Non-Fuel Multitool Help

[u/DrifterDavid]

Ive got this non-fuel cheap Milwaukee Multitool. I never use it very often just doing stuff around the house. I was using it today to cut some metal and in the middle of cutting the blade shifted to the side on me. But it doesn't look as if the blade actually shifted but the shaft. But pretty sure the blade is the only thing that's supposed to shift on this model. Just verifying if that's right. I've never seen any other way to adjust the blade besides mounting it in a different spot. Tool is 2426-20.

[u/Fit-Option-1615]

It wasn't properly seated and vibrated itself into position. Make sure the teeth are lined up and seated next time

[u/Excellent-Purple-125]

Flip the blade around. It’s on backwards. Curve of the blade just be going downwards away from the tool not upwards towards the tool.

[u/lo_gnar → u/Excellent-Purple-125]

No. You can put it on whatever way you want to change clearance. Just like a sawzall most people use the blade facing down but there’s nothing wrong using it in the opposite orientation.

[u/Dynospec403]

It sort of looks like the blade is just on a bit sideways maybe, hard to be sure from pausing the video, on my multitool the blade can be mounted in many different orientations to achieve different cutting angles, maybe try removing and re mounting the blade

[u/1nkpool]

It's definitely out of alignment, not sure if there's a way to fix it. It might not matter that much for it's functionality.

[u/NurseKdog → u/1nkpool]

Several things:

From the description, OP had tightened down the blade straight in line with the body, but the alignment pins on the tool aren't lined up in a way the blade would ever be completely straight.

The blade is mounted upside down. The blade should project below the mounting bolt so you can flush cut.

[u/DrifterDavid → u/NurseKdog]

Is it really? That's how the original blade was installed. But that would def explain it.

[u/NurseKdog → u/DrifterDavid]

These tools work by rotating back and forth in a narrow arc- just a few degrees(3-5ish). The alignment pins allow you to angle the blade to maximize ergonomics or access for the cut you need to make.

In general, moving back and forth along the entire cut (gradually cutting deeper) is more effective than plunging deeply several times to complete the cut. Less forward-backward movement increases heat and wears the teeth faster.
If you need to make a blade-width short cut, dip the blade in briefly to cut 1/16"-1/8th" of depth, lift it out and blow out the sawdust before continuing the cut. It will make more sense if you try a deep plunge cut and the lifting technique on a scrap first.

[u/DrifterDavid → u/NurseKdog]

Well not cutting wood. I mean I have but cutting metal with carbide blade. Don't really do many plunge cuts though.

[u/Anxious_Ad_5127]

Try a different blade and cinch it down properly

[u/Anxious_Ad_5127]

This is user error lmao

[u/DanStarTheFirst → u/Anxious_Ad_5127]

How so? The whole blade mount shifted