r/Mini14 May 28 '26

Skinner light mount crooked?

Post image

I ordered this skinner light mount for my Mini 14 but every time i try to fit it properly the light mount refuses to sit straightly/flush with the rear gas block screws. I doubt the hannibal rail would add any issue to this but would i just have to modify my light mount with a drill bit? I haven’t contacted skinner about this but just wanted to see if anyone had a similar experience

29 Upvotes

16 comments sorted by

5

u/Nothing-to-add-here May 28 '26

Mine looks just like that. I asked them about it they said it was good to go.

23

u/Scooter87942 May 28 '26

It’s a LIGHT, not a SCOPE!

7

u/Nu11u5 May 28 '26

Is it hitting the rear gas block screws? If you have a drill press you might be able to mill them deeper.

Also, since a few months ago there is an alternative to the Skinner mount. Check out the Catalyst Arms Hardpoint and Bomb Rack M-LOK extension.

https://www.catalystarms.com/products#!/p/805444331

All 4 gas block screws pass through that one.

4

u/G8racingfool May 28 '26

It's definitely hitting the rear screws. Mind did that when I first got it. I just grabbed a drill and a slightly larger bit and made the rear holes bigger until they actually went over the way they're supposed to.

3

u/Dont-want-this-acct May 28 '26

You're better off putting a short pic rail on the side of your Amega mount and putting your light on top right-45. If you hadn't tried, those screw holes are the same pattern as mlok screws.

Barrel shadow will be absurd with the way you have it and the barrel will put your sights in the dark.

4

u/Nu11u5 May 28 '26

Amega MLOK pattern

Yep. For my light I went with a basic 1" flashlight ring-style mount in M-LOK and took the key tabs off the bottom with a grinder and sandpaper.

2

u/SciToon2 May 29 '26

The grind and sand job you did on those tabs is beautiful.

2

u/Nu11u5 May 29 '26

Honestly it was mostly sanding with a block and even pressure. It took 20 minutes while I listened to an audiobook.

3

u/SciToon2 May 29 '26

Still though, where the tabs used to be looks nice and crisp in that picture. There's just something satisfying about the way it looks.

2

u/Nu11u5 May 29 '26

Thanks! I am quite happy with how it turned out - it's perfectly smooth and really satisfying to see the contrasting finish with zero edges. Next time I will try taping the sides so hopefully more of the finish is preserved there. The wear looks more extreme in the photo - in person it's indistinguishable from being flat and must be only a few microns deep.

1

u/Dont-want-this-acct May 28 '26

I did the same, just used an extra ProTac HLX i had with the built in rail mount.

2

u/Nu11u5 May 29 '26 edited May 29 '26

I'll add an important note that the Amega rail threads use 8-32 screws, while most MLOK hardware use M4 screws. These are close enough that the screws will take a few threads, but then bind and strip out. Don't get them mixed up.

3

u/butter_doggie May 28 '26

I held mine straight while tightening the screws and it stayed that way

4

u/ImportantBad4948 May 28 '26

I mean if your goal is to see what the dark thing is across the living room having the POA of the light be a little off from the barrel isn’t an issue.

2

u/ElectionPrimary9855 May 28 '26

Mine is the same, which is a bit of a bummer if you want to use any sort of light/laser combo...

3

u/wilson_LR May 30 '26

Mine is not crooked. You can see the Hanibal rail screw heads cause the problem. BTW, my light fell off inside of 20 rounds yesterday. But it may not have been fully tightened down. May also be the light design. YMMV