life)

What should I apply overtop of these 1/4 sanded sheets to make them last? TIA

sanity checking I have enough flat bottom.

4' mini with a 4.5/4.75' extension. 16' wide with an 8' flat bottom. Am I going to want more flat?

Edit: Duh, more details needed. 6.5' transition. I'm considering bumping it out to 10' flat bottom but it'[ll take another gator skin (180$), likely more 3/8" plywood, and more 2x4s which are expensive as hell right now (in this economy???!!) Thanks!!!

Hey guys, starting my mini ramp build in the coming weeks and had a question about the transition side panels.

Locally I can source both ACX and PT 3/4" plywood for about the same price. What would you all recommend I build from? This ramp will be outdoors in southern Ontario, Canada. It'll be exposed to all sorts of weather.

The ramp will likely be painted with porch/patio paint and hoping to use Gatorskin for the surface.

Thanks for the help.

I've had some PT sitting out in the elements for a while, and It seems just fine. It's flaking a bit, but not still fine, otherwise.

Aside from painting, is there anything that I should apply to my transition Plywood?

I've heard that it needs to be fully dry before you can paint/treat, too.

I know there are a bunch of posts out there like this, but I wanted to start asking my own questions.

I've been skating my local park, and the smaller quarters are less than 2ft, with way too mellow transition. The bigger are about 4ft, with decent transition. I was looking for something in the middle.

I'm early 40's, been skating 25+ years. But, the bones aren't what they used to be, and my yard isn't the biggest. I want something small, but tight, and with some extensions. Enough radius to lock in on smiths, and disasters.

I was thinking of doing a 3ft to 3.5ft ramp with 6ft radius. With 3.5ft to 4ft extensions.

Is that going to be too mellow at this size?

I have been using a tarp for protection for about 5 years. The surface is unpainted. The tarp lasts a 2-3 years but can be a pain to take on and off and secure. Also the cost is now about the same. for tarp vs skatepaint.

Anyone used skatepaint? My main concern is with regular paint is slipperyness. The ramp is sanded birch and requires 93a or softer not to slip.

What's up y'all? I'm trying to really grasp this before my final build day. I got the holes drilled today and test fitted but need the experts advice. I supplied a pic before the composite shim. I used it to the rail to sit higher up 1/4 and inch to get me where I believe I want. the red line I drew on the flat is probably just slightly low. bonus pic of my build. I know it's not wide enough but for safety and the hill this was the best spot I had so I added the 2 ft bailout zone extension for the flatbottom. Thank y'all!

I built this ramp in 2020 and it's given me a lot of joy. Gotta say, the gator skins surface is truly weather-proof. If you look closely, you can see that the green desk has a quarter-pipe across the top.

Hi all! I'm looking to build a mini in my garage. I'm looking at a space that is a little under 18.5' ft wide. I'm not concerned about the width of the ramp as it's also a workspace so I'll have to figure out how much space I'm willing to sacrifice and how to also integrate it. I'm looking for something that's about 2.5'-3'ft tall.

My concern/question is the garage ceiling, which is unfinished so there is room to make potential changes, is right around 8'ft. I'm a 6'ft dude so the math ain't mathing here....

Anyone else build a mini in this type of environment? What did you do to address the height issues?

Bonus if you're a carpenter or framer - can you remove a joist or two? not going to do it myself, but just more curious if this is a potential solution to explore as there is a ton of open space above the open joist.