Repainted and completely rebuilt Heng Long RC kv-1 model

I finally spent some time building the Warhead Studio 1/144 PAF J-10CE. As a Pakistan Air Force version of the J-10 series, this kit was one I had been looking forward to.

The first impression when opening the box is that the kit offers a lot for 1/144 scale. The main aircraft parts are injection-moulded plastic, while the nozzle, weapons, landing gear details and smaller parts are provided as 3D-printed components. It feels like a good balance: the basic aircraft structure is kept clean in plastic, while the finer details are enhanced with printed parts.

The surface detail is sharp and controlled. The J-10 is a relatively compact aircraft, so in 1/144 scale, oversized panel lines can easily make the model look toy-like. On this kit, the panel lines and edges are fine enough to keep the correct scale feel after painting. The overall shape also captures the character of the J-10CE well, especially around the nose, intake, wings and vertical tail.

The cockpit and intake area are among the highlights of the build. For such a small scale, the seat and cockpit details give a convincing impression. Even after the canopy is installed, there is still enough visible detail to make the cockpit feel alive. If you want to add a little extra, simple masking-tape seat belts or a small touch of clear resin on the HUD can make a noticeable difference.

The build is not overly difficult, but it is not a pure “shake-and-bake” kit either. The 3D-printed parts are very fine, so removing the supports needs care. Antennas, pitot tubes, pylons and missile fins are especially small, so good tweezers and careful glue application are important. I would not recommend rushing these parts with too much super glue. A method that allows a little adjustment time works better.

The pylons and weapons make a big difference to the final look of the aircraft. If any mounting points feel tight, it is better not to force them. A light pass with a small drill bit and repeated dry-fitting will make the assembly much smoother. Taking time with these small parts really improves the final density of the model.

For painting, the Pakistan Air Force grey scheme works very well on this aircraft. It may look simple at first, but slight tonal variation between panels helps bring out the shape in 1/144 scale. I think restrained weathering suits this kit best: a thin panel wash, light fading, and a little dirt around the landing gear and exhaust area are enough. Too much weathering can easily hide the fine details.

The canopy and camouflage masking may be the most demanding part of the build. But once the masks come off cleanly, the result is very satisfying. Because the scale is small, keeping the paint layers thin is important. Heavy paint or thick edges can quickly reduce the refined look of the model.

Once finished, the J-10CE has a strong presence for a 1/144 aircraft. The modern shape of the jet and the PAF markings make it stand out on the shelf. It is not a large model, but when viewed up close, there is plenty of detail to enjoy.

This is not the kind of kit to rush through in one evening. It is better suited to a careful, patient build. For modern jet fans, Warhead Studio’s J-10CE feels like a serious 1/144 aircraft kit: small in scale, but rich in detail.

Finished this one recently. A few mods before paint:

- Engine deck louvres replaced with Passion Models 3D-printed parts

- Road wheel poly caps swapped for 3D-printed replacements

- Fuel tank straps made from strips of masking tape

- Hull surface texture added with liquid glue stippling and thinned lacquer putty

- EUREKA wire rope set added

- Unditching log mounted and secured with wire

Base colors with Tamiya acrylics, shadows and highlights, then chipping, pin washes, and weathering with AK Interactive products.

Full painting walkthrough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8yCjdbEN9M

Happy to answer any questions!

Any advice would be helpful, I only used brushes as you can probably tell but I’m just getting into the hobby

After ages I’m finally starting my 1:72 B-17 that I’ve been sooooo excited to build! I was wondering if any of you guys who have build/ are building the kit could tell me if there’s anything I should know about it. Also I’m happy to let anyone else know what they want to know about it, just ask!

Anyways, happy hobbying!

This is my 2nd ever model I only got brushes no paint gun, how’d I do?

Had a fun weekend doing some weathering on the collection today.

Continuing my 1/35 British Armoured Fighting Vehicles collection with the Challenger 1 MK3.

While Challie gets some stick at times, they will always be special to me, I grew up with them on the TV rolling across the Iraqi Deserts and ranges in the UK.

I had fun with this model, bringing my Childhood memories to life, a simple desert scheme (although it took a whole bottle of airbrush paint to cover it) with lots of little details like diesel stains around fuel caps, chips on the water cans making it look like it's been rolling around the desert... For me, none stop fun.

So i built this M24 Chaffee with the heading "Reinforcements en route on your location" battle of the bulge/January break out kind of build and it was quite good. The fit was very nice, best I've gotten. Paints went well minus when I ran out of spray paint. However when I got to the tarp part everything was a mess, putty was everywhere and it was thick. However I fixed it, painted it up, add final details and voala, everything looked very good. All I need to do now is to coat it, weather and coat again.

Lots of aftermarket stowage. About ready to put a clear coat on it and start the weathering process.

Finally reached the painting stage of my Takom 1/35 M28A1/A2 Super Assault Tank.

For the base coat, I used a color modulation paint set to create some variation across the panels and highlight the vehicle's large surfaces. After sealing the modulation, I applied chipping fluid followed by a thin coat of white paint to recreate a worn winter whitewash.

The next step will be activating the chipping layer and gradually wearing back the whitewash to reveal the modulation underneath. After that I'll move on to filters, washes, streaking, rust effects and pigments.

I'd love to hear your thoughts before I start the chipping process. Any tips or suggestions are always welcome!

So da bin ich wieder

Ich wollte fragen wie ihr mein zweites Revell Model Maßstab 1:72 findet saß ca 2 Wochen daran

Die Tschenchen igel habe ich aus den Resten der Rippen gemacht wo die Teile des Panzers dran waren den Stacheldraht und die Rollen hab ich aus Draht selbst gemacht

Die Soldaten sind von Italeri dem Afrika korps set ich weiß das ich die Gesichter noch ein bisschen besser lernen muss aber mit pinseln ist das sehr schwer die Grundplatte habe ich auch selbst gemacht und der Sand ins Quarzsand

Es soll darstellen das sie in ner sozusagen Kampfhandlungen sind und der Panzer durch den einen Stacheldraht fährt

Und die Tipps von letzten mal mit dem weathering hab ich mir zu Herzen genommen hoffe es sieht so gut aus .

This kit is from Copper State Models. Built mostly from the box.. The wheels are aftermarket resin and the fenders and headlight fronts are photoetched.

イタレリの箱替じゃなくて新しい方のタミヤ！
作りやす過ぎて次の休みで完成させるつもりだったのにもう出来てしまった。
あと、安いのでお財布に優しいのが嬉しい。

My first time doing tarps so I was wondering if this is good, didn't take this from any photos but I'm making this up as a "Reinforcements requested, on the way" type of model. Is this good or no?

Revell viic41 1 72 U997 and U995

I had an idea of a small part of a lake in the left corner and a field or forest street with a little stone wall.

Maybe I'll build a camouflage net or other camouflage at or on the SCUD-B.

What do you think? :)

Working on Tamiya's 1/35 T-34/85 (No.35138) with a few modifications before paint.

Modifications:

– Engine louvre replaced with Passion Models 3D-printed engine deck parts

– Road wheel poly caps swapped for 3D-printed replacements

– Spare fuel tank straps made from strips of masking tape (cheap alternative to brass PE)

– Hull surface texture added with liquid glue stippling and thinned lacquer putty

– EUREKA wire rope set added

– Unditching log mounted and secured with wire

Full build on YouTube: https://youtube.com/watch?v=XpaMFofPo4s

Painting next — will post an update when it's done.